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HLT 0109

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About HLT 0109

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    Photography, home video making/editing, railway modelling (of course), classical music, DIY.

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  1. Does it make any difference if you rotate the TT 180 degrees before you run the loco up to it? Alternatively, have you tried switching the power feeds to the TT?
  2. Mark, I have had the Heljan turntable for a number of years but have not had the problem you describe. However, when I had a different problem I foound them to be very helpful. I suggest you contact them direct about the problem. Their website quotes this email address: [email protected] Harold
  3. My locos have all been bought new, within the last ten years and range from 0-6-0 tanks to a 9F. I also run classes 37 47 and 55 diesels. I have also just started an N gauge layout that hs two, Peco, set track curved points (space limitations precluded the electrofrog versions as they take up more space). They are also are running well with two, new, A3 locomotives.
  4. I have both Hornby and Peco set track curved points on my 00 gauge layout and they all work well. I did have trouble with the Hornby ones which were the first ones I bought, but, the problems disappeared once they (and the approach tracks) were laid correctly. If you make sure that the points are laid flat and level, I doubt you will have a problem - but the angle of the approach curve can also create a problem, try to make as straight as possible and no sharper than the surve in the point itself. Make sure there is no kink at the rail joiners. I suspect that the Peco ones would have problems if not laid well, but I had learned my lesson by the time I got those! That said, if you still have problems, you may find that a thin piece of plastic attached along the check rail on the inner curve (making the flangeway narrower) may help. I hope this helps your decision making. Harold.
  5. Having watched an earlier post from Karhedron, I have just been placing one of the small neodymium magnets each side of a sleeper and against opposite rails . This should reduce the problem of precision in shunting as each magnet attracts the pin in one of the couplings - I have yet to test it with wagons attached since only my locos have the Easi-shunt attached as yet., but it worked in Karhedron's video The magnets are so strong that thee is no need for a strip of four between the sleepers. The problem I have had is that the strength of the magnets overcame the glue while it was wet and the magnets sprang together - so I fixed one in place and let the glue dry before fixing the other. Harold.
  6. Shroomy, I am using the Hornby one (I have several on my 00 gauge layout and one on my new N gauge layout) and all work perfectly with Power Cab. At least the new one was but it started to fail intermittently. I have today discovered a loose solder joint to the rail in the feed from the RLM to the reversing loop. I am sure this is the problem and expect that reliable service will resume once the connection is properly soldered. When I say "loose" I mean the joint is broken so the rail is sitting on the feed wire so there is poor electrical conductivity. I also had the same problem on my 00 gauge layout years ago and found a poor joint on that occasion. I recommend a thourough inspection of all connections within the reversing loop before paying out to replace your RLM Harold.
  7. That's kind of you Richard - many thanks. I have just checked the Tyneside Models messaging site and find my post is there (twice now), both have been viewed twice (once must be by me) but no reply as yet. Thank you for the link to Narrow Planet - I see they do a similar loco kit for £125 including a motor bogie and postage but it is out of stock. I will keep looking. Harold.
  8. Thank you Richard - it seems waht I saw yesterday was correct, although possibly my original posting was not. I will repost it as a conversation between 2. Harold.
  9. Guy, Just tried following your instructions. Googling Tynesdie Models comes up with Shapeways.com/shops/. . . Selecting that, gives me a page headed Shapeways, below shich is Tyneside Models name and the name of the proprietor followed by "Send Message" in an oval box. If I click on that, another Shapeways page appears with "Start a New Conversation" then "To Tyneside Models". Is that what you expect? It looks like the page I completed last week although I cannot remember whether the name of the shop appeared on that occasion.
  10. Thank you gentlemen. Yes, that is the button I used. I have just tried it again and I am requested to log in to Shapeways which then presents me with an opportunity to start a new conversation. Now,, if I select "Conversations", my question appears and shows it has been read by two people but there is no reply so far.
  11. Thanks Richard, but I followed Shapeways instructions and got the result set out in my original post. I also Googled Tyneside Models and got the same link. I have just tried again and, no matter what I do, I end up being offered the Shapeways forum as the means of posing my question. Something is not right. Harold.
  12. I have on order a tiny motorised bogie for an N gauge layout and planned to scratch buid a loco body, but I discovered something I believe would be suitable on the Shapeways website under the Tyneside Models name. Before ordering, I need to aska question so I have created an account and contacted Shapeways. I got a very prompt response saying they were unable to help me as I need to ask the designer and gave brief instructions. Follwoing the instructions took me to a forum (which did not seem appropriate) but I posted the question anyway earlier today. Now, when I log on to that forum, i cannot find my post. Can someone please tell me the correct procedure? Thanks, Harold
  13. Welcome to the forum - I am sure yoou will find it helpful. That is a large board to handle alone - probably more awkward than heavy, although it will, as you say get heavier. 9mm ply should be fine and the dimensions of the frame/braces likewise. Screws and glue are good as also the spacing I think. Cross-braces will definitely reduce flex but try to ensure they are a good fit rather than loose, and gluescrew again. Do make sure there is no twist in the board as you fit each brace, otherwise you will fix in the twist - I presume there is no twist after fitting the existing braces and frame. Think about where you might want point motors (if they are to be fitted underneath the track), sine the braces might prevent them from being fitted where you want. Good looking job so far. I hope your son catches your enthusiasm. Harold.
  14. Am I right in thinking you plan to pour the varnish to a depth of 5mm? If so, I would advise against it - it wil probably never dry. I have certainly used gloss varnish to represnt water, having painted the river bed appropriately, but I have not painted the bank sides to look as if they are under water. I found that the important thing was to get the bed of the river/pond correct - ie the colour required and shading as necessary to suggest depth, then simply paint several thin coates of varnish, letting the paint and each coat of varnish dry thoroughly before applying the rest. Practise on a mock-up to make part of the bottom look as if it is the sides of the pond - not done exactly that myself but I am sure that is the way to go. As it happens, i am starting a new layout with a shallow boating lake where I may need to do something similar. half-submerged old tyres form buffers around the edges, so I may need to represent the submerged half of the tyres among other things. Harold.
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