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Ighten

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Everything posted by Ighten

  1. Could a secondPower Hornby power bank be added to those then RAF
  2. Some of these exorbitant fees from the US are simply because the seller forgot to turn off international and eBay went to default.. You can walk into any towns FedEx store and buy a shipping box with air for a fraction of these costs fully insured.
  3. Is there a reason you need to know the exact voltage.....cheaper to Just get a simple proses voltage checker.. doesn't tell u the exact DCC voltage but does indicate if it's a bit low. 9.99 from your model shop
  4. Hm7000 has no function mapping or for really complex lighting no swiss mapping
  5. My Personal experience was that I started last spring (I think) using Hornby hm7000 system.. for a good price it introduced me to the benefits of DCC and also how sound made such a difference. Now several months later and things have changed. Pretty much the first thing I fell out with was the fact (quite a major one) it won't fit most of my smaller stock or indeed mid and larger locos from other manufacturers. Indeed there are Hornby models I either can't fit it into too or there is no intention of making 6 pin sound variants. There's also the issue that 8 pin variants are quite function shy. Profile releases also seem slow; I expect slow now because it does seem Hornby have a small team and want to keep everything in house. But sorry I'm not that patient, especially when you consider they will likely concentrate on there own catalogue first. But it was cheap and a great introduction. Moving on to a show in autumn I came across the bargain DMG DC/DCC controller which I still use on a test layout and this immediately convinced me a physical controller is way better than having to keep looking down at a phone screen. It works perfectly has a walk around style control but it does have limitations. Hence the now installed powercab. My surmise with regard to that original question then is No, traditional DCC is not being replaced yet, certainly not by Hornby s offering which I think should be considered as a fantastic cheap introduction, if somewhat limited. It's big big advantage though is the ability to see and change the CVS on the fly on a screen.
  6. Tried every f Raf with no change/success.. I have similar locos to the electrotren and this is when it is helpful to use some remapping so 1 key will do multiple commands. Zimo 8 pin plopped in and worked first time as usual..ie switches itself logically with rev and fwd.. so I'm slightly baffled.. I just tried the hm7000 in a 59 and that works perfectly so I'm still confused.
  7. Don't really mind the low key off it all, didn't really expect much more .My biggest disappointment I suppose is the lack of a BR blue bo bo and zero news about HM7000 sound projects other than finishing the list we have which is already too limited to make the system of any interest to most people.
  8. Powercab.. have not tried taking the stay alive off.. it was a pain to find space to fit lol. But at least it's just an unplug so I'll try.. I have someone bringing a zimo non sound 8 pin over tomorrow so we'll see what that shows. Tbh at the rate Hornby release profiles I can't see them getting to a 35 anytime in the near future unless they open up to third party's so if the zimo works fine I may just order a sound version from you choos
  9. #1 west.. forward(up line).. headcode lights working(only).. on further inspection no tail lights. #1 west... Reverse(down) . No lights at all. #2 west.. forward(up).. headcode lights working(only). no tail lights. #2 west .. reverse(down). No lights at all. In other words we are sending the loco off to do the same movement regardless of which cab is forward. But we only get a headcode light on for forward movement. I haven't tested yet what would happen if I was to change CV 29 to reverse the directions. I'm wondering Does the EFE have some mapping the hm7000 can't handle.
  10. This does depend how your running it. I actually have to turn the brightness CV setting down by half on DCC it's way to bright..
  11. This one's baffling me. EFE class 35 lights fine when running forward. No flickering and I haven't touched cv29. I'm on128 speed steps Reverse direction rear lights out but no front lights come on. Reverse again back to the orig direction and front lights come back on. Pick up loco and spin it 180 degrees and put back on track.. exactly same happens .. so it's not the (bulb in this case not led) Hm7000 tsx decoder 8 pin speaker and stay alive fitted
  12. Sad.. the genesis was a superb concept. I must admit I had stopped using them for the simple reason I found the website just so user unfriendly. On the other hand the stock post box(trunk) idea was one of the best ideas in mail order. And they always answered the phone.
