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brightspark

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    Woking
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    Playing trains...wooh-wooh goes the whistle, chuff=chuff goes the engine
    Riding my bicycle...ting-a-ling goes the bell wheeze and gasp goes the engine.

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  1. By this I mean a black loco, under normal light = black blob. But in the sunshine. Progress to date.
  2. I said in the previous post that the tender goes around a 4' radius without having to clear the swing of the bogie. That statement was true as far as the tender goes, but when coupled to the loco, it became a different story. First of all you can get the clearance by thinning the step. You may want to do this anyway as whitemetal castings are a bit thick. The next problem was that the loco started to spin. I eventually tracked this down to a poor design of tender drawbar. The DJH design has a drawbar that is fixed to the leading bogie of the tender, so that it is part of the bogie. The drawbar being a solid arm projecting forward. This is intended to engage with a white metal pin on the rear drag bracket/ drawbar beam. I decide to adopt this as I wanted to close the gap between loco and tender and put in something a bit more robust than a whitemetal pin. So further inboard I have put a screw that retain a bearing. The drag beam is a 1mm steel bar doubled in width. A bent paperclip formed into a loop and bent back along its length with a loop to go around the loco bearing and glued to the bogie frame. So the design was similar in that there was a fixed beam to the leading bogie, but the bearing on the loco was further forward. The effect of a tight corner was that the arm, being in line with the bogie was pulling the loco sideways. There seems to be two possible solutions. The first is to make a new loop to go around the bearing but very wide so the arm would have a Tee end with an oblong hole. The second, and the one I went with was to have a drawbar that had two loops, one at each end. The forward one engaging with the Loco bearing in the dragbox and the tender picking up on the pin locating the front bogie. And it seems to work as the loco-tender assembly now seems much happier running around the 4'. I was going to take a photo, but its too dark.
  3. brightspark

    Slaters

    David, can miss the odd e-mail. Just send it again. You normally get a reply if you ask for one. (It happens to me … especially if I get a load arrive at once. )
  4. Thank you for the compliments. Hi Adam, I still think that the Hornby model is going to be better and an easier route to a EM/P4 than the DJH. Still how about a head to head with them on the test track sometime? Meanwhile, back in the Batcave... Sometime in the past 30 plus years since the kit left DJH, a few bits went missing. Including the footsteps. There are eight altogether but I only had four, three of one hand and one of the other. Luckily a pair was still on a sprue. So this week I made up a mould and cast my self some replacements. They didn't all come out the mould as nice as I would have liked, I could have spent more time working on getting the flow right, but I got enough reasonable casts for my needs. These I will then modify the various shape steps that the S15 had. I have just glued them on and I can now see why DJH added a bit of length to the tender, as the rear bogies doesn't clear the steps. As it goes around a four foot radius it is not an issue.
  5. Today should have seen 30838 proving itself (or disgracing itself) around the EMGS test track at Bracknell. Sadly ExpoEM Spring has had to be cancelled. The furthest that she has run is on a couple of yards of test track. One straight and one curved. I am currently pondering how she (and the other locos in my stock box) will cope with the B6 points sold by the society. Anyway here is progress to date. This morning I made up the new smoke deflectors as the DJH ones are too long. They are fine for a King Arthur though. That is where people go wrong trying to convert King Arthurs to S15's as the latter is shorter. I think that DJH made the same mistake here. Or were they planning on doing an Arthur? DJH King Arthur on top and my home made S15 below. Anyway its starting to come along now and beginning to look like an S15. Battery box yet to be fixed in place, hence it leaning over. Next job - get these off to paint and...
  6. Today would have been day 1 of ExpoEm, oh yes er Spring, I keep forgetting about that bit. At this point I would be manning the front doors, letting in those frantically setting up the bits of their layouts, or Traders carrying boxes of interesting things, the stewards who need to be pointed to the signing on sheet, while keeping out the great unwashed...sorry the paying public, assuring them that the tills will be open soon. Plus of course looking out for the people who don't quite fit and would probably not be welcome. Amongst all these people are many faces who are familiar and who is miss seeing. All I count as friends, even if some of you I haven't met yet. ExpoEM for me signals the start of the warm sunny days that are to. It always seems to be on the first sunny weekend of the year when the world starts to warm up and we finally say goodbye to the last grasps of winter chill. My memory of the first Expo I attended was at Paddington, with sloping floors, faded carpets and BR livered staff in the foyer. As the sun came out and the temperature went up the windows would be opened to allow the smells of the GWR trainshed to waft gently through the exhibition. Ah, what an atmosphere. It was at one of the Paddington shows that Barry Norman turned up with his baseboards made out of "flimsy" plywood and he had also laid the track the wrong way. Who in their right mind would lay track across the narrow width instead of the length. This was the embryonic Petheric and what we were seeing was the jump start into modern finescale. We have had interesting times at Bletchley. Did we ever take the same route from the M1 to the hall? It was where I started to find myself behind the layout. Watford, forget the catering incident, but remember seeing the mighty Retford. And finally Bracknell. This year was going to be a good show. I have my shopping list, but will have to buy on line now. I have something for the test track, but that will have to wait. The layouts wait to be shown another time. (Close your eyes) Only half an hour until the doors open. An orderly queue is forming and tickets are starting to be sold.
