sagaguy

If it`s the very fine wire you want to strip,heat it in the flame of a disposable lighter and and remove the insulation with your finger nails. Works for me!. Ray.

I used 150gsm gloss photo paper,I blackened the cut white edges with a chisel black marker pen,preformed the tumblehome between my fingers and stuck them on using 6mm double sided tape.Hope this helps. Ray.

No mistaking a WD tender,my O gauge tender from my WD 2-8-0 build Ray

You can see the D series overlays here.

These are for the D series coaches,I thought i produced a set for the brake ends but you can alter the length of the sd brakes.

Try these for starters,to fit SD coaches

You really need insulation board as a base board for Peco spiked track to work which was the original intention of Peco.I built several pointkits in the early 60s and afraid to say that they wern`t a success,keeping the gauge was the most difficult thing. Ray.

Quality control was not great at Wrenn unlike Meccano.Screw holes not fully tapped,they didn`t always use quite the right gauge wire for armatures etc,The Mazak material used could be be difficult to drill and tap,by the way,all threads were BA. Ray.

Disposable cigarette lighter,hold the cable in the flame fo a couple of seconds and strip the insulation with finger and thumb nail,it doesn`t get hot!. Ray.

Very powerful locomotives,this one is operating from the catenary under seperate control from the rest of the track layouts.

If they have the original p/up configuration for 2 rail,just turn one round.Don`t take the motor out,you won`t be able to mesh the gear properly. Ray

They are normally 1.2mm selftapping screws in various lengths,i get mine through ebay. Ray.

They were the old Eveready 126 batteries.Modern equivilents are available but at a price. https://www.smallbattery.company.org.uk/sbc_a6570.htm Ray.

I don't think you can use them for low melt solder but they are ideal with normal solder for seams,just follow the iron with the solder but solder paste,ie. Carrs,is the cats whiskers for small items. Ray.

I suppose it comes down to how many brass kits you will eventually building .I'm building 0 gauge loco kits and the question of soldering came up.Because of the large areas of brass,I had to upgrade my soldering station to 100w but the biggest boon to me is that I recently purchased a resistance soldering unit and makes life pretty easy as it just heats the area where you are soldering. It's made the assembly of coupling rods a doddle. Ray

I havn`t posted much for a while but an update on the WD 2-8-0 build.The tender to all intents is now finished apart from painting. From small beginnings, making a start on the wd 2-8-0 loco.first pair of coupling rods,one more to make and the first pair of horns and axle boxes.The rsu has been very useful now that I'm getting to grips with it. Ray

I get mine from ebay,macmodels,gwr supplies to name but a few. Ray.

Yes,0 gauge is a whole new ball game,i`ve been collecting and operating Hornby Dublo 3 rail for more years than i care to remember.With advancing age,i can no longer duck under the base board so the layout is now being slowly dismantled.Have you thought about building your own locos,coaches and wagons,RTR is a bit limited still,mainly to tank locos it seems.A few years ago,i bought a DJH Fairburn tank kit,i built the chassis and there it stopped but last year,i thought it was about time i finished it and the photo is the result.I`m also building a Roxey mouldings WD Austerity 2-8-0,the nearly completed tender is also below.It brings with it,a whole set of skills such as soldering etc.It`s very satisfying to roll your own,you would be surprised at what you could achieve. Ray

This one i made a couple of years ago,Dapol body,Dublo Barnstaple chassis with modified valve gear. Ray

I think Dapol plastic is recycled plastic, I started a Kitmaster Bulleid Pacific after the Dapol model and Kitmaster plastic is definitely harder!. Ray.

I use Cif or similar on cast metal bodies and plastic but the citric acid in that reactes with solder so i degrease with a non bio washing powder and a toothbrush. The finish on that loco was Halfords satin black,Fox transfers finished with Railmatch gloss enamel varnish. Ray

Fox lining is best cut into shorter lengths and line up using a small brush and water.One the hardest and time consuming was this tender for my Dulo conversion to Sir William Stanier Ivatt duchess.The red lining had to be fitted first and when dry,the cream lining hed to applied inside the red. Just a warning,don`t use washing up liquid to clean your models prior to painting.It contains lanolin which stops the paint from adhering to the body properly. Ray.

Now being a builder of brass 0 gauge kits,i`ve moved to using Fry Powerflux rather than Carrs fluxes which i find are a bit corrosive coupled with a London Road RSU for a lot of the soldered joints these days. Ray.

Romford?.

Nice photo,i have a 7mm E3000 kit on the to do list!. Ray.