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G-BOAF

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  1. But too small to fit over the printed plates.... is the Gloss varnish over or under the printed nameplates? This will dictate how easy a rename this is The model of Kenneth Grange really looks a bit too glossy for the prototype which is a shame. I might buy the set when the price drops a bit, but unlikely to pay £260....
  2. Just looking at my lovely Blackmoor Vale in Bulleid Malachite livery, and noticed that the middle yellow strip was a little 'high' up on the deflector, but aligned perflectly on the body side. Further investigation of photos and the model suggests that the deflectors might come a tad too far down the side. Has this been raised before? I recall all the comments and reviews of this model when first released were generally positive with no clear dimensional errors noted. Compare With This is the only Unrebuilt Light pacific thread I could fine in the Hornby forum., please advise if there is a 'general' thread for this model and I will move my post.
  3. Just seen this. Of course I didn't take a before pic! BUT after has made a huge difference. There is still a small bit of misting by the lining so I will try to photograph before I remove that. 99.9% Isopropyl alochol lab grade and a Cotton bud. Gently rubbing on the affected area in various direction (in order to work around rivet detail. As far as I can tell it is NOT harming printed detail (lining etc) - I started off near the nameplate and no damage. Given the cab will be renumbered any damage to the nameplate was of no consequence so it was a good test. Thanks everyone for the advice There is some glue splodging around the cab handrail so I will probably invest in superglue remover to try to sort that. Will report back. But pleased with progress....!
  4. Shame about the Gloss. Satin would have been better (even for the GWR PC). Tempted to get it, but really don't like the non-close coupling. Is there an easy way to close cam couple/convert the two power cards. I presume with a single trailer you could achieve close coupling and rely on the cam from the trailer car? Tempted to buy, have travelled behind/infront of both in recent years. Shame the orange cantrail stripes don't go round to the corridor connection (as they prototypically should. Somewhat sloppy attention to detail...
  5. Has anyone got eyes on 4073 Caerphilly and 5076 Drysllywn Castle together? - do the greens mach. Am contemplating a tender/cab swap to make something else.... but only if the greens match!
  6. Height (from bottom of flanges to running plate) Front of tender 20mm Rear of tender 19mm... I have dismanted the tender a while back,, and from what I recall the lugs the wheels site in are part of the main chassis moulding, in which case something tooled wrong (and duplicated on the King tooling....) (but I may be wrong, in which case it is probably a case of unscrewing and removing some flash) Not the best pics due to light now and the fact I only have my Leatherman to hand (and a castle tender rather than a King as easier to get my hands on)
  7. Its a bad picture. Will see if I can get something better later that illustrates the problem. The front axle is definately a bit high, and the middle axle sometimes skips the rail head
  8. I have a collection of Castle and Kings (in various stages of usability/conversion). Recently noticed that the collett 4000g tenders were about half a mm higher at the front than the rear. The rear lines up exactly with the hawskworth tenders, but the front is higher. Anyone know a fix for this? I have dismanted one tender to check the wheels are in their lugs properly and they are, and I can't see any difference in hight of the wheel lugs below the chassis base plate. I need to explore further, but if anyone has solved this problem already, I would be happy to hear. Poor illustration below. Gap between running plate and ruler is harger on left (front) end than right (rear)
  9. OK, the deluxe materials stuff seems interesting. BUT is the mist actualy glue, or a reaction to finger grease from the fumes (and does that make a difference)? What it will certainly be useful for is future attempts to dismantle Hornby models for various projects!
  10. Not found this exact question on here (but apologies if it is buried somewhere) I have a Hornby Castle Class with white superglue mist on parts of the body (indeed all of them have mist somewhere, normally around handrail knobs), One in particular has the side of the cab misted (except for little circles around the rivets, as the workers finger grease didn't touch that!) What tips for removal? I've just ordered some 99.9% lab alcohol which I could use gently. Or T-cut? I don't want to damage the underlying paint, nor the varnish if possible, and certainly not the lining. Nameplate less of an issue as she is being renamed. Has anyone got a technique that works on Hornby body parts. Thanks Muchly G-BOAF
  11. I guess I could use a dab of PVA (suitably flexible when dry) and a rubber band to hold things true while it dries...
  12. Things have straightened a little overnight (but don't know if that was having the body off or having released the truss). I sense an easy fix would be to double-side tape the underframe to the interior (which is rigid in the right places). Glue would be a permanent fix, but given the ballast weight is held in with double sided tape, this seems a good place to start. May be able to do this without touching the truss at all.
  13. Playing around with a scrap hawksworth BTK to try to solve the bowed underframe that all my three examples suffer from (plus the scrap one!) the underframe appears to fish belly down slightly just inboard of the bogies, worse on one side than the other. In trying to straighten things, the truss bowed, which led me to think the truss moulding was introducing some tension into the underframe piece. The trussing ends in a cross member, and is glued onto the underframe with three lugs. I have removed the cross member at both ends (leaving the truss free) and will report back overnight what happens. Has anyone else tried to solve this problem? I sense it is widespread but worse on some examples.
  14. Thanks for all the info. Most illuminating in showing the complexities of forces.
  15. I do recall in the Dapol Western Thread, it was noted that the grills were on the centre lines in the CADs, despite the loco having been laser scanned (on the prototype the are offset opposite at each end due to position of internal walkway crossing from one side of loco to the other. Someone in China working on the CADs had 'corrected' the off-centre grills, clearly thinking that they should be on the centreline of the roof. I suspect a number of 'corrections' occur (given that most chinese cad engineers have not spent any time up close with the prototype) that introduce errors into models and are not always picked up on. Then there are also changes due to necessary compromise of scale, track radius etc that require other adjustments and knock-on impacts that I guess can result in deviation from what was originally scanned.
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