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HLT 0109

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  • Location
    Cambridgeshire
  • Interests
    Photography, home video making/editing, railway modelling (of course), classical music, DIY.

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  1. When I faced the same problem for my 009 layout, I decided to make my own (see picture). The posts are matchsticks and the chain link is Isopon aluminium mesh intended for fibreglass repairs to car bodies. The mesh is easily cut with a craft knife and I folded over the top 2mm with pliers so that it was less dangerous to the fingers. I sprayed it with a rattle can of grey primer before brushing on acrylic paints. The mesh is a little over-scale but I think it does the job. For adhesive I used Rocket Card Glue Harold. PS - don't know why the picture is on its side - If I r
  2. If you are looking for working lights, Kytes Lights do quite a range. https://www.kyteslights.com/index.php?view=all&cPath=24 I have used the garain of rice versions but mostly are now LEDs I think. Harold.
  3. You will need a very wide helix to do better than a 1:50 incline. £rd radius curves need a 4'wide helix (approx) and in one circuit the track would be less than 13'long; in that distance (for 00 gauge) you would need to rise (say) 3"; ie 3:156. If installing a double track, the inner circle would be steeper. You could of course add operational interest by double heading the trains up the helix but then you woould probably need a place to stop to uncouple at the top. I have a steep incline (insanely steep) on my loft layout and need three steam locos to haul 20 loaded wagine to t
  4. DLPG - just found this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hornby-X6222-Rear-Bogie-Pony-Wheels-Green-Assembly-For-Thompson-L1-R2912-NEW/264838431702?hash=item3da999c3d6:g:p9AAAOSw-nRfPkx3 There are six pages of spares on the website - if green is wrong, there may be others - in any case painting the wheels should be difficult. Hope this helps, Harold.
  5. Keith, Not sure what you would need but I purchased the item in this link https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0756PH1FB/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to drive this diorama. I added plastic gears and pulleys as necessary Harold.
  6. Doesn't it need power to the track before it will work fully - connection no 4 of OP's first photo?
  7. I have this year used up a solid block of white DAS that has been sitting in my loft since 2015. It was wrapped in cling film around the original packaging but obviously not airtight. If you shave pieces of the hard block into a container and add water, it will soften as much as youo want it and it can be used. You may not want it to use it where the finish matters incase it deteriorates but I have used it to fill gaps in basic scenery and even as a soft paste. It goes off again like the original. It is best done in small quantities and use a piece of wood to mash it from time to time whi
  8. Rob, you don't say whether you bought the loco new or used but, if you bought it from a retail outlet, I think you should report the problem to them, even if you are not in a position to return the item for repair. They may be able to advise you. Alternatively it is probably worth discussing the problem Bachmann customer Services. When I wnated some help with a replacement coach bogie, Bachmann referred me to BR LInes who managed to supply what i needed but, having just looked at his website, I suspect he may not have the sort of item you appear to need. Harold.
  9. If it is a question of needing a motor attached in order to program the trailer car decoder, one way is to programme the power car and trailer together with the settings required for the trailer, then remove the trailer car from the track and reprogram the power car on its own with the settings it requires. if the trailer just needs to be addressed, then programming CV1 with the two cars together should do it. Harold.
  10. Not sure if it is possible as I have not tried it but, as an alternative to what Michael has suggested, could you move the motors sideways so that the rods poke through a new hole in the end of each tie bar? It will depend on whether the width of the tie bar is enough for the correct size hole (and your skill with a drill). If there remains a problem with the over-cente spring then the Seep PM4 could be used in the new positions. Harold.
  11. Paul, It does look as if you have used a bit too much ballast, and it can be difficult to remove just enough before gluing it in place. I have found it is worth while really taking time and being very careful. I lay the ballast between the rails first, leaving some space to brush/push any excess into, then clear the sleeper tops. I do the outsides of the rails next where it is easy to brush any excess out of the way. Also best not to do too much at once as it is esily disturbed by a wayward/tired finger or a suddenly released breath! I have never used Ballast Bond but find tha
  12. Instinct tells me what you suggest would result in a short when power is reapplied to the turntable - though I am not an electrician. Wouldn't a stay alive in each loco maintain the sound over the dead spot? It would then be bemeficial elsewhere on the layout. Harold.
  13. Colin, When I visited last year, I discovered that the naval battle takes place in the lake in Peasholm Park - this lake is in the Northstead Manor Gardens - which is the other side of Burniston Road. Just as well - showing the aircraft doing a bombing raid might be too difficult. I hope to make some padaloes for the boating lake , and I am wondering if I can do a couple of Water Walker balloons. Thank you for your comment. Harold.
  14. It appears that my query has everyone stumped - plenty of views though! Nothing daunted, I put on my thinking cap, made many searches of the internet for possible mechanisms, drew and revised a few sketches and, after a some trial and error came up with a working water chute. I invite yoou to comment on the result:
  15. I agree - if it is done before ballasting. It shouldn't be too difficult to align the inserted point with the existing track and fix it permanently in place before soldering the connecting wire. Alignment can be checked by pushing rolling stock across the joins and adjustment made then if necessary. However, best to align with rail joiners if practicable. Sometimes more damage can be caused by trying to insert a reluctant rail joiner or even sliding one along. If droppers are attached to the replacement point before insertion, then a wire soldered across the joints is unnecessary.
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