  7. I have this from the SABLE collection of the late Douglas Smith. These are plated on. See MRJ90 Andy
  8. Left Hand side Valve gear fitted. Right hand side yet to do. The aim is to have it ready for the test track at ExpoEM Spring on 16th 17th May. (That has been cancelled) Even though the event isn't on, it's still good to have a target. So RH side valve gear, buffers and AJ to be fitted by then.
  9. At last Black Paint! I was in a bit of a panic on Friday as the last bit of Halfords primer splattered over the half painted boiler and I had no more and wondered if I could get more. Saturday was spent rubbing back the blobs while waiting for a text from my local Halfords that my order was ready to collect. Ordering on line was easy and an hour so later I made way to the other end of Woking to get pick it up. The counter has been moved to the door and they only operate a click and collect service. Honestly it is essential supplies, as it is for my sanity. It was also a lot easier that normal. What a great service. So the model has been primed, rubbed back re-primed and coated in Mr Halfords finest black in both satin and gloss. Buffer beams now red. I had a lovely reversing wheel that I picked up at a show for 20p. I had it on the bench ready for painting the same colour, and then it was gone...! Also- what colour is the inside of the cab? I have a photo of a preserved S15 cab, where the interior is a sort of khaki brown/ sand. So I painted it with some Humbrol sand colour. But it would be nice to get some accurate information. Doe anyone know what colour this should be for 1960? Andy
  10. Testing my homebrewed chassis had proved to be somewhat troublesome and required much rework. I found that all of the problems were associated with the front end of the model. This was due to a lack of attention my part. I had taken great care to get the chassis square around the driving wheels, but, had taken less care around the front end, mistakenly believing it to be just cosmetic. A bit of bending and light work with the soldering iron has hopefully sorted this out. But it did indicate, with some hindsight, that there is not much room around the front bogie and that to get this loco to run right, you will need to keep your wits about you. As usual, it seems with this type of loco, there were a few problems around the frame clearance of the bogie wheels. But I getting alarmed as more at how much material I was removing as no matter what I did the wheels still touched. I came to the conclusion that my method of supporting the bogie as part of the compensation system was the problem and needed reworking. I had initially used the same method of mounting the front bogie as the Standard 5. That is a rubbing plate on the end of the compensating beam. Fixed onto the plate is the bogie pivot pin. Unfortunately, there is a lot more movement on this model and this had the effect of allowing the bogie to move fore and aft as the beam pivoted around its axis. The only solution was to have the pin fixed to the chassis and come to some other arrangement for the compensation beam. The side control springs have been abandoned at the moment as all they do is cause derailments. I have, at the moment, just a spring link at the rear of the bogie. The effect of this, is to cause the front of the bogie to steer into the corner. Although this seems to work, I would like a better solution. Again, DLT seems to have a good solution and might give this a go. Hopefully the pictures below should show what is going on. Assembled bogie. Note the U shape wire from the back of the bogie, going into a hole in the beam. I then moved onto the cylinders and J hangers (AKA slide-bar support brackets) Iain Rice wrote in his Loco Chassis Construction book much about the DJH S15 and I was using this as guidance. He pointed out that there is an incline in the cylinders and that the J hanger was prominent. However, the photos of his finished model, show the cylinders horizontal and the J hangers omitted. I was puzzled by this omission but then after offering up the cylinders in the horizontal realised that they don’t fit. They will only fit if you incline the cylinders to the correct angle. That is by the way in direct line with the centre driving axle. I reinforced the J hanger as DLT recommended in his thread. Oh, and the J hangers are positioned vertically and not perpendicular to the slide bars. I made that mistake and found that the rear bogie wheel fouls them. The cylinders are of interest. On review I initially thought that DJH had got these wrong, by making them too long and so causing them to foul the rear bogie wheel by around 1,5mm or so. I was also unhappy that they seemed to bind so I stripped them down by soaking them in Nitromors. This was a tip I found on this and other model railway forums. I took 48 hours to break down the thickest part of the araldite. Before taking a file to them, I had a feeling that I was still wrong because somehow the cylinders in the photos of S15’s looked to be the same proportion as the DJH castings. But both the BR/SR weight diagram and the Beattie drawing showed them to be approximately 1.5mm shorter at the rear. This confirmed my thinking but created a conflict. It was study of the Hornby drawing and scaling of the photographs that revealed the true picture. That is that the cylinders need to be 1.5mm further forward and clear of the rear bogie wheel and that the DJH cylinders are the correct length. It is the two 4mm drawings that are wrong! Other people on these forums have also reported that they moved the cylinder forward, but I get the impression that this was more out of desperation rather than by measurement. So, anyone reading this, these are the critical dimensions that I think you need. These photos show the correct measurements with the datum point marked 0-0 being the front of the main body of the cylinder. Hopefully these make sense. Dimensions are 18mm to the front of the buffer beam, 3,3mm to the top of the outside edge of the top of the curve on the footplate. Other dimension to the right are for the position of the J hanger and the end of the slide bars. I know that it was a crap datum and if was doing it again I would work from the buffer beam at STN-O. By the way the Centre line is to the bogie pivot. As you can see there is an awful lot of filler and a little bit of reshaping of the top front of the cylinder block. The fouling seems to be caused by the thickness of the whitemetal running plate/footplate. The rest of the filler is replicate the shape of the casing around the cylinder on the prototype. And that brings you up to date.
