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Only checking in to RM Web having been on holidays and absolutely floored. I had the extremely good fortune of meeting with Mick at Missenden on a number of occasions, and as someone who has come to the hobby relatively late, and without any history in terms of relationships with the broader hobby, he made me feel instantly welcome, at ease and one of the gang. I cannot find words that would sufficiently describe his generosity of spirit, his willingness to listen at any time, his patience, and his sheer enthusiasm. As many have already said, he was the superlative gentlemen. For me, weathering tuition will never be the same again, and whenever I do dabble in future, I will forever think very fondly of the teacher and great sport that was Mick. My thoughts are with his family on their premature and tragic loss. Darren

Finished the 7F at last - I really do put off fitting brakes until there's nothing at all else left to do, it soooo tries my patience. Running under it's own power and very well too - I'm delighted with how it runs actually. Crosses all point work, all curves etc with no issues whatsoever in both directions, and runs really smoothly with no rattling and banging over the track. I did have some challenges finishing the vale gear but got there in the end. The early error with the slide bar support bracket fitted in reverse really punished me. In short this meant that the eccentric rod was too long (evidenced by the expansion link be tilted too far backwards) and the valve/radius rod was too short. I drilled new holes in the valve/radius rod for the mounting pin through the expansion link - took a few trial and error attempts, along with adjustments to the eccentric crank position before I could get it running freely, albeit it is not strictly prototypical. Some further changes were required at the top of the combination lever, above the valve rod joint. I replaced the box representing the valve spindle crosshead with one that permitted a much longer throw or operating arc at the top of the combination lever. I slotted the combination lever through this box while off the loco, inserted a pin through the top of the combination lever to prevent it falling down out of the box, and then fitted the whole assembly to the loco (crosshead arm to the crosshead and representative valve spindle crosshead soldered to the inside of the valence. As the loco was run in this seems to operate quite well. The finished article on Engine Wood - valve gear to be painted further, the cab inside painted, and then everything weathered. That will be God knows when...

I'm looking for e set of instructions for an OO Alan Gibson Stanier 2-6-4T tank engine. It's on the bench now and next in line, but I've no instructions. I could probably manage, but if anyone could supply a set it would definitely save me a considerable amount of head scratching. I would be willing to pay a few bob for a copy. Thanks a mil

9C85 - the clamp is from Phoenix Precision paints. They do various sizes and I find them invaluable for spray painting everything The coach was lined with a ruling pen - don't look too closely. I'm still learning (in a big way) and as Ian Rathbone says, practice, practice, practice. The hardest thing on a coach side is how to negotiate over protrusions such as door handles and vents. A lot can be tidies up afterwards with a very fine paintbrush. Darren

Cheers Dave, appreciate your checking for me.

To Blanford - yes, boiler assembly is attached via two screws. One from beneath into the smokebox, and one from the cab into the front of the firebox. The Firebox was quite flimsy, so I added some strenghtening pieces along the base on each side where it sits on the footplate to help avoid it distorting if squeezed by finger pressure when lifting the loco (because the firebox isn't soldered to the footplate). You can make these out on the photo, along with the lead sheet that was cut to fit the firebox sides, and glued in situ just above the strengthening strips. The casting for the smokebox saddle was a little narrow, so shim were added each side so it sat snuggly between the frames. Other items of note: the kit had no wheel balance weights, nor boiler washout plugs, so spares box and some fabricating required. Likewise added a strengthening piece beneath the rear of the cab roof. Biggest mistake I made during assembly was with the slidebar support bracket. One half fits across the frames and then a second etch is fitted on each side outside the frames afterwards, later in the build. The instructions don't specific the orientation of the initial part that fits across the frames, and I put it in the wrong way around (facing forward), and had to add the half etches to the rearward face later. This meant that the bracket was slightly further back that it should be, had it been installed with the initial part the opposite way around (facing rearwards). Seems to have worked out OK. Will let you know in due course how I resolve the valve gear conundrum. Darren

This one got me thinking quite a while back - dug out an old Lima GUV, and added flush glazing, wheels, coupling hooks etc, and a repaint (after paring back the roof ridges) with lining via ruling pen and numbering with HMRS transfers. Didn't happen quite as quick as typing the sentence, but it was a nice distraction from loco building.

Couple more examples of late - took some poetic licence with both liveries as I fancied a Crimson Lake finish, whereas I believe that the 0-4-4T never carried this, and I'm not 100% that the 2-4-2T did in LMS guise either. U-Pol rattle can etching primer, followed by Phoenix enamels (airbrushed), lined with a ruling pen (again Phoenix paints) and finally covered by Ronseal satin varnish (airbrushed). Chassis not built as yet for the 0-4-4T - have one in hand but it's on the todo list.

