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HLT 0109

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    Cambridgeshire
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    Photography, home video making/editing, railway modelling (of course), classical music, DIY.

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  1. I wasn't so much suggesting reaching under the ledges with the scraper as scraping upwards across the ledges so that it left a bead of filler under the edge. If the scraper has a strip of filler along its edge and you then lay the blade agains the slope of the EP, the strip of fill will end up under the ledge. A little practice should soon demonstrate what I mean
  2. I have never used Sculptamold but I have used EP extensively. I have always used undiluted PVA to stick layers together or EvoStik wood glue and they leave no discernable gap. Then I always cover the EP with wetted plaster bandage and that can be used to fill or conceal any gaps. However, a sloppy mix of plaster or DIY filler also works and will fill the gaps you have provided the mix is fairly stiff but still brushable. It could also be applied to the gaps with somehting like a a wallpaper scraper if practice suggests it needs to be thicker than possible with a brush. I certainly would NOT try to sand the edges - they will probably break up. And I think, if left unprotected, the edges will break up quite easily. I suggest you try an area with Sculptamold and see how you get on. If that is not satisfactory, try some plaster bandage in (say) 25mm wide strips, dunked for a few seconds in a container, then rolled or folded into a sausage to be gently pressed into the gaps. Rubbing over the bandage after placing, with a wet finger gives a smooth joint with the EP. Harold.
  3. If you're prepared to make your own, I found this product. It will need careful glueing with something that does not turn the plastic foggy. https://www.rcworld.co.uk/acatalog/Plasiglaze-Clear-Plastic-Sheet.html There are other suppliers but quite a lot of the so-called clear sheets are in fact translucent. Harold.
  4. Peco seem to have a different view when it comes to their N gauge electrofrog points. When I was laying the track early this year for my new DCC layout which uses Peco N gauge electrofrog points, their construction looked different from the 00 gauge ones I had used some years previously, so I asked Peco where to make cuts in the track and in the under-point wiring. The emphatic response was do NOT cut any wires or track - the reason given was that, because of the amount of contact between the stock rail and the switch rail, it was unnecessary to bond the two in the way we do for 00 gauge. Thus advised, I left the points as they were and have regretted it ever since. Harold.
  5. I am using copper tape on my 009 layout but not as the complete bus. I am using it at baseboard joints as a butt-connection and is proving satisfactory when the boards are bolted together. However it is dependent upon the quality of the carpentry of the boards. I am also using it as "tag strips" to which to solder droppers from the rails and feeds to point motors. I have had no issues for the last nine months or so. I am running no more than two locomotives at once. The tape I am using is 13mm wide - don't forget you need space to accommodate two strips side-by-side with space between. As David says, the self-adhesive is pretty poor but, when really desperate, it can be pinned (stapled?) to the board. Although the glue is said to be electrically conductive, I followed a recommendation when making joins, to fold a little under and solder the surfaces together. If you are going to use the tape exclusively as the bus, it becomes complicated if you try to cross framework under the baseboards whereas wires can pass through a small hole drilled through a frame. If I were to start again, I would use it again as tag strips. Harold.
  6. I wonder if the loco is rather lightweight? I have had the problem with small locos (I also use Power Cab) though not those fitted with Loksound decoders. I found that adding some extra weight temporarily to the loco when on the programming track to ensure secure electrical contact between all wheels and the rails? Something attached to the top of the boiler with Blue Tak for example worked. You might manage by holding the loco down by hand if you can avoid any movement or shakiness. Perhaps worth a try. Harold.
  7. When I was having trouble with my decoders, I was given to understand that Gaugemaster decoders were rebadged(?) Digitrax items. So I downloaded the Digitrax manual http://www.digitrax.com/static/apps/cms/media/documents/documentation/Decoder_Manual_V2-01_2014.pdf Pages 46-49 describe adjusting motor control - somewhat difficult to follow I found - but I did make significant improvements with experimentation. I repeat however that mine as DC 23s rather than 27s. Might be worth a look. Harold.
  8. 3mm below track level seems very little for a canal in 4mm - only 9 inches. I am making a layout with a boating lake where the water is only about 18" below track level so i have raised everywhere except the lake on 5mm cork. However, as you are using a 12mm thick baseboard, you could cut out the canal and fix a piece of wood larger than the hole, underneateh the cutout. That wiuld give you a 3ft distance from track to water level - unless you reduce that by covering the bottom of the canal to achieve a lesser depth of your choosing. Harold.
  9. I think with Gaugemaster decoders, a value of 0 in CV2 means something other than zero volts. I have a couple of DC23s with the value in one set at 2 and the other at 3. One of the motors is rated at 4volts and i have CV5 set at 20 for a maximum speed of about 25mph. Harold.
  10. Al I agree with Spikey but make sure it is birch ply rather than anything cheaper. The 70mm deep frame gives room for under-board electrical items whereas 2" might will not be enough for some items. Harold.
  11. Glad you worked it out. The manual is certainly odd - probably lost something in translation.
  12. Just checked my spreadsheet records - perhaps this will help: my Jinty has a value of 43 in CV57; my Brittannia has value 55. I do not appear to have recorded the values for my other relevant locos - probably because i did not need to adjust them as all my decoders were fitted by the suppliers. Harold.
  13. I share your confusion. I have several steam locos with Loksound v3.5 decoders but it is so long since I synchronised chuffs that I cannot remember how i did it. However, why not experiment? What happens if you put in value 127 to CV57? If the chuffs are not right, try a lower value. Sorry I can't solve the riddle. Harold.
  14. If you are referring to Deluxe Materials Liquid Gravity, then I do not believe it is made of lead. i have some now and it recommends (among other things) their Rocket Card Glue so I have used it. Some of the tiny balls have rusted, suggesting they are made if ferrous material. The bottle also says "Non toxic" which, in my book, rules out lead. Harold.
  15. I don't know whether this is helpful or not but I offer my experiences for consideration. I have two Gaugmaster DCC23 decoders in N gauge locos and have had poor running qualities similar to those described (except for the cutting out). The first is in a second hand Fairbairn 2-6-4 tank and the other is driving a tiny 0-4-0 motorbogie (10mm wheelbase) in a 3D printed body. I have both locos running well after carefull study of the user manual and playing with the motor control CVs - and some of them are very different from the default values to which they were set: Fairbairn: CV54 = 64; CV55 = 128; CV56 = 1; CV57 = 10. 0-4-0: CV54 = 0; CV55 = 128; CV56 = 80; CV57 = 10. I was told that the Gaugemaster decoders are rebadged Digitrax so I took my information from their user manual - though it took quite a while to understand. I agree that there are better decoders readily available but the Fairbairn came with it fitted and the other decoder was removed from a Dapol Flying Scotsman in which it was unsatisfactory so I tried it before incurring the expense of an alternative. Harold.
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