ShadowinLinby

James - the next ZAG meeting is tomorrow evening - details in the ZAG post on here. Pop in and say hello - we're a friendly bunch. Just remember, there will be members showing what they've been up to recently - don't be put off by what you see - remember the only difference between you and us is time and practice ChrisB

James - I would depending on where you live, either seek out your local area group our join in on the Zoom Area Group (ZAG) which happens on Saturdays twice a month, or if possible do both. You will find lots on helpful people who all started where you are, and will be more than happy to answer any questions you have. ChrisB

The drop in wheel sets are very easy to do and you can have a diesel converted very quickly. The 2mm FS Finetrac point kits are a good starter for a newbie to get a feel for point making. I would give fine scale a go and see how it suits you. Like everything different, it's about learning a few new skills. It's also about accepting that we learn by making mistakes. He who never made a mistake never made anything. ChrisB

The instruction to leave the loft accessible came from Mrs Laurie. The fact that both Laurie and Mrs Laurie shouldn't really be climbing in to lofts seems to have been ignored.

There are plenty of people who would disagree with your option for larger layout, Jerry Clifford, Laurie Adams, the Fencehouses gang and me to name but a few. ChrisB

I use a combination of Easitrac plastic chairs on plastic sleepers and copper clad in vital areas i.e. the switch blade ends and under the crossing nose, which I've found to be suitable robust. Using this method the crossing nose, which is made using the Crossing Nose Webs (1-111) (and see my article in the Oct-Nov 2mm mag) means that the crossing nose is totally insulated.

I would disagree with your comment that 2mFS point work is more costly. I've just costed out one of my hand built B8 point which comes out at about £7. This compares with around £18 for Peco Streamline and £29 for the comparable Fine Trax version. ChrisB

The chassis in the photo hasn't been cleaned at all yet. I find a toothbrush and a bit of fairy liquid is all you need.

What's not broken doesn't need fixing is the appropriate saying. I've used Fluxite for years and just like you it works perfectly. CCT replacement put together using the same.

I don't solder the bush in place for ease of removal should any wear take place. Bush is opened out to 1.8mm which is a nice slide fit over the 10ba stud

That just goes to show there are no original ideas - that's the method I use - the use of the drive bush gives a consistent, but adjustable if required, ride height

On my own there then - however my comment was based on the way I've developed for mounting my bogies which will be appearing in the 2mm mag at some point

Hi Ian - I'd stick with 10ba and open the holes out in the etch - I personally think 12ba is a bit small for a bogie mount but I'm sure others will have a different view

It went WSL a while ago and as It no longer listed, it suggest all the stock has gone.

To save me looking through all my MRJ pile, what edition was the stay-live article in Nick