RFS

The default setting for most decoders is 28/128 speed steps. Which of these it's using is set in the command station and not in the decoder. Decoders can also have 14/27 speed steps, but this is set in the decoder in CV 29.

You could try the motor bogie for the 2-HAL/2-BIL EMUs (X6575). Available from a number of suppliers but very cheaply from Lendons of Cardiff. http://www.lendonsmodelshop.co.uk/index.asp?redirect=&q=X6575&searchwhere=On-Lendons-Website&condition=or&highlighted=on EDIT: their website is a bit slow to load!

You can get the battery from here although it's currently out of stock - https://www.dccsupplies.com/item-p-105175/lenz-battery-pcb-mount. However it does require soldering to the PCB. Alternatively you could return to A&H Models for them to do this.

Have you completely isolated the frog, ie not only put insulated rail joiners on both vee-rails, but also cut the wires underneath which link the blade rails to the frog? If you haven't done the latter then power to the frog is still being supplied via the blades. I therefore wonder if there's a possibility that the internal switch in the Tortoise is managing to change the polarity of its feed whilst the blade rail is still in contact with the stock rail, thereby tripping out the DCC command station. This could happen if the springs are still in, meaning there might be a delay before the blades switch.

There's quite a range of travelcards and multi-day passes to choose from. Some of these also give you a 50% discount on the mountain railways too. Have a look here - https://www.sbb.ch/en/travelcards-and-tickets.html

Have you tried operating the motor on the workbench using a 9V battery, for example?

5-engine stack train crossing the bridge at normal speed at 04.52 local time. Just realized it's a duplicate post!

Live feed showing the recovery work underway - 3424 people viewing at the moment! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hNvU59Ld8aA

A quick glance at the instructions confirms your feelings are correct! For reasons lost in the mists of time, my RS8s are numbered 90-97 ....

I had a problem today with several trains derailing when they came out of the hidden storage yard. Eventually I concluded it was not the trains themselves at fault but something to do with the track. Close inspection revealed a large wasp had decided to expire in one the frogs, thereby causing some wheels to lift and derail .... Wasps and flies seem to get into my converted loft all too easily but this is the first time it's caused a real problem.

Plenty of sellers of this type of wire on Ebay, for example this one. Having wrestled with splitting twin-and-earth for my layout a few years ago, I'd probably go down this route next time if I do! The main thing is to ensure it's of adequate size.

If you want to go down the road of close-coupling cams for these Bulleid coaches, then Symoba couplings are one solution. I've converted mine and they work well. Corridors touch on straight track without any additional corridor connection needed. Excellent instructions here - https://southernregionmodels.wordpress.com/rolling-stock/25-2/ I got my couplings from DCC Supplies who seem to be the UK distributor.

According to the pictures on Robert Carroll's website, 2-HAPs were still working Ramsgate-Charing Cross services in 1993/4. So where would they have been allocated?

On Robert Caroll's excellent website there's this picture of a pair of 2-HAPs on a Ramsgate service that's dated 15/1/1994. https://www.flickr.com/photos/robertcwp/42641692562/in/album-72157629191176988/ Scroll through and there are other images of 2-HAPs on the SED at this time.

You're using a DCC system with 5A power. It's imperative that your bus wire size is capable of handling this amount of power to all parts of the layout with minimal voltage drop. If you have a short circuit, eg when a loco derails on a set of points, then considerable damage can be done if, due to voltage drop, the full 5A does not flow and thus the DCC system sees no overload and does not cut out. There are choices for bus wire - both solid and stranded - and it's really up to you. If your layout is static then I would suggest using 2.5mm "twin-and-earth" from DIY stores. Normally this costs no more than £1 per metre. Strip off the outer plastic sheath and you are left with brown and blue wires for your bus. The unsheathed copper earth wire is apparently very good for making trees! When you build and wire your layout you need to make sure that you have covered the short circuit issue. Simply do the coin test - ie go round your layout and place a coin on the track and make sure the DCC command station cuts out immediately. If it doesn't, then wiring at that point is inadequate. The wire you have (7x0.2) is fine for droppers but they need to be short - ie no more than 12-18 inches. And make sure you have plenty of them, ideally on every piece of track.