Lek

Firstly, I would like to say I could not find a loco specific forum, so please feel free to move to the relevant forum if needed. If however, this is the correct forum for loco discussion, please let me know also, as I would like to discuss more about model locos than most other topics. Often when a freshly painted or buffed HST pulls in to the station, there is a magical sheen, almost mirror like, you can see all the panelling imperfections due to the glossy nature. However, all the OO locos I own have a matt/silk finish, not glossy like the real trains. I'm wondering if any manufacturer makes locos and carriages with a glossy finish? If not, is there anything I can do to recreate that glossy sheen? would some kind of lacquer work?

I hope my post earlier today wasn't seen as hijacking the thread. Apologies if so. After reading further, I've noticed the discussion has since moved on from the topic of building the setup to running the trains. I'll make my own thread when I get started on mine. Again, apologies my post was not on topic with the most recent posts, I hadn't read the entire thread before posting.

Hi folks, I'm finding this thread fascinating as I also plan to model Peterborough North station, once I have managed to complete my attic conversion, although I will be modelling it as it was in the '80s; my teenage years and the era I started my interest in the railway. Of course, by then the canopy had been removed and there was a further platform added. I have a good collection of diesel locos which were often seen in Peterborough in the 1980s, as well as a few steam locos (by then were only doing chartered runs; Mallard, Flying Scotsman, etc.). I also remember the 08 shunter that would often be seen resting around the side of the ticket office behind platform 1. I've managed to find a few photos of the station in the '80s, but always interested to find more, with details such as the signals, I know lights were in use by the '80s, but I can't recall if the older semaphore signals were still in place. I will make a fresh thread once my loft conversion is underway and I can get started on the layout. I'll be modelling a few landmarks north of the station too - I'm still swithering whether to do Marholm crossing as the level crossing with signal box (where Walton station once was), or the concrete bridge which replaced it at the beginning of the '80s. Also, I would like to mention what a marvellous job @great northern has done on Crescent Bridge and the ticket office / platform buildings. However, after trawling through the thread, can't find anything on how they were modelled, of course by the '80s, neither the platform buildings nor the bridge had changed much, so I'd be interested in using the same design & techniques for my layout. Thanks @great northern for keeping this post active, I'll be taking some time out to read the entire thread in full.

Hello folks, I hope it's ok to post a request here. I'm looking for photos, OS maps, aerial shots and any relevant info with regards to Peterborough station in the 1980s. It was the local station in my hometown and I am planning to reconstruct an accurate model railway setup of the station as it was in the 1980s once my attic conversion is ready. I thought it would be an easy job to get the track layout from Google earth, but it appears the station has been completely transformed over the years. I'm not sure when the current adaptations were done, as I moved out of Peterborough decades ago. From what I can gather from Wikipedia, the station remained the same between 1976, up until its renewal in 2013. I am looking to replicate the station as it was throughout the 1980s with as much detail as possible, so any photos from that era would be extremely useful. I can remember a few details such as the 08 shunter often stationed behind the left side of the station as you walk in, at the back of platform 1, although Google Earth shows that line has since been removed. If anyone has any aerial photos, or of the station from afar, particularly the original station building, the shop & waiting areas on platform 4 & 5, as well as the lines beyond platform 5 (which have been rerun due to the addition of the new platform 6 & 7). If anyone can contribute photos or info in any way shape or form, it would be a huge help. I will also be posting any resources here as I find them, just to keep everything in one place. I'll be documenting the build on Youtube when I get started and I'll be happy to give a mention to anyone who is able to help out. Many thanks in advance.

After deciding to rekindle this pastime, I've bought quite a few secondhand diesel locos on eBay. I've been going through them servicing each one as I buy them, but a couple are extremely noisy (and extremely slow), I've stripped the motors down, cleaned the commutators, oiled the armatures and put new brushes and brush springs in, yet they still seem noisy and slow. Spraying switch cleaner onto the commutator whilst running gives it a speed boost and usually fixes things as it lubricates as well as maintaining good conductivity, but the odd one or two quieten for a short period, but soon go back to being slow and noisy. On the worst offenders, I've noticed copper showing through the commutator where it has worn against the brushes, so I'm assuming these motors have done many hours of service. What's the best thing to do in this situation? Is there a way to save these tired and worn motors, or should I look at a replacement motor / bogie? If this is the case, where do you buy replacement motors / powered bogies?

Hi folks, I've just bought one of those LED light upgrades for the HST. There doesn't seem to be a wiring diagram available, but since they use LEDs, I'm assuming I'd need to bypass (or remove) the existing diode in the loco?

