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peach james

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  • Location
    Victoria, BC
  • Interests
    BR steam, S&C
    Live Steam
    Lego trains

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  1. Jeff, Look at it like the loco bodies, and the DAS clay- just because you might be able to whip up a batch of ABS in a spare beaker and machine a mold from steel you founded your self, doesn't mean you chose to do so ! I too had considered how to raise that it might produce a more finished result by asking for help. This isn't a knock at all- nor is it a knock if you decide to go it your own way. In that sense, this is YOUR layout not a club layout, where getting the best person for the job is important. Because said scenic painting is removable, I'd consider doing ex
  2. Up here in Canada, the problem is far worse- witness Dibber25's comments on The Canadian, and if you watch "The Platforum", the recent one with the two DS's went into some depth of the problems that are happening with the 10 000' long (yes, basically 2 miles...) freights up here and 8000' sidings. I'd like to take The Canadian again, not sure if it is going to happen or not. James
  3. I had a reply from Rapido (I was the one who asked the Q...) If you are in North America, send an Email to Dan Garcia (dgarcia rapidotrains.com) for now. James
  4. I'm waiting for the post: Drat, I've stuck my fingers together. Now they are stuck to the computerrrrrrrrrrrrrrr :)
  5. Even if you are not planning on doing auto repair...that is one of few mistakes I made when I built the (17'6"x24'6") addition on my house. Note: the 24'6" was determined by layout lengths !. At some point I am going to end up with the problem of getting the 40" wide steam Traction Engine in through the 36" wide door. Oops ! I'd also recommend, quite highly, building the layout as sectional. Because that way, when you "need" to get behind bits of it, or above it, you can spend the day or two to dismantle the layout to do so. Presently Long Marton is stored like so, awaiting me doing
  6. OK, so you have 30x30 available. You want to be able to "run" longer trains, of at least 3 different styles. How much height are you planning? If you are starting from 0, then a 3m, or even 3.3m (9 or 10') tall room would definitely add to the available space, at comparatively limited costs (about 4.5 m^3 of concrete per foot height...or probably about $2000/ft height...given that the floor space is worth about $135 000, that's cheap...) If I could, I would start with where the stairs are going to come down into the basement- and if I could, I'd start with a plan that allows at l
  7. Yes, one can get some quite big 2' gauge locos... It's a 93 000 lb 0-4-0 on 2' gauge. 16 000 lb Tractive Effort...
  8. Perhaps being long enough ex-pat, and having moved here when I was 4, my expectation was different when I walked into John's Photo & Hobby, or Georges Trains, or Southern, or Hobbytime, or BC Shaver, or mail ordered from Model Railway Imports, The British Connection, Britannia, or the guys in the North Shore (who had Bachmann for a while). I never expected that ONE supplier would have everything I wanted, and that things like grass flock would come from Woodland Scenics, my controller from MRC (Tech 2, 2400), my electrical from Atlas, track from Atlas (or other suppliers if money was tigh
  9. While not "complete range", Rapido have made: track, scenic elements, paint, locos (steam, Diesel & Electric), passenger stock (including DMU's), freight stock, DCC decoders- basically, more than say was ever offered in TT. The only thing Rapido has not made is a control system, and that's because they are quite happy with NCE's products... I wouldn't consider Rapido a "small" manufacturer any more...
  10. They do exist...most in Brass by various makers. Expect to pay >$600 for them, and for them to run like a dog of the worst order...at least for the older ones. Ebay USA/Canada is your friend for this kind of thing.
  11. If you go back and look, you can find some photos of Jeff's earlier work, and it looks like mine...to say, not that well done. What it takes is time, and the willingness to go back and redo until you are happy. (by "earlier work", I mean pre KL 1, not even KL 1...) One area which has resulted in huge changes is taking photos- it's basically free to take photos of what you have done, so do so, and look at them in comparison to photos of the real thing. That's telling ! James (who at times feels the same way...)
  12. So, progress over the last little bit: Getting better tools by Peach James, on Flickr I went to Princess Auto ("we're not satisified, till YOU'RE not satisifed !") and bought a new welder. What a difference having 2x the power makes. Then made up the track for crossing the driveway: Which will likely be the only 20' section of track, and the only one with angle iron used for track. It distorted when I was welding it- so I'm going to have to make up a pair of short 30' curves to bring the track back to straight at least on the house side. Then, we
  13. The image I wanted to use was (but apparently I was a numpty and posted something else in, and it's too late to edit it...) When I saw the one with the sheep on top (the top photo, in the middle), I had assumed that the spoil was level outwards. I'm a bit shocked that the contractor would do it that way, because it would seem easier to me to have dug off the tops of the hillocks and dumped down hill, even at the expense of moving more material. Someone did a time/motion guess and came up with what they did though... the middle one with the sheep on it, that's quite the pile of dirt
  14. Jeff, I know- it's your railway...but the contractor wouldn't have lifted the dirt up the hill to dump it. It'd be cheaper to work it out the end of the cutting, and dump it out there than to lift it up. gives a good idea of what they did in real life. I know, the spoil hills would cascade into the asleway, but that's because the contractor was out to make a bob on the whole project
  15. Jeff, I doth protest ! Age of inner child is stuck firmly at 7. Just old enough under the old rules to play run a small steam plant, and plug things into the wall . How else would I have built the new roller coaster, and forgot to connect the track, creating a slight problem of a doom plunge? It's been fixed, but I haven't the time to make it work yet...and may need revising to work as per Ffestiniog from the top of the hill to the bottom... Currently working, Currently at work, on RMWeb, James
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