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peach james

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  • Location
    Victoria, BC
  • Interests
    BR steam, S&C
    Live Steam
    Lego trains

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  1. You can cut a hole into the door face, and re-inforce around the opening with thin material- either plastic or wood, depending on available materials. Think of it like an I beam, you can drill through the middle axis, but try to leave as much meat as possible. I would think that the 9 gram servos would sit inside a door OK, so you should be able to operate Peco points via a linkage and the servo mounted in the door. I do similar in the foam that I use, James
  2. Remember you should be able to tip the layout onto it's side to get it out a doorway... I manage 3' baseboards through 24" doorways easy enough with a helper... I'd second an interior door as an easy solution to a "flat" surface layout. I went a different road with Long Marton, but it all does depend. Long Marton consists of styrofoam on plywood, T section'd 19mm plywood edges, lots of work on a table saw, but produced fairly solid baseboards...at the expense of about 5 days of woodworking to make the baseboards up. James
  3. Ya. Don't. My experience with the DS54's is that they kind of work. And they KIND of remember their addresses. And they take a lot of reprogramming when the memory goes away... If they are _free_, then it might make sense, but otherwise, no. DS44's are far better for Torti. They _do_ have a limit of a single torti per access, but are fairly cheep. Alternatives are available (NCE make one too...) James
  4. On a 10x5 layout, you can get away with (*) a single set of feeders per loop almost 100% certainly. The track complexity will determine if you need more than that. Using Electrofrog turnouts means that you would need more feeds/wiring, but will work better. The big advantage of DCC is that on something like a 10x5 layout, all you need is an inside and an outside rail supply, and then all you have to do is figure if the rail is inside, or outside. And if you are reasonably sensible, and test in stages, you can do it via "does wire make nasty sound" method :). I know, because that's how the Lego gets wired ! (and quite often, a lot bigger than 10x5 loops...) If you intent to _only ever_ have one loco on the layout, then DC is simpler. As soon as you want to have a 2nd loco _stopped_ on the layout, I think DCC has it hands down. If you want sound, or lights in coaches, then DCC is for practical purposes, the way to go at this time. Which Controller? Best advice is above- go try them at a model shop that sells more than one brand. A 10x5 layout is something which most of the major brands will do just fine on, unless you intend on having 38 sound equipped locos sitting in a TMD in the middle of the whole lot... I'd also recommend finding and joining a local club/group of fellow travelers. It makes it more fun. (*) it might work, but isn't a great practice... I'd probably use 2 feeds & a bus from end-end. I'd also probably just wire turnouts and any other fancyness (building lights) back to a manual panel, not using DCC. At 5x10, there's not a lot to be gained by running them into DCC _unless_ you intend to computer control, which is a different kettle again ! James (on the wet coast of the west coast...)
  5. Pete, 4472 should be far bigger than 6.9 Bar/L, as a LBSC Britannia in 3.5 is at least 4L*3bar (well, 80 PSI, so closer to 4 bar) or 16 Bar/L. My big Fowler is about 28L capacity, and 160 PSI so 299 Bar/L, and is exempt here (being BC, Canada), as it is done by heating surface here for the exemption. (but not the club test...) however, as I hold a 3rd class Power ticket, the club test really is worth less than the paper it would be written on. I have to satisfy myself and my insurance though. I'm at work with a pair of 600 HP/ 300m^2 boilers right now. There are 3 in the building, but one is tubeless...
