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Theakerr

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Theakerr last won the day on September 10 2010

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  1. I am more than a little curious about other peoples experience making articulated (Jointed) con rods. Until yesterday I have always made my con rods as a single unit and always have had to play around to achieve a smooth running chassis. Yesterday I made my first set of articulated con rods and there was virtually no fine tuning. It could just be luck but on thinking about it I have reached the conclusion that articulated con rods will be easier to tune because there are only 2 holes (on an 0-6-0) that have to be tuned, albeit twice, compared with the three for a fixed set of rods.
  2. I would stick with the code 83. Once painted it will look pretty good. As you are just starting I would avoid the new Peco Code 75 bullhead, it does look very nice but it is rather delicate. I use Code 100 but only because when I started that was about all that was available here in the GWN. However, I have upgraded the wheels of all my rolling stock and as a result have had to use code 75 slips and double slips because the improved wheels would come off in the Code 100 slips
  3. For my wagons that will be weathered I use Tamiya German Grey
  4. Can do it with the magnets as someone said but you can also do by by turning the sensor through 180. They are very useful in that you can set the sensor up so that it is south pole activated but all other magnet sensors are north pole activated - reed switches don't care which pole attracts them. Thus, all sensors are activated if the magnets has their south pole facing the sensor but all except the hall sensor are activated if the magnet poles are set with the north pole down. I have also been playing with latching relays so that not all sensors are active at any one time. There are potentially an infinite number of combinations of on/off permutations and latching relays (as well as hall sensors) are dirt cheap from Ali express.
  5. I have given up on IR sensors because of their un-reliability and unpredictability and have gone to hall sensors. However, since you dont want to use magnets so they are not appropriate although it may be possible to do something since Hall sensors are pole sensitive.. I also identified a problem with overhead lighting and the problem did improve when I went to a monocromatic LED. Did not completely go away though. Fluorescent lights can be a problem in that unless they are really good quality the temperature can change over relatively short time periods. It might be worth purchasing some good quality LED monochromatic 'fluorescent' strips. A friend is using IR-Dots with some success, but he put a 'tunnel i.e. a black straw' over each LED and adjusted the height so that external light was minimized but it was a pain. If you are prepared to introduce an Arduino it might be possible to use a radar proximity sensor.
  6. I have stopped using e-Bay as anything more than a source of reference. Living where I do, 90% of what I used to buy is located outside the country and found that all the extra costs added to get it into Canada were often more than the item and always way out of line. Same for amazon
  7. If I were doing this I would go back to 1st principles. First, I would decide that I am going to use cab control. Then I would decide how many cabs - I think you will need at least 4. Decide which is up and which is down. Next is to divide the layout into blocks such that each block is physically independent of each other. Note: you can use multiple blocks to achieve continuous running through the reverse loop. For example I see the loco yard as one block, The green and orange is possibly 4 blocks. A quick look says a redesign of the terminus may be necessary. It will take a bit on mental doodling time but I think at first glance you can do everything you want
  8. I have built about 90% of my signals (00) using Ratio signal kits. The 90% refers not to the number on my layout but the % of the kit used. Specifically, all counterweights and L angle brackets have been replaced with metal ones from Wizzard models. The plastic ones just did not stand up. Because I do not use DCC I have used Megapoints servo boards. Economical and easy to use. I have recently used a new micro servo with a footprint about 1/2 the size of a RC90 (derekm see your thread) therefore much easier to install as a total unit (signal + servo) and for my signals they work more than adequately
  9. I used their brick paper and slate tiles probably 8 or more years ago, Loved them and they have stood the test of time. The only issue i had with them was weathering. I used dry powders on them and found it impossible to remove them when I had used too much powder and very difficult to spread evenly and get a fade out effect. I also found washes were not very effective. In the end I used an air brush with Tamiya accrylics and am reasonably happy. The dark area is where I put too much powder on. I was able to remove some of it and blend it in a bit with a cotton bud soaked in Varsol The rest of the structure was air brushed. The
  10. Suggest you try before going to T-cut. 1) just letting soapy water sit on it, I have seen some of the very old transfers just peel away. Probably because the varnish of the day was not that good. 2) take a cotton bud soaked in meths or IPA and gently wipe across the transfers -after testing on a blind area
  11. Anyone tried the n-gauge version of the Kadee. I keep thinking I should get a couple and see but never get round to it. I also like the ROCO coupling again turned upside down
  12. Just received my CotN. Boiler lamp iron loose in box, no problem, What is a problem is the 1mm gap on one side and .5mm gap on the other between the cylinder casting and the running plate. A quick look suggests that the running plate is not sitting flush with the main frames and may be sitting high on the very front chassis casting. I have done a quick run through the thread and I see a fair number of all versions with this gap but I could not find any specific comments or corrective actions (and the search engine is to say the least not especially good). However, has anyone seen this issue and corrected it? Thanks
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