By the way, if anyone has a set of instructions for the Gibson Stanier 2-6-4T kit I'd be very appreciative of a copy - seem to have misplaced mine. She's next on the list. Cheers Darren

I mentioned the Gibson Black 5 earlier - a beautiful kit now that it's finished. Again a bit slower to build and main problem was that the boiler was too short by about 1.5mm. Filled the gap with low melt solder, and used transfers for rivets before painting. CSB suspension, and runs like a dream. Camera cruelty - the glazing will have to be done again on one of the cab windows, and the 3-link coupling needs to be chemically blackened.

The DJH 8F is a little different from a chassis perspective in that it has the more traditional separate chassis and footplate/body. On this occasion I binned the DJH chassis altogether and used a Perseverance chassis kit for an 8F. It uses a flexi-chassis type arrangement for the front pair of axles, and equalising beams inside the frames for the rear pair of axles. Seems to run really smoothly - I'm very hapy with is one. Build is stalled while I await a new worm for the gearbox from Chris at High Level Gears as I used a motor with a 2mm shaft versus the worm I purchased having a 1.5mm bore. Motor is retained by the ring shown, which has a transverse tube underneath, and a 0.7mm rod is thread through the frames and this tube which allows the motor/gearbox assembly pivot slightly with suspension movements, but retains it in position from a torque reaction perspective.

I couldn't figure out how to add more text to the above post, so will follow on with another. I usually use a CSB approach to suspension but on this occasion, given the complexities of the integrated footplate and frames, I elected for a Jazz type approach and sprung the two innermost drive axles as shown, and slightly oversized the associated holes in the coupling rods. Can't say if this is successful as yet insofar as I haven't added pickups and tried the loco under power. It does seem to run very smoothly under finger power.

Bringing this thread back to life again as I am in the middle of building (very slowly) two more 8 coupled locos, an Alan Gibson SDJR 7F, a DJH Stanier 8F, along with having just finished an Alan Gibson Stanier Class 5. I love the Gibson kits, but both the 7F and Black 5 did prove less than straightforward. The 7F kit is unusual in that the footplate and chassis are a single integrated assembly which makes combining the firebox/boiler, motor/gearbox and frames/wheels together a bit trickier than normal. I was scratching my head a little while but eventually resolved the puzzle per the picture below. My usual approach of painting chassis and wheels separately, and mating them thereafter also proved trickier, but got there in the end (with some choice language along the way. I am now stuck though as attaching the radius rod/ combination lever/union link assembly to the crosshead and expansion link mounting has demonstrated that something is wrong. In essence the combination lever pivots on the end of the radius rod, and the arc described by the top of the combination lever is greater that the clearance available inside the dummy valve box. I've tried some judicious filing, and moved the mounting point at the expansion link end but to no avail as yet. Ideas welcome. I love the model and can't wait to get it moving under it's own power.

Fabulous Kit and build Ian, how do I go about ordering a kit (or etches) from you? Thanks Darren

Here's my Coal Tank with an LRM chassis as recommended by Jol Wilkinson back in January. Goes without saying that it is light years ahead of the K's chassis that it replaced, so many thanks again for the suggestion. Built as a flexichassis, with equalising beam and hornblocks on the front two axles, with rearmost driving axle fixed. Small DJH gearbox and mashima motor doing the business. BTW, John at LRM was a pleasure to deal with too! The fact I dropped the loco off the workbench and had to repair it delayed things somewhat - maybe testimony to the strength of the Whitemetal assembly that it didn't crumple up too significantly, and only minor reassembly straightening out was required. Cheers Darren

I'm delighted to have "taken possession" of this treasure, and many thanks to Tim for his consideration in this regard. It is by no means getting "dumped", although there will be somewhat of a delay before I get to erect it and run some trains, as we're currently in the throes of moving house, new jobs, new schools for kids etc etc, so it could be the end of the summer before it finally takes pride of place in my railway room when all the hub bub has died down (and I get all of the stuff that's currently in the room out of the way. I have to say can't wait!!! I will post some pictures here once everything is up and going, and to keep things alive, but they'll by no means match the quality of the fantastic photos posted heretofore. Here's looking forward to the summer! Darren