So, the 59 sounds (more or less) the same as a 67, or...? I'm asking, as I'm about to chip mine and want to find the closest voice chip (unless 59 voice chips are more readily available now?). This will be my first DCC project, so I'm just wondering how the voice chip plugs into the train, if the DCC socket is already used by the decoder?

Thanks for the info. I just grabbed a Zimo 600R 8 Pin decoder. After looking at a few schematic diagrams, seems it wouldn't be too hard to convert a non-"DCC Ready" loco too. I'll look into the sound thing, as I'd like to take advantage of all potential features. Thanks again!

Hello folks, I'm just getting started in the world of DCC. I have ordered a DCC controller (Gaugemaster Prodigy DCC01), and I have a loco which is "DCC ready" (Hornby R2519 - 59005). Do I need a specific decoder for this locomotive, or can I buy any decoder? Also is it possible to add sound to the loco at this stage? Many thanks in advance, and apologies if my question seems a little naive, but I'm completely new to DCC.

Not sure if this is the best way to go when it comes to wheel cleaning, but this is the method I use, which seems to work well... Just takes a rotary tool, some buffing pads and buffing compond. After burning through a few Dremmels, I switched to this Proxxon and it seems to go forever. I've heard the older Dremmels were built a lot better. Wheels can get pretty dirty and when they're like this, the train is likely to suffer poor connection... Time for a clean! Basically hold onto the opposite wheel to keep it stable, and slowly rotate whilst buffing, put a small amount of pressure against the flange to dig out any stubborn oxidisation. After the wheel is shiny all round, a lint-free cloth can remove any buffing compond residue that may be present. If the powered wheels are quite stiff due to gearing, or they use a worm drive, it's probably easier to power the motor to the opposite direction of the rotary tool and buff the slow moving wheel. Results are quite pleasing and might be useful to someone, so I thought I'd share.

Judjing by the fairly light weight, my guess is it's a switch mode, linear supplies tend to be much heavier. If my assumption is correct and it is a switch mode, my guess is possibly a JFET, they're known to weaken over time. Either way, I've lost faith in the Hornby now. I've not looked inside, but I heard the earlier HM2000's were a lot heavier, so I'm assuming they used linear supplies.

Hi, I just wondered if there's a database of locomotive & carriage disassembly instructions, or maybe service manuals anywhere? I've been very close to snapping clips, stressing panels and scratching paintwok several times due to either a hidden clip or pulling the wrong clip first.

Ansolutely; if you think about an actual railway track, the used tracks are always shiny and clean, the unused ones rust and oxidise, so I guess the same principal applies in a scaled model version.

Hi, just a quick one... I am a bit OCD about keeping all my trains well serviced and lubed. All the wheels on my trains are immaculate, I regularly polish the wheels with my Dremmel to maintain excellent conductivity (obviously not the ones with tyres). I have ensured all tyres are degreased with good grip. I have just ordered a new Gaugemaster controller, I'm hoping a more reliable voltage will solve the problem. I'll post back when it arrives and I've had a chance to test it.

Hi guys, I recently bought the Hornby HM2000, the newer version with the 2-pin figure-8 power cable. I bought this as an upgrade to my kit controllers, Unfortunately there must be a fault as there is not enough power delivered to the track. At half power, the fastest of my trains barely move, when I attach carriages, there is not enough power to run the trains, even at full power. It was an ebay purchase, so I have initiated a return, but just wanted to know if anyone else is suffering with painfully slow trains whilst using this controller. Having zero faith in the Hornby controller now, I've ordered a Gaugemaster Model Q 4-output controller, hopefully once it arrives I'll get more mileage from that one.

That's where I ordered from, but starts from issue 264.

Not sure if this is advisable, but a power car at each end seems to have solved the problem.

Great idea, but is it still heavy enough to allow the lights to work without flickering?

Hello. Thanks for all your replies so far. I can confirm it is a Hornby. I have two Hornby HST's one in Intercity Blue livery and one in Intercity Swift, both exhibit the same traction issues. I will try adding weight and check the carriage bogies for resistance.

Hi guys, I've just subscribed to this, unfortunately it starts from the next issue. Is there any way of getting hold of this one? The cover stories suggest there could be some articles I'd like to read.

Hi all. this is my first post, so go easy (I couldn't find an introduction section)... I have a dilemma with a HST 125; I'm running the engine, 2 first class, 3 second class, a buffet car and the dummy, but the engine does not have enough traction to pull them. If I stand a tender car from a steam loco on top of the 125 above the motor, it has enough traction to pull, albeit reluctantly. How can I improve the traction of the loco?