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Standby

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  1. Do the LEDs flicker, faster as you increase the voltage? Or do they remain on (unless at 0), but get brighter as you increase the voltage. Thanks
  2. I contacted Gaugemaster and they said I could send them back and they would inspect and repair if needed and if they had the parts. They didn't say if what I have described is a likely fault. As I would need to pay for the postage to send them, could somebody with experience of these controllers let me know if what I have described is to be expected or if it sounds like there is a problem. I found a copy of the manual online and it says they have a "pulsed design", so I'm now starting to think what I have described is normal. Thanks.
  3. Okay, that’s useful to know. I’ll send them an email and see what they say. Thank you.
  4. I haven’t tested it on a loco, all mine are now DCC. As for the lifetime guarantee, unfortunately I bought it second hand some time ago.
  5. The voltage does vary as you move the knobs, but rather than be a constant 2v, 6v, or whatever at a particular setting, it will fluctuate between 1-3, or 4-6, if that makes sense. is it broken or is this what to expect on a controller with feedback?
  6. I have one of these old DF feedback controllers, should the 12v outputs remain steady like on the standard Gaugemaster analogue controllers, or does it fluctuate by a few volts? Mine does fluctuate and also the LEDs flicker, faster as you increase the voltage, whereas on the standard controller it is constant but gets brighter.
  7. I do have JMRI, although not really had a proper play with it yet, I only got into model railways in April. Cab lights aren't necessary for me, I think what I would really like, in order of preference: Directional tail lights and headcode Braking Flange squeal Volume control I have these and more on my Heljan 07 and Bachmann 121 with Zimo decoders. Can I have something similar put onto the V4 decoder or would I need to upgrade the decoder?
  8. Thanks for the info Richard. I've gone through all the functions with the 2 switches(cab lights / tail lights) underneath in both the off and on position. Only 12 functions do something. With both switches off there is no way to turn any lights on. The tail light switch doesn't seem to do anything, there's no difference to any of the functions whether it is off or on. With the 'cab' switch on: Function 0 turns the headcodes on and they are directional. Function 5 turns the cab lights and tails lights on/off and these will both stay on. The tail lights are not directional, the same end stays red whichever way the loco is going. Function 6 turns the tail light on/off at the other end of the loco, again, not directional, they stay on either way the loco is going. I'll stop looking for the headlight as they may not exist! I guess my question now is can I reblow the decoder to get more functions? So the tail lights would be directional, add a braking function, separate cab light function, volume up/down, etc. Neil
  9. Thanks for your reply. I don't have any manuals for the decoder. I'm not going to start messing around with a multimeter, could be flogging a dead horse and would rather return it than risk causing further problems.
  10. I recently picked up a 2nd hand Bachmann Class 40 fitted with DCC sound, it's mint condition but I can't get the head or tail lights to work. On selecting Function 0 on my controller the centre headcodes light up as expected and are directional, but the head or tail lights don't seem to work. There are 2 switches underneath (for DC operation, I think) 1, for 'cab light', 1 for 'tail light'. When these are switched on and function 5 is selected these work (along with a coupling noise!?) so I know the rear LEDs work, at least red does. I'm told it's a Loksound V3.5 or 4 decoder (see picture) possibly sound fitted by Olivias Trains, but the functions don't match the current ones available. I've tried a CV8/8 reset. I've checked the contacts between the body and chassis are clean. I can return it if it doesn't work, but maybe there's something else I can try. Neil
  11. This might have been covered already, but I found the Number 17 NEM Kadee couplers work well on older Dapol sockets when held with a drop or two of white / PVA glue left to set overnight. In fact this works better than the newer Dapol wagons fitted with NEM sockets which seem to be quite floppy.
  12. Fair comment and I appreciate all the help you’ve given me. I do have some flexitrack that was given to me, I’m going to lay that out, I think that will help move me forward with my plans once I see it laid out. And thank you for the Finetrax suggestion, I’m definitely interested in using those points. Thanks again, Neil
  13. I'm wondering if this too much station for me. My initial idea in my head was a goods yard layout with diesel locos, that developed in to a station with a goods yard and I'll run a few DMUs. Then I thought that could be in the 60's so I can run a small steam loco with a few carriages as well. It certainly possible to run much longer passenger trains on your layout but I'm not sure I'll want to, that's not really my thing. I have to balance what interests me (shunting and goods yard) against what would have been. I have to think about the cost as well. Would I be tempted to spend a few hundred pounds on a DMU with sound - yes. And a steam loco with a rake of coaches... not so much. More to consider. I've printed out both layouts so I can compare them and mull it over. Then I start thinking should I plan a different layout altogether.... Ok, maybe not right now, but it is fun. I'll keep an open mind and I'm always open to suggestions...
  14. Thanks Phil, I'll have ponder over your suggestion. I've come across various point kits but not Finetrax. What's the advantage of the these over the other brands? It looks like they might be easier to construct. I know Peco is a bit of a compromise in some ways, I was going for the easy option on my first layout, although I was going to remove the spring and use latching motors.
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