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hobbyhorse

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    Kent

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  1. I've been using the juicers for a few year now, 3 ways, singles, turntables and reversing sections, never had any problems. Can't fault the products from Tam Valley. Simon
  2. I was involved with a working group before retiring that looked at platform signage to try and reduce stopshorts and wrong side releases. What starts out as clear guidance for drivers can soon change as this photo shows. It's easy to blame drivers for mistakes but clearly no one has complained about this situation. Simon
  3. Thanks Michael, I'll have a look out for some. I do have some concerns with the Cadmiun in woods metal. Simon
  4. Over the years I've had many people ask the best method to solder my castings (ex Hobbyhorse) it's really straightforward, firstly tin the brass or N/silver with 145 solder, next clean the white metal casting and using a product called Woods Metal solder the two parts together. Woods Metal is available from various suppliers (Tirante is my supplier) and is cheaper than model shop type solders. The soldering iron I use is an ERSA type with a 1mm tip and temperature around 250, yes it's a high temperature but the key is the solder will flow very easily, and you won't melt the casting. The photo shows two white metal castings soldered, notice how clean the joint is without blobs. Some care is required with Woods Metal as the fumes are dangerous, so and extractor is required. Hope this helps. Simon
  5. I tried the Digitrax ones but caused lots of problems with shorts, replaced them with the Tam Valley frog juicers that can be configured for auto reverse, and work without any problems. Simon
  6. Similar on the South Eastern, just the diagrams in the case, then get the WTT's out and find all the stopping places. one of the benefits of my depot Grove Park was it was quite small so we used to rewrite the diagrams to suit ourselves, this in management speak was called fiddling. This all stopped when the depot expanded opening up the old Hither Green down yard and continental siding to EMUT stabling, as we had management on site now, something we never had. Simon
  7. Steve, you can run JMRI on either windows or Mac, once you have the computer interface JMRI is free. Its a very powerful tool that's also useful for programming locos as well. It will work alongside your own system, I run Digitrax on it. Have a look on YouTube for JMRI, plenty of tutorials on all aspects of it. Simon
  8. You can use SE8C as a stand alone unit, and use JMRI for setting up and running. Obviously it's designed to connect to digitrax loconet but work well without it. I use them and my only gripe is you can't manually operate signals. Simon
  9. Lots of options, ESU, soundtrax and Zimo. I've done lots of installs over the years for clients and all have a good reputation. If your sticking to one type it's worth getting the programmer for it, or use JMRI if your mixing types. Simon
  10. Good to meet you Tim, glad you enjoyed your visit. The weather made it challenging for us but good fun. Simon
  11. These are my mods, it insures 100% reliable operation. Yes it's a belt and braces approach but for the sake of 5 minutes work before laying the track it's definitely worth it, especially the feeds to the switch blades, don't rely on the contact spring or the fixing at the pivot point. Polarity change is by the switch machine. Simon
  12. Sorry, this is what I should have posted, can't get used to these electrical things I'm much better on steam power. Simon
  13. My setup is digitrax with JMRI, and I can say I've never had any problems reading, tweaking and remapping chips. Before I retired from the model rail business I did a lot of chip fitting and diagnostics and problems with chips was down to faults on them. Simon
  14. Sounds like a great weekend you've got planned, come a say Hi. I'm normally on Helga. Simon
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