  6. Quite often I ended up with either the club layout or the lego in my trailer, which is a 5x10' "landscapers" trailer. The other load for it is my big Fowler (1600 lb), so the suspension on a single axle is rather firm... I've not seen problems of things getting shaken to death. But, perhaps it is because I already expect some damage every time that a layout is taken to a show, so, have a lower expectation than others. The present setup for the Lego relies heavily on the van, in that I have made a set of boxes which fit into the van body to hold large quantities of 10" modules. (32x32 baseplates, if you are a lego guy...). That being said, the trailer often ends up with the club's collection of tables (14) + whatever else I can scrape up (3 more, at least...), stanchions (heavy @#[email protected]#$ ones, because kids push on them...), and the oversized MOC's. (typically, bridges...). There is a reason why my "white" bridge is more a dirty white than clean white... If I had the $, I would be using what over here is called a "Toy Hauler", which consists of a caravan with a rear folding ramp, that you can stick up to typically, 10'x6'x6' of cargo into. (a Razr/similar side by side...). The issue is that I'd find it hard to justify the $30 000 of one for the amount of use I have done with the van/trailer combo I own. James
  7. $400 CAD to travel Toronto-Vancouver by VIA Coach. It's slightly more if you want a sleeper...($1100). (booking for Jan 26th, Van-Toronto, as of today) Consider you are traveling 4500 km. So, as far as from London to Toronto by air... I don't think those are unreasonable costs. about 20 pence/km. Including food, for 4 days. It is a way you will _see_ Canada, whereas flying over you don't get just how massive the country is. Likely there will be a musician traveling with you, so you get a concert every day too, and you get to view all of Canada. I'd do it again, but have to work still... (I have done both east and west on #1 & 2) James
  8. Yes there is...being the fire department that responds to the 2nd call out at the same address that you declared was fire free...good thing, it hasn't happened to me yet. The Tudor House in Esquimalt had the fire department in 3 days before it burned to the ground...they knew there was a fire, but couldn't find it anywhere. City of Victoria did it to a hotel in the not distant past too... (not the one downtown earlier in the year) In seriousness, a fire extinguisher will work very well on an incipient fire start that is observed. Like dropping the blowtorch onto something and having it light, or a kitchen fire that starts on the stove. It won't work on a fire that has gotten into the structure of the house...and if there is any doubt, call for the fire department. There is NOTHING in your house worth someone's life... Proudly volunteering for 15 years, Lt James Powell, Shirley Volunteer Fire Department, Shirley BC
  9. Zomboid, if they are before the driving wheels, it gives time to grind the sand down a little bit in the interface, and aid the traction. If it is after the driven wheels...well, nope, I've got nothing... James
  10. DIY would probably be the only way to get 10 cm long turnouts, and they are going to be quite vicious at 10cm long (3"). I'd think that a stub switch may be the only way to get to that sort of short. You could look at the trackwork on "Bronx Terminal" to get some idea of what is workable. That being said, expect to limit your choices of coupler, connected vehicle, and wheelbase to manage 3" long turnouts from toe to past frog. http://www.bronx-terminal.com/
  11. I'd assume I've been in there too, there are 3 or 4 right by Yodobashi Camera. My fireless Lilliput came from there, even though the exchange rate was @#[email protected]#$, I liked it and bought it. Same trip my mate and I went to Aster in Yokohama, he came home with a C16 in a damaged box, I did the customs form for it (duty free, he had to pay taxes though...). I brought home some Tamyia 10mm plastic meccano for building stuff on Long Marton with, a T gauge layout & the fireless... It's not that far from here though..."only" 7500 km, rather than the 11800 km to Dubai
  12. It's the same thing with me- I'm using 5.0 because what I _need_ the software side to do is to run what amounts to Ladder Logic. I can manage the rest of the programming from that, thank you very much, so either JMRI or Itrain are both possible solutions now. (they weren't so much in 2003-5 timeframe) Way back when I had a HDD issue, and lost my copy of 5.0, I asked on the RR&Co forums for someone to email me a copy of the software (not the key !), so that I could continue to use what I had legally purchased the rights to use. Juergen lost his marbles over it- said I "had" to upgrade to 7.0, that it was required that I do so. Even though the software licence I have specifically says that distribution of the software without a key is encouraged, because of the 15 minute connection time limit and offer to purchase. Herr Friedwald said that there was a more recent licence, and that the ^ was no longer valid. Sorry, my purchase agreement is what stands, not what you say now... Someone sent me the 5.0C4 release, and I have made sure to back it up all over the place, not just on one computer now... James
  13. What a small minded man Juergen is. I'm glad I have my copy of 5.0C4, and haven't spent any further money with him. I will write off the investment completely and learn another system when 5.0C4 stops working for me. James
  14. Simon, 1: Wonderful to see credit given to Allan- I am sure he'd be right in it with you if he was still with us. 2: Nice to see a Dent (S&C) mug -in honesty, you are cracking along at a super rate, and doing so in a way which is a total credit to the people who have done work for you, and that you are acknowledging. Heaton Lodge will be your layout, of that there is no doubt, but you are free and honest about who has worked on it for you. I have a huge amount of respect for you over that- track by Peco, Locos by Heljan, Wagons by Dapol, baseboards by Tim Horn, bridges by Allan and Simon is the designer, chief bottle washer and shareholder. I will look into flights to England timed to Warley to see HLJ. I've no idea what my work schedule for next year looks like yet, but this is a seriously impressive bit of modeling. I don't "do" 0 gauge- I have the Lego which is about the same size, and my wife will eventually kill me if I get too many scales, but I can appreciate the modeling. James
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