Tom, Ronseal is impervious to White Spirits once you give it sufficient time to dry fully. I don'd have a scientific answer as to how long is required, but I personally I tend to have models varnished for 2 weeks or so before I line them, and this has never then presented me with any issues during lining around the use of white spirits for tidying things up (or even washing off complete sections of lining I have messed up). You could I'm sure get away with a shorter period, but some trial and error may be required to find the sweet spot. For lining you need a gloss finish to ensure the lining paint flows as best possible. Thus, regardless of base coat, for best results you should varnish with gloss. Post completion of lining (and transfers), you can varnish again with your choice of wherever on the matt/satin/gloss continuum you desire. I will add to my prior post that my disdain for Testors has increased further. I applied Tamiya masking tape to a model I was weathering during a fantastic weekend at Missenden with Mick Bonwick, and upon removing the tape, it took off portions of the lacquer, and the transfers beneath same. Given that the room was full of fellow modellers, the tirade of expletives were limited to my inner voice alone. Only varnish over transfers for me going forward. Cheers Darren

Tom, No - Ronseal works perfectly with the transfers. I have a number of Testors rattle cans, and I was trying to avoid having to set up the airbrush/extractor and mix the varnish to apply Ronseal. As is almost always the case, there are no shortcuts! About 15 seconds after applying the diluted methylated spirits to the Testors lacquer, the lacquer practically dissolved and disappeared, leaving me trying to apply transfers to the matt surface beneath, which isn't ideal. Exacerbated by the fact my current stock of HRMS transfers are more difficult than usual to work with (they don't adhere well, and it is difficult to get the backing paper off without disturbing their positioning as a result). Cheers Darren

Thanks Jol - just reached out to LRM to get an order in process for the chassis. Much appreciated Darren

Looked through this thread with interest. I had quite a collection of K's kits gathered together from EBay with a view to learning how to solder and assemble these before moving onto more taxing kits. Generally I have binned the tenders, and the chassis, and replaced same with Comet variants, keeping only the loco bodies and further detailing same as part of assembly. I have only 1 remaining unassembled kit for a Black 5, which I will get to in due course. Here's the end results: K's Princess Royal K's Black 5 Fowler 2-6-2T. I love this one actually, and am in the throes of finishing a Gibson chassis for it. The Valve gear is pretty poor, and I'm replacing the lot, including crossheads. There'll be a bit of scratchbuilding required for this. THis was my first ever kit. I've only this past week or so removed the K's Chassis with a view to replacing the drive/gearbox, but will also have to replace the wheels, and beef up the connecting rods Last one - from the K's Silver Jublilee kit. My first effort at lining a full LMS passenger livery. Again Comet Chassis and Tender All the best Darren

Forgot this one. K's Loco body again, Comet Chassis and Tender. THis one has the high lettering on the tender side, where I encountered the problems with Testors lacquer and methylated spirits mixing?

