Theakerr

If I were doing this I would go back to 1st principles. First, I would decide that I am going to use cab control. Then I would decide how many cabs - I think you will need at least 4. Decide which is up and which is down. Next is to divide the layout into blocks such that each block is physically independent of each other. Note: you can use multiple blocks to achieve continuous running through the reverse loop. For example I see the loco yard as one block, The green and orange is possibly 4 blocks. A quick look says a redesign of the terminus may be necessary. It will take a bit on mental doodling time but I think at first glance you can do everything you want

I have built about 90% of my signals (00) using Ratio signal kits. The 90% refers not to the number on my layout but the % of the kit used. Specifically, all counterweights and L angle brackets have been replaced with metal ones from Wizzard models. The plastic ones just did not stand up. Because I do not use DCC I have used Megapoints servo boards. Economical and easy to use. I have recently used a new micro servo with a footprint about 1/2 the size of a RC90 (derekm see your thread) therefore much easier to install as a total unit (signal + servo) and for my signals they work more than adequately

I used their brick paper and slate tiles probably 8 or more years ago, Loved them and they have stood the test of time. The only issue i had with them was weathering. I used dry powders on them and found it impossible to remove them when I had used too much powder and very difficult to spread evenly and get a fade out effect. I also found washes were not very effective. In the end I used an air brush with Tamiya accrylics and am reasonably happy. The dark area is where I put too much powder on. I was able to remove some of it and blend it in a bit with a cotton bud soaked in Varsol The rest of the structure was air brushed. The

Suggest you try before going to T-cut. 1) just letting soapy water sit on it, I have seen some of the very old transfers just peel away. Probably because the varnish of the day was not that good. 2) take a cotton bud soaked in meths or IPA and gently wipe across the transfers -after testing on a blind area

Not wasting any time then?

Anyone tried the n-gauge version of the Kadee. I keep thinking I should get a couple and see but never get round to it. I also like the ROCO coupling again turned upside down

Just received my CotN. Boiler lamp iron loose in box, no problem, What is a problem is the 1mm gap on one side and .5mm gap on the other between the cylinder casting and the running plate. A quick look suggests that the running plate is not sitting flush with the main frames and may be sitting high on the very front chassis casting. I have done a quick run through the thread and I see a fair number of all versions with this gap but I could not find any specific comments or corrective actions (and the search engine is to say the least not especially good). However, has anyone seen this issue and corrected it? Thanks

Based on what I saw in China, all three could be correct

Life is not all bad and not all Railway Modelling. I had my first Eccles Cake in probably 20+ years today. May not seem much to you Ladies and Gentlemen on the other side of the pond, but for me it was a life event, especially as the shop brought in some Bakewell Tarts and has promised some 'Custards'. The next great challenge will be to save them for an running session along with a cuppa and watch trains go by.

Sometimes it is hard to believe the quality improvements in kits that have taken place over the last 10 years or less. I do sometimes think should I replace my detailed but generic signal box with one of the new ones that is a) far superior in detail and b) is much more location specific

They say that a photo will show all the gaffes on a model. Well I am learning that a video camera and improved lighting will show up all the gaffes on a layout. So far I have found two Gentlemen who were literally walking on air, numerous trees where the forks of the armatures poke out, one building that I though was bedded in had a couple of gaps at the bay windows. I'm sure the list has just started. However not as bad as my 7 year old grandson born in Canada tell me correctly that a slug of my cars were on the wrong side of the road.

Interesting Thread. I too had delayed placing an order because of the ownership change. Three days ago I sent an e-mail re a N7 chassis and sending it to Canada. No response at all so far. Will give it a few more days to see what happens.

Just to add to the list of Lincolnshire Buss Companies, I have this vague memory that there was one called Applby that operated in the Grimsby, Louth. Brig and Scunthorpe area

Unfortunately right now you cannot get a High Level Gearbox. I have one on order for my Nu-Cast J6 , but for now it is running very nicely with a DJH Gearbox. It will have to remain partially finished until I can get a gearbox and motor.

