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peach james

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  • Location
    Victoria, BC
  • Interests
    BR steam, S&C
    Live Steam
    Lego trains

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  1. It's my scheme with Long Marton- the backscene is being redone right now, before I get to the ceiling of the basement (which has to come down, see LM thread for why). The intent is to paint the plywood liner (it's 5.2mm ply, which I've chosen use to replace the original 1/2" shiplap), with blue above the layout edge, and green below it. The overhead will be in white or light blue. I think that I will end up with cloth coverings draping down from the overhead, and cabinets hidden by the cloth. I'm still thinking about how to do this, in that I need a bunch of the space for storage of
  2. There are a couple of options- I think MSC make a lever frame without interlocking: https://www.wizardmodels.ltd/shop/signals/sm2/ That one will give a fair feel of a signalbox, but does not include interlocking. If you _know_ what you want, or have a reasonable design (for example, a passing loop), then I would highly recommend https://modratec.com/index.php which is an interlocking system that works well. The missing part of it is the latching on the lever. James
  3. I stole mine...from my sister ! When we were in Mold, she conned dad (^) into giving her "lion money" & "Paper Money" & a few pence, and then proclamed that she was going to the shop to buy the above Faller railcar !. (I'd have to assume it was 1.53 or suchlike) We moved to Canada in 1979, that photo is in the house my parents had from 80-82, so I would be 4 in the photo. Last I saw of the Faller, it is in a box in my sister's basement, and still works. Dad had a moderate amount of Tri-ang, and I was given a Lord of the Isles in probably 82-83 that I
  4. Current state of play: Yes, Long Marton has been taken into its sections, and is moving. I've got to do some work on the house, so the railway has to move.
  5. I'm using 10k Ohm on single axles and get reliable detection with both BDL 168's and BD4/DS 64's. That works out at about 1.5mA unless my math skills have gone wonky. I have a couple which will set the wrong way on startup occasionally- the trick I find is to have a brake van with the resistor that I can pick up, plop on the track section that is marked as "hot", then remove, and that clears them. I know which sections are likely to do that, and they usually result in trains moving then stopping after a couple of feet on first start up. James
  6. That's how many sonarbouys the Russians dropped in the GIUK gap "A man could walk from Greenland, to Iceland, to England, without getting his feet wet"
  7. Daft q, not owning a 602, have you tried https://www.digitrax.com/tsd/KB730/dt400-series-throttles-make-f2-latching-or-non-lat/ on both F2 and on another F# ? Not sure that it will work, but worth a try... James
  8. Equally, would it be ethical for you to have knowledge, keep said knowledge to yourself, knowing that said knowledge is from a small pool, and then complain about a product after it is to market? I can understand why KR Models might NOT have wanted to go to Michael Edge about the Fell- it cost Michael time (and probably money) to get the expertise he has, and he is marketing a competing product...so said knowledge has value to Michael. But it doesn't appear as though you have a model business making the Tyne Dock hoppers... I have more of a business offering than you do for them
  9. Coal is a subject near and dear to those of us who have to burn the stuff in models... Dad figured the last good welsh coal he saw was in 1964. That would be burning it in a Sentinel waggon- I'd presume in 8122/OF rather than Yarna (7529) by then. The best coal for any purpose is of course, determined by the sucker who has to do the work with the object, and the person paying the bills. Quality of coal was a major driver behind The Red Devil in South Africa- Wardsdale's writing is quite interesting on it. A quite serious % of the total trip miles in SA were for loco coal.
  10. Things are afoot inside- unfortunately, not in a positive direction yet. I have to move all of Long Marton out of it's home, into wherever around the place I can move bits. I've gotten the 3 staging boards apart, next will be the New Biggin curves coming out. Why? I have to get a plumber in to run propane (Calor gas) in the house. I need to replace my furnace, which means I need to go to direct vented, which means it has to go to Propane (no piped gas out here...). It's been on the long term list since about oh, 2010, that I should get a bunch of house related bits d
  11. WW&F is 8:30 from Halifax, as is SR&RL. I think both of them have steam, though you can't get there from here right now...(and it would take 14d:8h:30m on your return !). If it's steam you are interested in, not rail steam, HMCS Sackville is always looking for interested people. I have the contact details I have only the 3' gauge steam & diesel @ Duncan, or the SRI(VI) freight ops on Vancouver Island...and 3.5>7.5" at SHAS) There is also https://trecothiccreekandwindsorrailway.ca/ which might have steam rides on 7.x gauge... This is
  12. All this from a man who takes photos of the moon at night ! --------------- The roof insulation structure- when you have gotten the other side rafters into place, then I would expect there to be relatively little loading going from the wood to the metal structure of the building. Unless the code requirements are really really different between the UK and here (and, IIRC, Jeff is somewhere north of Barrow...), then the roof structure is designed around a loading of 150 kg/m^3 or so. (snow loading). That ironmongery should be strong enough. The way I w
  13. Take a look at my thread (in the bottom) as Long Marton is run that way. I went with a combination of electric and mechanical interlocking- the original ideas I had schemed out used mostly electrical interlocking, but because Modratrac make the kits for interlocking, it became practical for me to make a mechanical box, which then interfaces with the electrics. I'd be happy to discuss what I have been taught, and learned, with doing Long Marton. James
  14. I have a bunch of Kato N gauge unitrack. It's not that realistic- but neither are any of the alternatives. There are several systems that are like it (or it is like), probably the best direct one is Bachmann EZ track. If you are stuck with a layout that has to be taken apart, I think it is a good option. I would investigate in OO Bachmann EZ track, as the range in HO/OO of Kato is more limited. https://shop.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=258_366_367&sort=20a&page=1&zenid=kpoqjc4a383sv2pgsog17mupl5 (in N, I think Kato wins hands down...but movi
  15. These questions have been answered before on here, use the search function to get more details: First question though is about points – I understand there can be some problems with shorts and I have 40 Insulfrog points that I don’t want to throw away or spend a lot of time modifying. Is shorting a serious problem? I have a mixture of steam era Bachmann and Hornby (tender drive) locos that I plan to modify as appropriate. Depends on system. Ideal wiring vs what works are 2 different things Matching the 40 points I have 40 PM2’s that I plan to install and wir
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