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Theakerr

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Theakerr last won the day on September 10 2010

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  1. I was going to post more or less the same thing as Nigelcliffe. Some descriptors on Arduino friendly relay boards can be a bit misleading in that they say it is an opto isolated board but the normal connection does not use the opto isolating circuit. In the case of the boards I use, to use the opto circuit you do not use the header pins on the relay board but remove the jumper pins an a three pin board to the left of the header pins and connect to them. Do you have a picture.
  2. See my comment about Microsol and a (water based) tender lining decal that curled up on itself (long direction) in my post on my A2 finish
  3. Brian. I cant really remember the 40s but in the early 50s there was I think a passenger train (via Boston Spalding and Peterborough) that left Grimsby about 14:00 and it always had about 3 box vans with fish attached to the rear. As I remember the 1st fitted fish train to London (via Boston Spalding and Peterborough) left about 15:00 putting it in London probably about midnight giving ample time for delivery to local fishmongers, especially if they were willing to pay a premium which I believe some did. After 15:00 normally there would be at least two more fish trains although I am not sure if the complete train went all the way through to London.
  4. My assumptions, when you say a single ended point you mean just one point and when you say double ended you mean two point motors. First question would be, are you using an arduino compatible relay? Next, are you using the Arduino to power the relay? Next if you are using an external source for the relay are you using the opto isolator input? I suspect you need to use the opto isolator circuit for the Arduino. This circuit is specifically designed to eliminate back feed from the relay. I am not sure but I think you can use the opto circuit even with the Arduino as the relay power source. Incidentally I use something similar and I inert an auto relay to carry the CPU power and have never had a problem except burning out one of the auto relays in 20 years.
  5. Well after a year and a quarter I think I have finished my bargain DJH A2. I am guessing the total cost including paint/decals, repair parts to the gearbox and a few bits and pieces I have less than Can$150. One annoyance was that I had to order a second set of tender decals. I had used my usual technique of getting the decal (tender lining) into place and then putting a little 'micro set' solution to soften it so that it went over some rivets better and the decal curled into a U continuing into a flattened strip that could not be opened up. Anyway, picture attached.
  6. Could be the oil/lamp hut. These huts were used to store the signal lamp oil and to fill up the signal lamps as well as the various oil lamps around the station. Waltham, where my Father was the Station Master had a wooden lamp room with an extended end that had been made into a general storage room. I know most of the small stations had such a lamp/oil hut.
  7. Where did you get the lining decals. I couldn't find any red and white with the reverse curve into the cab anywhere? Thanks
  8. Not just Florida but pretty well anywhere in the US (with a few exceptions). It is the same here in Canada with very few exceptions
  9. A friend is trying to fix an Heljan 04 that has a power pick-up issue, i.e. no power is getting to the decoder, The attached shows the power board but there is no distribution identification. Can anyone help? FYI I have done a forum and web search. Thanks Ignore - Sorted.
  10. In response to the comments, I did cut one side of the capacitor, no difference. The J11(Little Engines) does have a Mashima motor as does a recently added A5 and both work well. Also, I have just added Bachmann 3 Car DMU and it works. I did check the tender pickups and they both seem OK and the Claud has actually run more distance than any of them.
  11. Speaking from experience sometimes just going out and puttering,e.g moving the blocks around or even just mindlessly staring at them can help. Good Luck
  12. I dont have 'the usual tender wheel ratling' but a bit of (the right) grease will not hurt. As for the front bogie de-railing again have not had a problem with either of mine but suggest you check the back to back. Both Hornby and Bachmann have them set to close from time to time
  13. Snitzl's Blog occupies a complete page and when I try to load new stuff I keep getting the same page over and over again with entries going back to Dec. Got round the problem by looking at latest entries first.
  14. The consensus seems to be what I was suspecting, that the motors in the two locos are getting hot, probably starting to bind and thus slowing down. Would appear that there isn't a direct solution although I might try a replacement motor just to see. To answer the question I was increasing the Guagemaster voltage into the PWM controller and I am using the PWM controller remotely as a second controller from the main control panel containing the Guagemaster.
  15. A conundrum for the electrical genii on the forum. I have several (cheap) PWM (Pulse Width Modulated) controllers on my layout. They are fed from a standard 4 track Guagemaster controller. On my Bachmann locos (B1 old and new chassises and J11), on locos powered by Mashima motors and on my Hornby Claude they work fine. My Hornby B17 and Black 5 after one circuit (50') start to slow down and if I don't increase the controller speed they eventually come to a complete stop. Measurement of the load voltage shows a drop. Increasing the controller voltage gets them running again but eventually they also come to a stop. On occasion, they will be running fine, then suddenly slow down and just as suddenly speed up. However, they will eventually come to a stop. When I take the PWM controller out of the circuit and apply power directly from the Guagemaster, initially they run slowly but over time they speed up and the voltage can be reduced, almost as though they are undergoing a time related self healing process. If it was just one loco I would be replacing the motor but two is starting to push co-incidence although statistically it is possible that I do have two 'funny' motors. My next plan is to connect an ammeter into the circuit to see if that gives me some insight. I do have a constant 12V power source that could be used as the feed, but it is capable of putting out 15Amps, so if for some reason the load draw has increased I could very quickly ignite the built in smoke capsule. I do have a 2amp (smallest I could get over here) but the motors are can motors and I suspect that even 2 amps might ignite the smoke capsule. Any thoughts, especially to eliminate the problem, would be greatly appreciated. Also from a purely academic perspective any thought are appreciated.
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