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  1. I prefer MDF, but painted either battleship grey or sage green. Be sure to fit it before you finish landscaping and landscape over the top edge. Where I have an elevation on the front edge of a board I always make sure I have timber or plywood supports to hold the front edging in place. I only edge to the bottom of the baseboard, never to the ground as it denies access to wiring under the board. If I need to cover the underside of the board I use curtains.
  2. PMW

    Tartan paint !

    I believe it's the same company who make long weights
  3. ditto, though I don't do much bending but have found this to be an excellent option.
  4. Personally I never like using a template to mark out, use a marking gauge. Determine the height of your sides and ends and run the marking gauge around all four edges of the board to get your cut lines, you can run a pencil in the score line then to highlight them. Use a straight edge then to guide your saw. You can buy saw guides but large ones capable of dealing with 8' sheets can be expensive. You mention this is a prototype, if you are making a lot of these I would consider making a jig which would allow you to repeat accurate cuts time after time I as
  5. I gave that a like because there is no Jealous emoji .....
  6. I've spent this afternoon starting the baseboards for Wavenham, I had earmarked today to get them done but got sidetracked this morning. four boards will make the layout, made from 25mm chipboard with two inch strips as bracing. Weather permitting that will get finished tomorrow and then hopefully we'll have some photos of the bare boards ready to go. I have also prepared the arduino with the latest DCC++ Ex variant ready to do some testing, and the DCC sound chip for the A3 came today, plus a Lais chip for the Class 08. so hopefully by the end of the weekend we will have some track down, and
  7. 40w minimum, interchangeable tips, temperature control. brand is not so important. I use a Chinese 998D soldering station with hot air reflow gun with airflow and temp control and 50w iron with heat control and changeable tips. It does everything I need it to do, produces nice clean joints and has improved my soldering dramatically over the 25w Wilko cheapie I used to have.
  8. So: Up lines and down lines. Having designed my layout (several times, and still tinkering) is there a common standard on which track runs which way? For example on a mainly twin loop layout is it outer loop clockwise, inner loop clockwise or is there no set practice? It will effect where I place crossovers of course. Watching Chadwick last night it seems that three way points are not always reliable. I don't have any but did think about investing in one, just to branch the tracks in my fiddle yard in a shorter length. Any comments on them? The one thing my
  9. PMW


    The decision on baseboard has been made, or rather made for me. I have spent the last couple of days repainting the factory floor before the agent comes to photograph it next week, and on top of the office I have found three unused rack shelves, nine foot by three foot three inch thick chip board. So that came home last night, sadly the weather is closing in so no chance to cut it today, will get that done on Monday all being well, there should be enough strips from taking it down to the desired width to make the cross braces to hold the four finished pieces that will make up the
  10. That's very useful as I will be looking to add an analogue throttle with a rotary at some point. PC control will suffice for a start, especially as due to the logistics of the layout there is one defined control station, there is no facility to walk around so a wireless throttle is pointless, but there is the possibility of a more capacious location on the horizon where a walk around throttle will be really useful.
  11. I've been watching a number of YouTube channels recently, catching up on what's new and getting hints and tips and have found a number of very interesting channels. Chadwick and Tom Kvichak to name a couple of the better ones but I wanted to give a special shout out to Little Wicket. I had already decided that control of Wavenham will be DCC++ via arduino and watched the Tom's Trains and Things videos relating to arduinos, both basic coding and model railway related but Little Wicket has taken the subject and presented it in a language and at a level that anybody, even I, can unde
  12. but it isn't, unless the contacts have been very highly polished the actual connection between the two is much less than the total surface area. Conductive grease fills the tiny gaps between the contacts to ensure current can flow freely across the whole contact and eliminates arcing which is a major source of heat at terminals. Hopefully so, but every review I read tells me how rubbish fish plates are at passing current. My layout will be DCC++ at 2a I'll run some tests during the week to see what I decide to do.
  13. it does in my language .... plus the sheer volume of wiring under the baseboard would be hideous. I may not have chance tomorrow but sometime this week I shall do some tests on resistance across a typical block without then with grease and look at the results.
  14. With over 300 pieces of sectional track droppers to each one is not an option. With the need for thermal expansion neither is soldering, I always use a feeler gauge to leave a gap of 1/32" between tracks. By my very rough calculation a 26 foot loop of nickel silver track has the capacity to expand by more than an inch with a ten degree temperature change, and it will be subject to changes of at least that. There are conductive greases that are very highly conductive, more so than solid copper strand. I used to use it in the line of business, and using such products on me
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