Well, I’ve spent the past few months lining some locos that have been on the to do list for quite a while. There were some more learnings for me, over and above those posted previously on this thread. Still using Phoenix paints to finish and line the yellow on the locos, with the exception of all-black freight locos which are done with Halfords satin black rattle cans and red lining which is Humbrol gloss red. What went well? 1. Change in the varnish ratio from 3:2 Matt:Satin to 3:2 Satin:Matt (standard Ronseal satincoat and mattcoat) thinned 50:50 with white spirit gave a nicer lustre. There were small discrepancies in the degree of sheen on some tender sides, but it is barely barely noticeable. 2. Treating valve gear with Birchwood Casey brass black, and polishing same prior to final assembly gives a lovely metallic finish, and dispenses with the brass sheen, along with preventing future oxidation impair the finish. 3. The Windsor and Newton Series 7 000 brush is absolutely gift for tidying up lines. 4. The loco holding jig per Iain’s book and earlier posts is fabulous – couldn’t work without it. 5. Humbrol gloss black and gloss red are quite easy to line with. 6. I used a simple masking card to varnish the valve chests after the loco was assembled. Simply cut a rectangle marginally bigger than the valve chests, then hold the card with the hole immediately over the valve chests, varnishing via the airbrush through the hole in the card. 7. I’m delighted with how some of my older K’s kits turned out – although the lining is very unkind to any footplates that aren’t absolutely level / straight. 8. Leaving the spring/axlebox casting off the tender lower sides (per Ian’s advice) makes lining them so much easier. Fixed on afterwards with glue. 9. I made templates up for positioning the tender lettering which worked very well (except for a Stanier tender finished with Testors (see below). The lettering is a little too high on this one, but I couldn’t move it because of a reaction between the meths and Testors lacquer during application. 10. Leaving out the backhead makes painting the cab interior so much easier (esp. the cream above waist height). I’ll be doing this on all loco’s going forward. 11. I loved the challenge, and the patience required. What could have gone better? 1. Varnishing at 40-45Psi was a testy affair – I found that the finish was inclined to be mottled or orangey peely with the air full on. Reducing the airflow via the airbrush trigger, or lowering the compressor pressure (whilst trigger is depressed) to 35 Psi gave a smother finish and less flooding. I only had one run in the varnish coat over a joblot of 6 locos and one coach, but it required waiting and multiple passes for each of many spraying cycles. 2. Windows – the Micro-Kristal Klear is excellent, but I did have two windows out of 25 or so that I will have to remove and redo. 3. I used Testors satin spray lacquer on some of the black freight locos prior to putting on the HRMS transfers (methfix). A big disaster – even after having had a few days drying time, putting the dilute methylated spirits onto the body of the loco “dissolved” the Testors lacquer. IT was all recoverable, and the locos were sprayed with Ronseal per above after transfer application. 4. I was thinning the Phoenix lining paint with white spirit as the weeks progressed but it was losing its creamy consistency and skins seemed to form quicker on the paint in the tins the less that was in them. I gave up on trying to finish the tins, and binned any that were less than 1/3 full. My lines weren’t flowing, and they were too thick. Phoenix have agreed to provide me with some raw resin for which I’m now waiting to see if this will help going forward. 5. I have learned not to leave masking tape on for too long – it didn’t lift any paint, but neither does it leave a crisp edge against which to line if left more than a day or two. 6. Lining steps (particularly immediately behind the buffer beam or beneath the footplate is very awkward – started using transfers here. 7. Speaking of transfers, I have many sheets of HRMS transfers. IT seems to me like the older straw lettering sheets I have are better than ones purchased more recently. Aside from the fact that the font colour is different, the new ones do not adhere well to the surface, lifting very easily when trying to remove the backing paper, or even later prior to varnishing. Extreme care had to be taken when applying and prior to sealing these. 8. Setting out the transfers, especially the cabside numbers can be tricky. I’ve one set that’s slightly off centre, so will have to take more time at this going forward. 9. My Decalfix homemade transfers (splashers and firebox/smokebox lining)also required car and attention post application and prior to varnishing, as they were susceptible to lifting if disturbed in any way. 10. Applying nameplates with super glue requires a very steady had – any shifting around smears glue on the paint surface outside of the plate area. Had this calamity once – trick is very sparing use of glue, and patience. 11. Extreme care required with a mini-drill post completion of lining/varnishing! I managed to cut two small chunks out of the edge of the tank sides of the Fowler 2-6-2T why making room for the drive motor, duh! Fortunately lining is intact, so squadron green and some deft satin black on a brush will remedy things. I still have some touching up and finishing to do here and there (cab floors, doors etc, but in the round almost finished. It’s back to Missenden for the Spring weekend with Mick Bonwick for some weathering tuition now, and a quite advisory word with Ian Rathbone I’m sure too. All the best – some pictures below Darren The completed Princess - K's loco body, Comet chassis and Tender kit. Gold lettering The completed Duchess. DJH loco/chassis/Tender. The two sisters side by side The completed Gibson Crab. I really loved this kit - definitely more complicated to assemble, but superb detail. Probably my nicest lining job this far. This is the Fowler 2-6-2T from earlier posts, (minus the two chunks on the lower front edge of the tanks thanks to careless mini-drill driver!). Chassis is a Gibson affair, but has tried me no end and hence is incomplete. End is in sight though. $F with two different lettering colours from the like numbered HRMS transfer sheets. Some weathering will look after this - roll on Missenden.

Barry Ten, a very fair comment and point taken on allowing family time at this particular juncture re Maindee ownership. Thanks all for the pointers - personally I'm looking for an OO gauge layout. I've been kit building for years, but being located in Ireland, membership of a Model Railway Society is a remote possibility, and hence knowledge of layouts for sale, and opportunities to run stock are non-existent. Thus, if I could find something that fits my needs that;'s for sale it would be fantastic. Have looked at Maindee East, Lydgate and Farnham, and Maindee East looks really attractive but I can't find a trackplan showing its actual size. I'm pitching at something from the steam era (pre-grouping ideally but not absolutely). I'll be giving Footplate Models a bell shortly too. I have a space 17'6" x 12' available. All the best Darren

Hello How would one find out if Maindee East is indeed for sale again, or at least who to contact to enquire if this might be the case Thanks Darren

Absolutely fantastic result Iain, and a really beautiful engine too! Onwards and upwards Darren