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  1. The medium (sometimes referred to as 'small') Metros are a complicated subject. There are several types of cabs fitted with different rear cab plates and configurations where they meet the bunker. The only way to get one that looks like your model is to find dated photos. Plenty were in service up to WW2 ie: in the OPs period. Insignia on the tanks also varied. Tony
  2. bump - so no-one knows then? Is it mentioned in the book Rail Centres Doncaster? Tony
  3. I get a feeling they have never been a good seller for Hornby, hence the lack of versions. The really strange thing is they never did a 'pretty livery' GER blue one, which I would expect would be an excellent seller! Tony
  4. A correct length Con Rod is also available! Tony
  5. Regarding the problems with the Dapol Mogul cylinder slidebars, crosshead and conecting rod Brassmasters are going to produce replacements. Their test etches have been built and here is how they build up: I guess there will be a little wait before they are in production, I have been promised more details from the Brassmasters site Tony
  6. Hi, I was looking at a pic of a derailed loco - up to its axles in the ballast but no visible damage to bodywork. I just wondered once the cranes had done their job and it was back on the rails was it the Motive Powers deptartments job to inspect it and get it towed back to the nearest depot for a proper inspection and repairs, or did the crane gang have someone authorised to do this? Of course if it was seriously damaged I guess the decision wether to cut it up or move it would be a bigger decision by 'management', but I cannot recall many instances when this was done 'on
  7. Are the LNWR models and Dioramas by the late Jack Nelson still in the museum? I last saw them I guess around 1988! Tony
  8. You should not under estimate a 2F. In the 1930s they would still work up the S&C, certainly on lesser shorter jobs like the pick up freights and ballast workings. Don't forget that the vast influx of Black Fives and 8Fs onto the LMS was really a WW2 onwards build programme. Therefore 4Fs, Crabs and 3Fs would have been the mainstay of the freight workings with 2Fs on shorter lighter jobs. Tony
  9. Hi, Doncaster station in the early 1950s was still in basically GNR condition with the two platforms facing the through roads covered over with canopies supported on columns adjacent to the through roads. Can anyone give me a definitive date when these roofs were removed please? The pic belows shows what I am talking about Cheers Tony
  10. No, we were discussing this at Pendon. Looking at pics of Wantage Road and Wantage back this up. This is Wantage Road around 1938, not a high enough Res scan but GRIFF from Nuneaton is clear. Marriott with the broken back is from Witney and presumably 'stopped. The wagon carrying straw appears to be a LNER wagon with simplified small lettering livery which supports the date. Can anyone identify the lorry and tell us when that type was introduced? Tony
  11. Yes Stephen, it seems to work for me. It can be a little messy but it is only PVA so peels off easily. Making it oversize allows me it use it on many sizes of wagon, but I am 1930 so there is more height variation than your period. Cheers Tony
  12. I built a special oversize 'dummy wagon' for making removable loads. Basically a lash-up of plasticard on a base all held together with elastic bands. Cut the base the exact size for the wagon to be modelled. I use black plasticard as the removable load floor, score it heavily with a craft knife then fix the coal with PVA -works fine. When hardened and the shape 'set' (takes 2 goes to get the hump) I remove the bands allowing the sides to be removed and the load drops into the wagon. Hopefully the pic below is self explanatory. You wil need different width ends for different siz
  13. Most of the house coal for 'The Vale of the White Horse' came from the Midlands coalfields so not totally inappropriate for your model.......... Tony
  14. Removing those support 'studs' for the ladder may be interesting - you certainly do not want to break the ladder! I would have thought cutting them would put pressure on the ladder as the studs distort before breaking through. I suppose you could use a very fine fret saw fed through. Does Bill Bedford recommend a way? When I scratchbuild ladders I use signal laddering with seperate wire rungs - Colin Waite ones were the first but Wizard do some acceptable ones now I think. Tony
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