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peach james

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  • Location
    Victoria, BC
  • Interests
    BR steam, S&C
    Live Steam
    Lego trains

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  1. Here is one: https://themodelrailwaydotshow.wordpress.com/2018/07/06/cue-the-train/ James
  2. Interesting ! A model "of" a railway, rather than a model railway...which is quite a bit different than most. It's not an approach I can recall seeing- the view being from behind (18" ?) of hill, and down into the station rather than the far more traditional station on the front side. I will follow this with some interest, as it it certainly should look good, James
  3. Ah, in N gauge...which makes the curves far more reasonable than in OO ! I am liking how this looks, even in quite low resolution. I assume the fiddle yard will normally be covered over with a cloth on the front ? Then it is easy to access, but is off stage to the station ? The baseboard construction looks really neat, that is an advantage of using professionals to construct it. James
  4. So, I was wrong- Alberta is on 1S68 (Thames-Clyde). I shortened the formation by one SK, so it is BSK-4xSK, SO, RU, FK, CK, BSK, all in Blood and Custard. (It's train #1 of my passenger trains- I have 5 UK long distance passenger trains) I also had to fix Alberta- apparently the oil all ran out... (oh, wait, that's a Canadian joke...). The glue holding the rear cylinder mounting on one side had failed, so I had motion bits hanging around and wacking things that they weren't supposed to ! Now superglued back on, without the motion getting any in it. I have a similar problem to Mike, in that the Jub is a bit light on it's feet. It has a piece of sheet lead in the cab floor, which helps, but could do with more weight. I find it struggles something fierce on the curves, rather than the inadvertent grades. It manages the about 1:100 that exists through Long Marton fine, but starting from the storage tracks is problematic, and then the hump on the way back to the staging can produce problems, but usually there is enough momentum to make it. Speed is a key part with XP engines- they have more power than weight. Certainly I am used to it in the bigger engine (my Britannia in 3.5"), where it will merrily slip and slip and slip all day long even up to about 8 MPH. You have to _drive_ it to get the best performance ! James
  5. DO NOT mix the two at the same time...unless you wish to throw out money. You "can" run a single analog loco on some DCC systems, but it is undoubtly hard on the motor to do so. Now, if you have a 100% seperate loop, you can do it. It needs to be 100% electrically seperate, and NEVER the two shall meet. IMO, once you have started playing running trains on DCC, you will likely not want to go back to analog. I know that I am going to be stripping most of the wiring off our club layout to make it a pure DCC layout, because it's way easier to fault find that way... Exceptions: One loco in steam ever branch lines. So say, a 1x4' layout...that it doesn't matter, dcc/dc/string, all work about the same But once you get to having 2 locos running at once, then block sections become annoying. James
  6. Mike, I'll try to remember to have a look on Youtube when I am home- I'm about to be laid off for the summer, so it's back to being at home full time. I don't have a schedule set for Long Marton- I have the major named trains, but the operation is based on random order, not a schedule. I ran trains on Friday, but it really does need me running them on a regular basis rather than the very occasional way that I tend towards. So, it is entirely possible to get them out of sequence. The way the computer chooses is basically 1 dmu/1 goods/1 passenger, and the train in the up direction recycles to the staging yard about 1/2 of the time. My Signal Box Lad had a 4-1 (Condor) , 4 (I know Alberta is the loco-and I don't think its 1S68) , 3-1-3 (the modern 153 in S&C vinyl) to deal with...all up. Down should work, but it hasn't had as much running as up, and the track near Appleby is giving issues... (AKA the staging yard out line needs cleaning !) The most noticable is wheel and track cleaning- if the layout is run regularly, then cleaning becomes less of a problem. Given how the computer controls the trains, that makes a huge difference to the enjoyment of running. (I'd been hoping to get to run another batch on Saturday night when I got home, but then I had to deal with a 14 year old, who now owes ME a book report...never mind what school wants, dad has his own ways of filling time if research in devilment is what you do !) James
  7. Some of us figured out how to elk out the very last of steam in the west- my ticket is one of the last 5 that were issued in anger by the Canadian Forces. (as in, we were supposed to steam them...I never did on ship but it's handy now !). Went to China in 2008 on the ship, didn't see much because Big Gray Boat Line said we had to stay in Quingdao. Anyway... I'm still reading this thread, and I get how hard it can be to have an exibition only layout. I still have to contemplate what to do with Long Marton, in that I _could_ make it exibitable, but a fight would be had, and I'd have to get all the bits ready, test them relatively close to home, then take it 4000 km to show it proper...which seems like a _lot_ of work. If #2 son decides to become more interested, I might... Of course now, all bets are off...goodness knows what an exhibition will look like post COVID. James
  8. Because I have an extensive "set track" layout in the form of Lego 9V, I have a bit of a combination of approaches: 1. Feeding a seperate accessory bus is a good idea, running all stationary decoders off it. 2: Use some 5A or so DPST switchs on the track bus, to divide the track bus into 2-3 large sections (50-200 sq ft) to allow for fault finding. Because of how modular the lego wiring is, it can be possible to end up with shorts in all kinds of interesting places- not to mention that the 20 year old wires are somewhat prone to having insulation fall off now ! I have no DCC'd turnouts on the Lego, they are all at present hand thrown. Long Marton is mostly wired without an accessory bus, and runs into the problem of turnout shorts resulting in hand shunting of trains to clear the short. However, that can mostly be avoided by using the software run approach to avoid running trains into turnouts set against- it doesn't happen very often in "auto", though you do have to remember to change all the turnouts after operating without the computer. So, 2 bus's, and then divide the track bus into sections that make sense- if you have a large yard area, a seperate breaker feeding that "branch" is a good idea as articulated above.