Not necessarily in order of importance and depends very much on the vintage of the points. a) add a 10 thou shim to the inside of the check rail, b) reduce the 'drop' height in the space between the frog and the point rails using 10 thou plastic sheet, c) ensure the run into the curve is nice and uniform, d) check back to back, e) ensure point is flat, f) fit quality wheels that run true and g) replace older points with newer ones especially if the are facing.

I had also heard that she was a bit of a Wally and that was why she was so often on the local pick-up goods and by default why I was able to cab her many times

Mayflower, a loco I cabbed many times. Bachmann late model body and chassis. Rather than making a new chassis for a 'detailed' old Bachmann body on an old split frame chassis as you do Tony, i just replace the split chassis with the new chassis. I do now have several tenders and bodies though. Re the tender coal backplate when I was researching my Mayflower conversion I found it in both positions depending on the loco even on later totems based on photographs.

I just happen to have a full chassis ordered for an idea that did not work. Did a little bit of 'carving of the plastic at the side of the motor to try to get it to fit. I am in Canada. Suggest you let me know in a couple of days if you want to follow through in case you get an offer on a partial chassis. Its not going anywhere.

In my ignorance, would these cottages have had some sort of flashing around the chimney? It may be there and I cannot see it in the pictures or it may be that cottages like this didn't have flashing. I am not trying to be petty, I dont know and am curious. As a matter of interest I live in Canada near Ottawa and there are a few cottages so similar to these you wouldn't believe it.

Thks for the suggestion Andy, I will see if I can figure out an alternate power source. Due to the opperational frequency it will have to be a 'long term' alternate power source. I had wondered about the servo as the problem and I replaced it with a better quality servo based on price and specs, Now that I think about it the frequency of the problem is way down but not zero. Again a clue for the brain matter to absorb. What a benefit this forum is because until we started discussing the issue I had not clicked to the reduced frequency of the problem (I'm sure it will do it the very next time I run trains) and sort of along your line of thought is I want to make sure i am using the 5V power and not the 3V.

It is an output signal that it seems to get stuck on, about 3/4 through a sketch on a sketch that is duplicated on three other modules and when required to reverse the direction of a servo motor. By reboot you mean switching power off and on - Yes.

Agree I hope in a way that this is the solution. In a way because I have several runs of nearly 20', some use prefabricated wires from a servo supplier and others are using multi-strand computer wire. For the latter there is some built in shielding but looking back I didn't attempt to use the shielded wires for the servo inputs. However, as i mentioned I have one Arduino that sometimes seems to get stuck at a point in the sketch and now I am wondering if the problem could be a stray signal. One input is one of the longer runs.

Just catching up on your thread and a suggestion for the next show from someone who doesn't show anything, i.e. an instant expert! Why not approach the organizers and openly advise them that you would see this 1st show as a practice session because You and your team have not been able to get together. You cannot be alone in this predicament and any show organizer who doesn't recognize the problem is not worth a whole lot. For the actual show make a notice for the punters stating the situation and that things may not work the way they should. I suspect that there might be a lot of sympathy/empathy from the show goers. Regardless Good Luck.

It is an interesting and appears very effective although a bit expensive. I had some correspondence with the proprietor after watching the video and what I found potentially interesting is the output is compatable with an Arduino or similar.

From the beginning (and before DCC ) 'New Waltham' was designed to be a layout to watch trains go by and at realistic speeds. In the beginning there were 6 hidden sidings in each direction and later modified to 9. Manual operation proved difficult because I could not find a system to accurately locate the position of the train in its respective siding needed to switch the points and bring out another train. also the ambiance associated with watching trains go by just was not there. With my current system, watching trains can be completely hands off, as it is mostly, thus allowing the consumption of the desired beverage, model construction or simply puttering. A complete cycle of all 18 trains takes about 28 mins and there are times when there is no train on the visible part of the layout. An express can go through the scenic-ed section in about 45 secs and a slow loaded coal train can take somewhere between 2 and 3 mins (must actually time them) Works for me