Theakerr

You might want to change output pins or swap them around to see if a particular pin has an effect. As you know some of the Arduino pins have multiple functions and, if I remember correctly the Mega has some Wi Fi capability built into it. I shall follow this thread because I have 4 station stop modules each with its own Arduino.

First, many thanks for all the responses to my signalling question. Second, an even bigger thanks because it was actually the answer I was hoping for. A little background, I have a DC automated fiddle yard built so that I can watch trains go by and want to synchronize my signals with the trains as they come into the layout room. It will be relatively easy with this information because I will not have to set up new protocols associated with my Arduino controlled automatic station stop modules. I know I can do all this with DCC but a) it would be a very expensive proposition, b) DC does everything I want it to and c) I like the challenge finding it keeps my brain active in my dotage.

A signaling technical question because one answer would make life easier to synchronize the signals with the trains. I suspect the answer will not be that one I would prefer but it doesn't hurt to ask the collective knowledge of the thread. So on a through passenger train scheduled to stop at a station would the home starter always be set against it (and not pulled off until the signalman was ready), or if the block was clear could the home starter signal be set to clear with the process of stopping controlled by the driver knowing he had to stop at that station? Fingers crossed!

Model Railways are quiet a global phenomena. Last night watching a railway journey video in China, the author showed the Bachmann shop in Shanghai station. Three full display cases, Some pretty neat stuff.

Model Railways are quiet a global phenomena. Last night watching a railway journey video in China, the author showed the Bachmann shop in Shanghai station. Three full display cases, Some pretty neat stuff. See reason for Edit

Dont forget if you die intestate the state will have a field day and take for their services potentially as much as 90%. So make a will just to stop the hanger ons, etc. getting the money

I'm waiting for a cast metal body Hornby Doublo A4. It's only a matter of time as the song goes.

Here in Canada, we have just entered the three week dash to get yard-work done before the six weeks of summer start. So for model railways only minor projects tend to be undertaken and last night I pulled out one that has been sitting around for t least 10 (15?) years - a Bachmann J38 that never ran very well. I had remembered some time back someone had posted, I think on the this thread, that poor running of a split Bachmann chassis loco was significantly improved by adding pick-ups and having some of the trusty DCC Concepts pick-up around I decided to fit them. After removal of some plastic chassis detail that cannot be seen, they dropped in as though they were made to fit and can hardly be seen even before painting. Screwed directly to the plastic chassis keeper plate, what a difference in running and cheap. Next challenge is to add some sort of bushing and spacer washers to the centre driver which move around like it has drunk a full bottle of Stolichnaya. Should have added that I have converted two other with new chassis and one with A DJH gearbox and another with a SE Finecast gearbox (Thanks Tony & Finecast). For this i just wanted to see what I could do on the cheap and it should be applicable to other poor running split chassis Bachmann Locos since I have at least one B1

Did not mean to tag Tony's response to Barry 10's video, but cannot find out how to delete this response once started. Anyway. now it is started. I agree with Tony Barry 10, loved the Allotments. When you say tender drive is that a shaft drive or tender drive like the old Hornby?

My second video. I think i might give myself a better camera for my birthday, but it will be a challenge to fight the right one. There are so many out there and I don't have a lot of faith in the reviews anymore.

Its been a while since the J6 was a subject of discussion but in the meantime I have been playing around at making a U-Tube video of my J6. I am using a 12/15 year old camera primarily designed for still shots and this is my first U-tube video so I am open to comments of all kinds. As for the loco, the main chassis is not finished because I don't know what the final drive system will be. As referenced in the video I have an alternate drive train on order from High Level, but it may be some time before they can supply. I am also fascinated by Chuffer Davies shaft drive system which with a little adaption might be appropriate for 00. Finally, and this will seem sacrilege, if they ever get back to me Ferro-Trains vario drive might just work as a tender drive. Finally, I had thought about driving off the back wheels, but whilst I can achieve very free running with the drive on the centre axle, when I try to use the rear axle it binds rather badly,

As in the Pub name 'England and Andover'

D of C was not stored under the best of conditions over here (and according to rumors has recently been moved back to those conditions) and therefore the colour in the video picture may not be representative.

Seeing as Wright Writes is LNER focused I thought I would post this here. However if Andy wants to move it elsewhere feel free. The Great Home Coming

I have a Bachmann 2-10-0 and it is both an excellent runner and hauler. However, I was talking to another modeller in the area and his 2-10-0 and he is very unhappy with the hauling capacity. At sometime when we can meet up again I will take mine and have a look at his (I like fixing things) but in anticipation any thoughts on what to look for based on personal experience?

I had been trying to place an order from Canada for about a month, but was unable to complete the transaction. I phoned last week and got through immediately. Jim told me he had just come out of Hospital after having a delayed eye operation, that he could hardly see, that it would be like that for at least a couple of weeks. We agreed that I would send him an e-mail with my requirements and that when he could complete the order he would e-mail me and I would phone with the CC details - He is aware of the web problem and he is trying to get it sorted.

Rumble motor ! What a neat idea. One that I will store away.

Micro Trains in the US. In fact the picture looks like one on their website

There are a lot of good videos out there for model Railways and Model Railroads. Some are a bit over the top but IMOHP think this Guy is one of the better ones

Folks, should the cab numbers on a BR J6 be white or cream? I have located 3 colour pictures and every one the numbers are white. I have seen Two J6s on layouts with cream numbers - Tony despite looking at about 30 pages, I cannot find the pictures I know you posted of your J6. Thks Some things are hard to believe. Tony, you have just posted the very pictures that I was looking for. It does appear that your numbers are cream and it just so happens that I have some cream numbers.

A good two part epoxy (J. B. Weld here in Canada) to fill in the dents after roughing up and degreasing the surface. Then before it sets use a cotton bud soaked in varsol to smooth and rough shape the surface, this can safe a lot of sanding. Repeat if necessary and finish off with a quality automobile glazing/spot putty or Milliput, sand to shape and finish using wet and dry. For a non expert it is a lot safer that trying to fill with solder and you will have to use spot putty anyway.

Gentlemen and Ladies, For you J6 models whose decals did you use for the cab numbers? I think I have to get some white numbers. However, about 30 minutes ago I saw a J6 on a Scaleforum video with cream numbers and now would appreciate comments on whether the numbers should be white or cream. Thanks

On a recent Whats Neat, a device to measure scale speed was shown. http://trainelectronics.com/products.htm

Check for clearances. I have fixed a significant number where the piston rod connects with the front wheel nut. If not fixed can do a real number requiring replacement.

Still trying to track down my source.