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richard carr

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  1. Slaters offer suitable replacement springs such as their buffer springs in packs of 12.
  2. Brian This looks great, all your posts will save me hours when I get round to building mine. Richard
  3. If you really want to save some money on a decoder then remove one of the motors by loosening the screws on the side of the bogie and pull it out. Then you can safely fit a loksound or zimo decoder that costs less than £100. The loco will still pull a 10 coach train and draws about 800 mA at full speed. Richard
  4. And to add to Norman's good advice, for the lights the black wires go to the individual functions and the red wires are the common. The latest 37 is a retro grade step for Heljan as far as fitting DCC is concerned. All recent models had a pcb with screw terminals and it was easy to see where everything went this one has gone back to the plug in connectors which really just makes it awkward to a fit a decoder. Richard
  5. One way to ease the problem with Heljan locos is to remove one of the motors. It's easy to do there are 2 screws in the side of the bogie near the motor (you need to remove the body first) just loosen them and the motor will pull out. It also means that you can use a much cheaper decoder (sound or non sound) I have done it to my Heljan 37 and it still pulls 10 bogie wagons and 5 four wheel wagons with ease. It has a zimo MX645 decoder fitted rated at 1.2 amps continous. It draws about half an amp or less a moderate speeds with that load. Richard
  6. I would say yes you will need to replace the lighting board I can't see any way that you can control them individually. It might be possible to cut the pcb circuit and rewire but equally why would you want to. Use the discs to hide the lights you don't want showing. RIchard
  7. Jeff I was extracting my class 40 wheels last night and I think I have done just the same as you with the pony truck it appears to have snapped off on one of the bogies, the other end came out fine. They certainly are a bit of bu**er to remove. Richard
  8. Having converted several Heljan locos to S7 it is very easy to adjust the back to back of the axles. Just unscrew the bogie cover plate and the wheels sets will drop out, carefully twist the wheels and one of them should start to move, you will then be able to move it to the correct position of 29.2mm. Pop the wheels back in, make sure the bearings are seated correctly and then screw the cover plate back on. It should n't take more than half an hour even if you have never done it before. If the back to back is narrow your loco will only derail going through point work, if they are slightly wide you should be fine. Richard
  9. My experience is that the tolerance on slaters wheels is in the 2 to 3 thou range. This shows itself quite clearly in lathe but in practice has no impact on the running of your loco. Slaters wheels run fine so long as you take the trouble to get the wheel sitting well on the axle. Richard
  10. Graham I was just pointing out the cost of the V4 to an Xl which isn't that different as a stay alive equipped V4 is about £130, £96 for the chip and £34 for the ESU power pack. Yes the the length of the push rods isn't helpful for any kind of chassis, but for the resin chassis should a brake touch the wheel it doesn't cause a short so they only require a little bit of filing to fix, for my brass chassis I resorted to getting my own longer version etched. Richard
  11. The Loksound XL4 has the stay alive circuitry built in you can see the 2 capacitors on the board and it definitely works in my Deltic. Brain Clapperton has his views on Loksound chips but they are not the same as mine, I'm using a loksound V4 with 2 ABC maxon powered gearboxes wired in parallel on my 37 and it all works just fine with a large 4 ohm speaker. I will fit a stay alive to this in due course but its running without one now. The power bogies from ABC that I have seen have all been powered by mashima motors, I'm not sure that a single loksound V4 would be able to power 2 of those without overload, but it might. I know of others who have used a V4 to power both motors in parallel on Heljan locos, I'm going to try this on one shortly but it might turn out to be an expensive experiment. I also don't think that the ABC power bogie offers any advantage over the JLTRT resin bogie and delrin chain. Graham, how are you going to fit the brakes and get sufficient clearance between the wheels and the brake blocks to avoid shorts on the abc power bogie, you will also find that the pullrods are too short.
  12. Jeff It would depend on the motor but probably not. However 2 things to bear in mind, the XL has a stay alive circuit built in the the Loksound V4 doesn't and they cost about £34 to buy and require some deft soldering to fit. The second thing is that when you power both bogies on a diesel its like 2+2 = 10, its amazing the improvement in performance, I have recently done it on a 37 and I am now going back to the few I have that are single bogie powered to double those up. If you use the abc diesel bogie gear box with a maxon motor though, you can get away with just using a V4 loksound chip to power both, and the pair are only about the price of one of their power bogies. Richard
  13. Brian I'm building some JLTRT TTA tankers and some PRMRP TEA tanks. I was wondering if you knew of a source of solebar tranfers, as I can't find any ? Thanks Richard
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