  13. True... Any company with half a marketing brain should have jumped on that last year. Instead we got a purple fictional railroad 66
  14. I have my CV 127 high at around 75 if not higher depending on the motor, in conjunction with some other CV settings and speed curves I have it so even from notch one (about speed step 7 you can have a nice realistic brake stop).. one thing I do notice though if you use it in conjunction with cv28(the auto thingy) the manual seems to indicate you should be getting brake squeal, but I never hear this diesel or steam.
  15. Is that like this one... Anyone have a good link how it all fits together. Only stay Alives I'm used to are hm7000 😂 lol https://www.digitrains.co.uk/zimo-high-power-stay-alive.html
  16. Thanks... Those settings do seem to show some improvement especially turning acceleration and deceleration off weirdly. It does now constantly stutter for a second on point frogs (which are all live ) so it must be as one wheel actually straddles the gap ; which makes me think the others need an axle brush soak to try to clean inside the split chassis. I have already cleaned an excess of brown grease out of the gears.
  17. I have been slowly changing everything over to DCC on the layout and anything with a 3 or 5 pole motors is working like a dream.. Even Ring fields I converted myself are running perfectly at all crawling speeds.. This DJ models BR41xx though is an entirely different story.. I have finally got into it and cleaned it out and checked space for adding stay Alives but the big issue is it won't even run properly on a straight bit of clean track.. it's just start stop start randomly as it attempts to get from A,B. The current decoder is a Bachmann 6 pin 36- 568A which is a zimo chip.. now I have already changed CV 56 to 155 as Zimo suggest for coreless and that made little difference.. pushing it to 255 seems to have improved it slightly it now only stops every 1 foot and starts again instead of every 3 inches. Is this chip just no use on a coreless motor (which seems pathetically small). Other things I have tried are checking it still runs fine on DC, it does. .. pushed CV 2 to 44 just to give it some oomph... Turned DC off.. I couldn't find any capacitors anywhere to cut off on this motor, they are either hidden inside the motor or it never had them (do coreless not need them). Anyone recommend a 6 pin DCC that loves coreless or am I missing something obvious.
  18. Think I will definitely be using lazerglaze on the next project.
  19. The biggest improvement is you remove the shelf on the window sill which on limbs is about a scale 6 ft I 🤔 think. Joking aside I find they are an improvement but have to be handled with care.. cut too close and you discolour due to straining the thin plastic.. you can see the edge if you look closely so marker pen for me next time.. do not use more glue than a pin prick .. you do get plenty of spares though.. they can be prone to creasing so handle with care.. Here's a 47 under progress awaiting etched blades. Sorry it's a bit distant and I don't have a before and after but hopefully it shows both the improvements in flushness but also some of the shortfalls
  20. It would be a crime because. I have no need for it Don't need it Absolutely don't need it Damn ... ordering it and running for president to pardon myself later.
  21. Solved the no movement problem ... Not sure how but my CV2 and 5 had changed and my acceleration was super super super slow.. not suitable for the motor I was using . All good now
  22. I'm guessing some comes down to the processing speed of your phone - or is that what your saying Just putting the 47 back on one of my 47s and it came up 26 mins before dropping to 9. But now I have a further problem..I seem to have sound but no movement. Same on Bluetooth and DCC.. I think I have mucked something up as I start to move everything over to just DCC (a knob 😳 does make a whole lot of difference ) . Is there a simple way of resetting this chip without constantly re downloading profiles
  23. Superb edition.. picked it up from Smith's in Bury who had a staggering 20 copies.. the cover really made it jump to the front I agree Ps I'm writing this being pulled by Leander through the Irwell valley wiping away a sml tear as I missed out on a footplate ride back by 2 mins.😂
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