ikcdab

Thank you that's very helpful. I was using the manufacturers resin, just the water-based version, and using their published settings. My problem was that one print would be perfect yet the next would fail completely, even with the same settings and print file. I have my fingers crossed that things might have now resolved. Ian

Yes it is funny stuff. Just run a second print with the standard resin and, again, it's perfect. Using water based I can guarantee it would have failed as I never had two successful prints on the trot. So great, I now have renewed enthusiasm for the printer.

The good news is that last night's print run was perfect. Best I've done so far! Coincidence? Or just that i used standard resin rathewr than water-based? Anyway, i am now going to have another go and see if this has the same result. Ian

I've just been out and measured the mortar depth on my bricks. It's only a few mm and in some cases it's flush with the bricks. At 4mm scale that is imperceptible and essentially flat, very akin to printed bricks. I think the greater issue with card kits is the finish which can be shiny. All my card builds are finished with matt varnish and weathered accordingly. My opinion is that the result is more realistic than using embossed plasticard where they mortar depth is vastly over scale. Of course, there are card kits and card kits. In my opinion, the scalescenes kits are the king of kits and top of the range in every way. The 3d effect around the windows and doors etc and the roofing really makes them stand out. And they are very robust indeed. I do not like Metcalf kits because of the corners and the "dolls house" finish to the walls, but I accept than many do. I haven't tried the kits linked in this thread, but these do look flat and rather basic. I urge you to try scalescenes kits and see for yourself how highly authentic they are before dismissing them. There are some pictures of my own versions on my thread.

Thank you to all who have helped here. To be honest, a few months ago I gave up and parked the printer in the cupboard. Trouble is I can't let it rest. So i have now bought a bottle of standard elegoo resin and I have given up with the water based. I will try again with the standard resin and see what happens. Ian

When the company's assets were disposed of, then the copyright would have been accounted for then. And if the business of the company was selling images, then they will have made sure that the copyright issue was covered. If you have bought the slides, then there will be a copyright marking on the slides. It's tough, but if you want you reproduce them commercially (ie not for private use) then you will need to track down the current owner. This is a very difficult situation if the current owner cannot be found. You could just take the approach that you will use the slides as you wish, and if anyone challenges you then deal with it then. Most people are reasonable and will understand the situation if you do it sensibly. It all depends on what you want to do with the images.

Is the battery ok?

Haha clever with with the maths there. You are right that 20% isn't being knocked off of the £12, but it's the 20% of the £10 that is being removed. Whatever what you look at it, you areb saving the 20% VAT.

I assume that purchasers in Australia don't pay UK vat , so in effect, get a 20% reduction on the prices showing in hattons website? If so, then a "mere" 10% increase is still a saving. Though I admit that the shipping costs make my eyes water.

Just found this thread and it's looking good. I see yourb comments about the price of timber. It's down the for flakes embedded in it. But the baseboard is the most important thing. Without a decent foundation, the whole layout is in jeapordy. You have done the right thing, but on other threads I have seen people baulk at spending £150 on timber for a decent baseboard, but will happily shell out the same amount for a single locomotive.

Yes. Years ago I used to live in Feltham and EMA model supplies had a shop in the precinct. They sold plasticweld under their own brand. It is several orders of magnitude stronger than mekpak and if you use too much, it will just melt your kit.

Standard mekpak. Also known as butanone.

Sounds an interesting episode. Is it on line anywhere to view now?

Crikey. I navigated my way around all weekend perfectly well without having to refer to stand numbers once. You just follow the map and after you have walked round once, it's all pretty familiar. These things easily get lost during breakdown and it is a pain to reprint every year, so I have every sympathy.

We have always had dogs and currently hage a 5-year old whippet. We now want to add a cat to the family and plan to get a kitten in the new year. What will be the best way to introduce the dog to the kitten so that they don't kill each other? Ian

Your confusing me... Gillingham Dorset is hard G Gillingham Kent is soft G

It's non-profit making in the sense that any surplus goes to support the club or fund next year's show. It isn't a "commercial" business and there are not shareholders taking a return from profits.

I can understand why you feel miffed, you told them what your rates were up front. However, I am surprised that Warley didn't then try and find someone else who was not quite so extortionate. 45p a mile does seem a very high rate for what is essentially a non-profit making exhibition organised by a model railway club...albeit a big one.

All this new innovation, lamps, synchronised smoke, wheel squeel etc.... Yet still no locomotive crews! Such a simple and cheap thing to fit, yet the overwhelming majority of RTR engines run around with ghost drivers....

Don't be so quick to dismiss this one. It has an interesting history. Keinton Madeville was a quarrying centre and a tramway to link it to Castle Cary station was proposed about 1890. Funding difficulties resulted in a longer (and more attractive) line being presented to the BoT in 1892, this is the line you saw on the map with the link to Evercreech. An Act was obtained in 1893 and construction started in 1894. By 1895, all of the branches and the extension to Evercreech had been abandoned as too expensive and only the Castle Cary to Keinton section remained. The local newspaper reports construction was in hand, but there is some debate as to how far it got. It was a roadside line and there is evidence to suggest that it was being used in late 1896 as a newspaper report tells of wagons being hauled by horses along the tramway. The GWR acquired all of the shares in 1897 and the local newspaper reported in March 1899 that the "Keinton tramway has now been finally abandoned". As noted above, the GWR then embarked on thae Castle Cary to Durston cutoff which opened in 1905.

Are you storing it (as you say) or building it and operating it there? Two totally different things. If just storing it, then wrap it up well in polythene or in secure boxes. If you want to build and operate your railway there, then that's a different question...

Hi there, thanks for that helpful reply. I am only doing a simple 0-4-0 to try and get one success under the belt. So far I have fixed the wheels on the unpowered axle. I found the wheels a very tight fit on the axles and I used a small machine vice to press them on. I have added one wheel to the powered axle and inserted it through the drive gear. I have fixed the coupling rod on one side and so I just have to press on the final wheel. So.... It is just a case of aligning the wheel by eye, pressing it on, adding the rod then testing. And if necessary, twisting the wheel round by trial and error until it runs smoothly?

BBC News - Worn-out tracks cause railway line closure https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-dorset-67524633 Seems like just over a mile of track has to be replaced. It's taking 16 days..... Only last week I watched this.... Seems like back 60 years ago a half mile(?) length was done on one Sunday.... Why does this new relay really take so long? I know they are also cutting vegetation etc, but that can happen at the same time.... Ian

I use Fry's fluxite for everything and have done for 40 years. Lasts for ever, I'm only on my second or third tin now. Works like magic.

Fantastic to you for handbuilding track. Norman knows his stuff FB turnouts are not easy, all aspects are complicated by the rail cross-section! There is a reason why the prototype continued with bullhead turnouts combined with FB plain track. I'm not sure what era you are modelling, I suggest you might wish to follow prototype practice and stick with BH turnouts on your mainline. Ian