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ikcdab

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  • Location
    Taunton, Somerset
  • Interests
    Southern Railway, West Somerset Railway.

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  1. I agree with all the comments. Practice makes perfect. You probably need to have a second go. I'd strip off what you have done, clean it up, apply primer and have another go. If you are going to brush paint, use several thin coats.
  2. As far as a model railway is concerned, they are of no practical use at all. However, if you want additional realism, they yes of course, they should be used.
  3. The dependent disc (points indicator) remained at crowcombe until the box was closed in 1966. Bearing in mind the comments above, was this some sort of record?
  4. i wonder why this was. The voyage around Lands End was one to be avoided and one wonders why you would do that when there was a perfectly suited railway. was it the economics? Maybe it was cheaper for the mine owners to ship coal by sea rather than pay the GWR's rates?
  5. Working from the right... The home bracket is ok, but I think it should be right up by the toe of the points adjacent to the disc. As the right hand arm reads into the goods loop, then this could be a short goods arm. It's not clear if your disc refers to the goods loop or main. The section signal is good, might be a bit further out to the right to allow running round inside the section without releasing the token. This would presuppose an outer home which would be 440 yds away and off scene. The goods loop starter is fine but I suspect would either be a single disc or a single arm. You don't need both. The inner homes are ok, but you have a double bracket reading over three possible routes. You could consider adding a disc at the foot of this signal to read into the shed. Platform starters look fine. But the disc signal reading from the top platform into the goods loop needs to be combined with the platform starters. Possible this might have been a disc mounted up on the gantry. Yellow discs look good, you don't often see these modelled. As always, there are many ways to skin the cat and lots depends on what movements the traffic department anticipates needing. I am sure others will have different points of view!
  6. Excellent build, I really enjoy these construction videos. It's the sort of thing YouTube does best. Thanks for sharing. You might find that a slightly shorter video would accomplish the same objectives and be even better, perhaps you could condense it to 20 to 30 minutes? I'm looking forward to the next one!
  7. Sounds very simple to me. Just a double track mainline and a junction. No messing about with sidings or stations etc. It's a good approach because you can get things up and running very quickly indeed. And in my experience, getting trains running quickly is key to maintaining enthusiasm. So well done, please post pictures.
  8. Ok, I hope the new one will be ok. We will see. It's a pity that something designed for youngsters to get them into the hobby should apparently be so problematic!
  9. Many thanks. After a frustrating hour soldering upside down, I have now fitted the resistors as per Steve W and all seems now to work perfectly. Thanks again
  10. Thank you for these replies. I think you are both basically saying the same thing that each LED must have it's own resistor. It's just that the first solution has one resistor per LED and the other only has a resistor for the 'active' LED. whilst I am not short of resistors, I'll try the second solution and see what happens. Out with the soldering iron then! Thanks again
  11. Sorry I was unclear. The transformer (power supply) outputs regulated 12v 2amp dc. It is the one supplied by megapoints. As regards the resistors, I am using the 1k supplied by eckon. I could easily use a different one for each aspect if that is what is required. But what values would I need?
  12. Hi there, I am trying to wire up a set of Eckon colour light signals. These are the standard heads but mounted on scratchbuilt posts and gantries. They are: signal 1; platform 1 starter: a standalone 3 aspect signal Signal 2: platform 2/3 starters - 2 x 3 aspect signals mounted on a gantry, wired via a 2 pole 5 way rotary switch such that when 1 signal head is showing green or yellow, then the other is showing red signal 3: home signals - 2 x 2 aspect red/yellow mounted on a gantry wired via a 2 pole 3 way rotary switch such that when 1 head is showing yellow, the other can only show red. i have used a single 1k resistor as supplied by eckon. the power supply is a 12v 2 amp DC smoothed power supply from megapoints. The diagram attached shows the wiring as i have it. All the signals will show red concurrently quite happily. when either of the three signals is connected on its own, all works OK. So i know the continuity is OK. however, when all three signals are connected to the power supply and any signal is switched to yellow or green, although the reds on all the other heads stay lit OK, the yellow or green are so faint as to be virtually undetectable. I'm pretty sure i have enough power as all the five red LEDs light OK. however, to be sure i have tried alternative power supplies without any difference. so i am certain that the power supply is OK. If i switch a signal to yellow or green (very faint) and then i unplug one of other signals then the faint yellow or green begin to glow and if i unplug the third signal, then the yellow/green spring into normal brightness. so why are things not working OK? As the green and yellow LEDS are so faint, i assume i have some current leak somewhere. Do i need additional diodes or should i use individual resistors for each head? is a common return problem? Grateful for all comments and help! Ian
  13. Well actually ,my wife was driving.... I can now name the shop. They were excellent. Friendly and understanding, tested the engine and the replacement which they happily supplied. I can heartily recommend pecorama shop at Beer.
  14. I'm driving to the shop now....
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