  11. Southeastern Finecast do a turntable kit. But it is not a "shake the box" item.
  12. A fellow member of SLAG is currently building a loco with forked joints. It looks a bit fiddly, but then he has similar views of compensation. I actually have the slidebars on the bench now having debonded (unglued) the cylinder assembly. The slidebars in the kit do look chunky but I wonder if it because we are used to seeing etches. I am thinking that the DJH supplied items are the correct width but just lack a rib running along it.
  13. Hi Tony, I am looking forward to another visit to LB and pint in that very pub.
  14. Hi N15, I am intrigued could you go into bit more detail. Especially the valve gear as I have yet to attack that.
  15. The Loco Body – Part 2 – The boiler and smoke box. I had been putting this off because as already discussed there is so much wrong and I wanted to have a clear plan as to how I was going to tackle this. I had in mind several ideas that included rolling a new boiler and smoke box. In the end I found that I could retain the original casting with the advantage of the additional weight and detail of the whitemetal casting. However, some modification was still required. The boiler length is correct if you fill up the area where the tab is. This I did with plastic strip and at the same time removed the cast boiler band. By the way in reference to earlier posts, I did look at the SEF N15 boiler, actually I obtained a kit and was also given a half-assembled model. The boiler is the correct length but is still too thin. The other problem is that the N15 has a splasher and thus the SEF boiler has nothing below that line, so you would have to fill that with something. The boiler will now fit flush up against the cab on a tab soldered to the front of the cab. In the same manner as DLT I removed the base of the smoke box to get the smoke box height correct and to eliminate the gap between the underside of the boiler and the running board. I then made three cuts on the boiler. The first is right behind the smoke box from the underside and upwards until the metal was weak enough for me to make a bend so that the boiler tilts upwards from the smoke box. Then the second cut was made on the top of the boiler along side second boiler band (the one in front of the dome). Using the boiler band was helpful in making a straight cut but I later realised that it is in the wrong place and the bend should be further back and under the dome. Both of these cuts only need to go just over halfway through the diameter of the casting. The final cut was on the underside of the boiler along the centre line from the motor cut-out to the rear of the smoke box. I then pulled out the sides of the boiler so as the get the correct diameter over the firebox and running parallel to the aft cut and then moving forward to taper in to the rear of the smoke box. I inserted plastic blocks into the cuts so that they held their position and then in the same manner as the tender glued in reinforcement strips on the inside and then used Milliput to fill the gap. Finally removing the moulded boiler band as I smoothed down the filler. These are replaced with Alan Gibson etched boiler bands where \I also corrected the position. The firebox and footplate casting will need a bit of fettling as the former is now larger than the latter. I did consider slotting open the smoke box but decided against it as the front of the boiler where it meets the smoke box is the correct diameter and keeping this whole ensured against the casting going oval when it was pulled out. I suspect that DJH assumed that the boiler was parallel, where it has a slight taper. To get over the undersize smokebox I made up a wrapper to the correct size and fitted it over the existing casting. There is a little step at the rear of the smoke box and I replicated this with one of the packing shims. The front casting of the smokebox was shortened and glued into position. I glued a bit of Plastikard on top of the existing pimple that represents the front step. This comes out in the correct position and is quite prominent. NOTE that the S15 smokebox is shorter than the N15. Which may explain why, in post 6, Horsetan thought that both the boiler and footplate were too short. The handrail knob positions are in the wrong place and because I have changed the diameter of the boiler are at the wrong height. The old were filled and new holes drilled for the knobs. I fixed these into place and because there is no boiler lining, fitted the handrails. I also fitted the chimney, dome safety valves and whistle, after first checking and correcting their positions. I also moved the washout plugs. These can be cut off with a sharp knife and reapplied with Araldite. Note that these are not directly opposite each other, DJH got this wrong as well. (sigh!) So that is the main part of the body done.
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