Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

50031Hood's Achievements



  1. 66787 and 789 in Tonbridge Yard 7th May 2020. I don't care too much about these locos but the large logo livery took me back 30+ years and looked good!
  2. 87001 waiting to depart from Milton Keynes. Second image shows 370002 and 005 passing Rugby on 3/4/85.
  3. 47579 James Nightall GC arrives at Liverpool St 17/8/85 with 47587 to the left.
  4. 25251 in the company of 87031 & 86224 Euston 6/1/84
  5. 36 years and one day ago, 50039 on the only loco-hauled train to Wolverhampton from Paddington via High Wycombe, pictured here at Princes Risborough. It had headed this service for 4 consecutive days and on this day, it failed briefly at Princes Risborough only to splutter into life 10 minutes later. It then returned on the 8.23 morning service back up to Paddington the next day.
  6. Hi John, Two slightly out of focus pics below. They are powered by a 3V coin cell battery in the pics.
  7. This is something that I have been working on (and off) for several years. The raw ingredients are 2mm diameter 'lighthouse' LEDs that are readily available and cheap (12p each), enamelled copper wire and 1/16 inch brass tube. I also had some CR signals 2m ladders and safety cages. Step 1 is to file the cylindrical protrusion of the LED to recreate the shape of the hood. This pic shows before and after Next tie a loop around the anode leg of the LED (the long one) with the enamelled wire, as close to the base as you can, and solder it. The solder seems to break down the enamel at the point where it is contact with the leg whilst retaining insulation along the rest of the wire. I have made a jig that can hold 3 LEDs in place so that I can bend, trim and solder the cathode legs to each other. Solder the ladder/safety cage to the brass tube. The enamelled wires can then be threaded through the brass tube and I solder the cathode to the tube. Spray the whole lot grey and then paint the front of the LED stack matt black. Before the paint dries, I add a laser cut piece of thin black card as the back-plate of the signal. Ubiquitous comparison-with-a-5p-coin pic
  8. And here they are! The tags are easily small enough to be blu-tacked to the underside of each loco. It seems hard to believe that each tag has its own unique ID but they do. They are designed to be injected beneath the skin of pets to literally tag them. They are passive devices - they don't need a power supply - but are activated by the reader (the larger square box to the left) which has a directional antenna within its 25mm x 25mm body. The reader does need a power supply - 5V - and will be mounted underneath the baseboard beyond each signal. When a loco + tag passes overhead, the reader gives out a brief pulse which I will be using to reset the signal. Several years ago I experimented with using the reader to read the individual ID so that rather than simply acknowledging the passage of a train it could identify the loco that was pulling it. On my layout this isn't really required. So it's an expensive solution, frankly but the fact that it is completely invisible and impervious to light conditions or the correct positioning of magnets is the big appeal.
  9. Possibly the longest ever delay between post and response? I have just purchased 3 RFID readers and a further 10 12mm tags from Corerfid. The tags were approx £12 for 10 and the readers £16 each.
  10. Track laying on the visible section now complete. The multi-coloured wires are the cables to the servo motors*, the laser-cut boards have been coated with walnut coloured varnish* and the track glued in place. I've used Xuron cutters* to cut the track to the correct length. This morning I tried out 11 tankers and a Bachmann 56 up the slope from the fiddle yard to the highest point of the layout. This is a climb of 50mm on a 1st radius curve going through 180 degrees. I did trial this (see post #24) nearly 4 years ago but it was a relief to see it managed without difficulty; I didn't have a plan B! I know this means no steam specials (although they would probably manage the gentle rise from Aynho junction). This picture shows the half of the layout with the tracks heading towards the junction. One advantage of having the track mounted on thin sections rather than directly on the baseboard is that they can be taken up and worked on individually rather than working in situ. Next up is painting the rails with Tamiya XF64* and ballasting. I have tried various substances including chinchilla dust* but have settled on Woodlands Scenics and Johnson's Klear*. *stuff I wouldn't have known about had I not been on RMWeb
  11. 6V DC power supply; you might even get away with using a mobile phone charger. The current draw is pretty minimal compared to DC motors so you should be able link several of them. I've purchased a Y-lead that sends a single output to two servos at the same time for cross-overs which the PICAXE handles without complaint.
  12. Hah! Well spotted. At the moment friction is all that is stopping the wire from dropping out but I was thinking of substituing the wire for a pin of the correct diameter. Alternatively I might shamelessly copy your heat shrink idea!
  13. This is the servo kit: http://www.rapidonline.com/design-technology/picaxe-08m2-servo-driver-kit-13-5054 and to program it you will need to hook it up to a computer with one of these: http://www.rapidonline.com/Design-Technology/Electronic-Components/Integrated-Circuits/PICAXE/PICAXE-Cables The software that I used is called Logicator. I prefer it to writing basic because it is visual - drag-and-drop - plus the download includes a manual which tells you how you can control servos. Good luck!
  • Create New...