  9. Otter Valley Railroad is showing them in stock as single or 6 packs. As is Tony's Train Exchange (1/6/12 packs, 12 pack is $163 USD) So available, just not in the UK right now? I've found both of the above very good for shipping further than to the UK... James
  10. The one closest the camera is the one my grand-dad bought and had restored in 1959. Yes, those ones were Super's, but there were some of all the Sentinel products still around at that point. One of the largest by # of late fleets was of standard (pre 1921) waggons used in a steel mill.
  11. More trees made. I made one using F55 ("early fall"), and it is so tempting...but no...I think it will go live somewhere else, like on the planned 6' board for the club layout. (I'll probably have to make more though...but that is a next fall project now, I think...) I see Peco are back to making track. I'll wait till my favorite wirrel store has stock and then contemplate my navy...er naval, and see how far the $ stretches. That too, may get pushed off till the fall when I get back to work. (I have about 3 weeks left before the end of heating season, and still have bills to pay which are more important than modeling supplies...I have coaches I can work on though...) James
  12. True. As long as it is DC. Don't try pulsed power- for example, North American MRC Tech 3/4 power packs are horrible at frying decoders. I know, because I toasted 3-4 of them with them, including a Lenz. As for having oops'd DC and DCC- I've managed that trick, and everything survived, by good luck. But it is way best not to have DC and DCC anywhere near each other. Unfortunately, I often end up having to with the Lego...and it is done under some haste usually for wiring... James
  13. Here's the thing though- the Fell was only ever one loco. I really doubt that anyone else is going to try to make a OO model of the Fell, into the fairly distant future. There is the Judith Edge kit for it, and then there will be the KR Models RTR version(s). If it was me, I would be taking the approach of making it as accurate as practical for one of the two major periods (pre or post inside conrods), and then producing the alternate as close to right. The body shell should be bang on, because...well, there was no major differences in size made. The grill arrangements won't be 100% right for one arrangement- though with reasonable design work, they can be changed. (costs money though...which might rule it out). Having a body shell which is as close to 100% accurate in major dimensions, and a mechanism that works, would mean that if you are desperate to model the other one, use a combination of the Judith Edge kit to build the body, and the KR models chassis, or build the JE kit. I think that for 90+% of us, a model which is fundamentally dimensionally accurate, and has identified detail changes that weren't done in the model, would still float. This isn't like the class 47's, where the detail differences are on a hundred locos, that everyone "needs" to have. This is detail differences that can be hard to spot (see Micheal's comment upthread), and very tricky to date/locate. If you follow Rapido, they have discussed similar with the PA2's, and what the problems are there. I suspect there are more modelers interested in a Santa Fe PA2, than there are in UK modelers interested in the Fell. Your mileage may vary. Don't spend your money on it if you don't like it...
  14. I've been running trains- one thing I have found helpful is now the big lad is big enough to almost be useful, some of the time :). Long Marton works better if there is someone on both sides, because then I don't have to duck under when a train derails entering the staging yard. There are a couple places I am aware of problems, I need to video to see if I can figure out exactly where the problems are then shim/pack track to adjust. I ran through about 1/2 of the trains yesterday, with none planned for today as I am at work. The big lad setup my Kato Unitrack and the Pendolino (Rapido/ revolutioN), so that's on the floor under the lego right now. I found out I need more unitrack than I have...that's a shock !, so ordered some more. More trees have been made than in the photo above, and I have been mucking around with the static grass. I still can't get tall grass to stand up well- I can see a bit of a strip & retry will be required for one area, as it is getting very overgrown with fallen down grass. (it's the sightline in the forest...I want to be able to see the trains occasionally !) James
  15. I'd look for something that can work as a table in the event that Railway Modeling isn't his thing, and he prefers Lego, or D&D, or something else. Get something that is a reasonable height off the floor...otherwise the complaints will be fairly ug!. My 10 year old has what used to be his crib converted to a table surface that his OO9 lives on, under a layer of "other stuff"... The other option might be to look at one of the more modular rail systems (Bachmann E-Z track/Kato/Tuling/Hornby Doblo 3 rail...) instead of sectional track. Depends on age of youth, interest, and desire to make a permanent layout in room. James
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