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Theakerr last won the day on September 10 2010

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  1. Gentlemen and Ladies, For you J6 models whose decals did you use for the cab numbers? I think I have to get some white numbers. However, about 30 minutes ago I saw a J6 on a Scaleforum video with cream numbers and now would appreciate comments on whether the numbers should be white or cream. Thanks
  2. On a recent Whats Neat, a device to measure scale speed was shown. http://trainelectronics.com/products.htm
  3. Check for clearances. I have fixed a significant number where the piston rod connects with the front wheel nut. If not fixed can do a real number requiring replacement.
  4. Still trying to track down my source.
  5. I have a few questions (not all railway related) that have persisted despite attempts to find answers using the normal channels. One is why the preference for inside cylinder 0-6-0s? From a maintanance perspective an outside cylinder should be much easier to service. I did come across a suggestion that the early wheel bearing quality was such that an outside cylinder would have caused excess wear (due presumably side or twist trust motion) on the bearings and that an inside cylinder arrangement would put a more even load on the bearings. Just curious.
  6. Correct. That is the beauty of the neoprene. It has both strength and flexibility.
  7. Re the whistle information request for my J6, I was in the process of placing an order with British Model Trains here in the GWN and it turned out he had a Markits NE whistle in stock- except that he probably doesn't now as it is on its way to me. Thanks
  8. I have just acquired a sort of built DJH J50 at a price well below the Hornby version. It is complete with wheels and the biggest DJH motor and gearbox i have ever seen. Whilst the body will probably require a complete tear down the chassis seems to be very well put together although some solder strengthening will be done. Next winters project along with a C12
  9. As far as motor and gearboxes are concerned I highly recommend spending the money and going with DJH. I am anxious to try High Level and have an order in place but they are in the COVID hole at the moment and cannot supply. Good communications from them and I am willing to wait. On my DJH A2 valve gear, one side is soldered and one side is riveted. I think the soldered side is better but it took me forever to find suitable pins (in Canada), most are steel covered with Brass and they do not work. I have two old Portescaps doing nothing, one the small one that doesn't whine, will hardl
  10. Do a search on Top up. I posted a how I did it on an A4. The trick was to use a black neoprene protective glove. I have just found the file I put together when I submitted it to the BRMNA journal, see attached. The file should contain pictures as well as a description. I also covered it in Wright Writes. A4 Top Up V1.docx
  11. In theory Yes, otherwise there is a risk that you may get small surface tears, especially if you have to roll it to a small diameter and do a complete tube. Also, by annealing it should be easier to get a true round profile although the use of rolling bars instead of a Heath Robinson set-up will help. However at 15 thou I suspect you will be OK. Do you have enough of the etch that you can do a test roll?
  12. I am close to finishing my Nu-Cast J6 and wondered if anyone know of a source for the cab roof mounted whistle. The one supplied is rather crude and because of its location will be highly visible. Thanks
  13. Cannot comment on the B12s but it was nothing to see 13/14 coaches (mixture of Thompson, Gresly and early MK1s) behind the Cleethorpes, Grimsby, London trains
  14. Painting also minimises dust pick-up.
  15. Same in The Great White North. However, we seem to have a lot of Suits who tell anyone who will listen (or not) that they are in fact Super Geniuses (Genii?)
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