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ikcdab

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About ikcdab

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  • Website URL
    https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/157222-charlton-bridge-4mm-brs/

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  • Location
    Taunton, Somerset
  • Interests
    Southern Railway, West Somerset Railway.

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  1. thanks for the reply. presumably if you use a relatively slow-setting epoxy, you can apply the adhesive, then have plenty of time to quater the wheels before the glue goes off. is there a recomended epoxy to use?
  2. This is the best bet. My own area of interest is the Minehead branch. its construction (including the antics of the navvies) and the detailed opening day celebrations is very well documented in the local papers. The most local paper was the West Somerset Free Press that seems to have emerged solely to document the railway construction and later developed into a 'proper' local paper. Back numbers of all can be consulted at the local records office and do make for an absorbing read....not the least of which is the detailed and rather gory accounts of criminal executions....and we think todays pa
  3. I have a couple of chassis to build and I envisage having to fix AGW wheels. I dont have a wheel quartering jig, but I do have a small unimat lathe. I assume I could use this to fix the wheels square and quartered. I can imagine holding a wheel in the four-jaw and the axle in the tailstock to press the axle in square. I can rotate the headstock through 90° But then how best to hold it to press on the other wheel? Has anyone done this?
  4. You don't need PCBs. Just use ordinary veroboard for such simple circuits. Its really cheap to buy from eBay and dead easy to use.
  5. So how does this work then? I have added the fourth wheel and adjusted it to run without binding. How do I then apply the loctite? Is it just smeared over the axle end? Does the loctite have to be between the axle and wheel center?
  6. Thank you. I saw that irwell press have a book about the class. I've just ordered it...
  7. Solely on the strength of the recommendation in this thread, I have ordered one of these DMR Z class kits. Do the instructions tell you what wheels to get? Wikipedia tells me 4' 8" I am looking at the AG website and they have several at 4' 7.5" (which I guess is the same) but lots of variations on spokes and cranks. Though the AG ones seem to be mostly GW rather than southern. Other wheel suppliers seem to be much more costly or have a poor reputation for fulfilling orders. What wheels do I need to get?? Thanks
  8. Thats really helpful, thanks!
  9. https://youtu.be/Bq0aA9RZ1ls
  10. Thank you! My wallet is now lighter after following your link and buying a maunsell coach. And it has already been despatched! Well done Kernow.
  11. I agree with everything that's been said. On my own layout I have gradients of 1 in 70 on 2m radius curves. My diesel locos can cope with everything. Steam locos can take 6 max coaches before slipping. They can take 7 if you drive them carefully. Additional weight has helped a lot. Cramming in as much lead as possible. I designed in the gradients to make the layout more interesting and I'm very glad I did so!
  12. Saw one at Warley 2019. It was 009, really nicely modelled. Can't remember what it was called now.
  13. I think that is the most important thing and why his reviews are worthwhile. We do not want new entrants to be discouraged.
  14. The number of driving wheels comes down to a balance of tractive effort and axle loading. If you only have a light locomotive designed for light duties, then 4 coupled wheels is sufficient tractive effort assuming the axle loading is within limits. If the locomotive of heavier because it is designed for heavier loads, then you need more coupled wheels to spread the axle loading. That's my opinion anyway!
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