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Ruston

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Ruston last won the day on June 3 2013

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  1. What or who are EFE Rail and what model are you referring to?
  2. Thanks. It was 1976 when it was sold from BR so it would never have been fitted with air brakes.
  3. Obviously it depends on your layout's gradients and the size of trains you want to move but the Avonside, with Peckett chassis weighs 112g, of which at least 90g is the chassis. If you have a printed plastic chassis the whole thing isn't going to weigh much at all. Of course you will be able to get some lead in the body but nothing like as much as you would with an etched kit as the walls of the print are a lot thicker. I would also think that a printed plastic chassis would have to be solid and would leave no space for weight between the frame plates. If and when I get around to it, my chassis will be milled brass and there will be space in between the frame plates for additional weight, plus whatever can be got in the body once it isn't fully occupied by the Hornby motor/gearbox.
  4. Another British Oak locomotive is finished. It's a renumber of 08243 that I bought second hand, from ebay. It's got the right sort of door panels ad hinges for 08016 but until it arrived I didn't know that it hasn't got the battery(?) box at the other side, which 08016 had. I'll just have to view it from this side only. I've done it in pre-1985 condition, before the repaint into dark blue. Apart from the renumbering I've changed the hand rails at the front and have removed the centre marker light under the radiator. I have of course weathered it.
  5. Where I said in the OP that some had 3ft. 6in. wheels I was referring to some of those with the flat-sided tanks. There were several of these in the Nothants ironstone industry that are shown in Eric Tonks' books as having 3ft. 6in. dia. wheels but I have been informed by @1whitemoor that they were in fact only 3ft. 4in. and the infomation in the book is wrong.
  6. The one in the first video wouldn't be at all suitable. I don't know what the engine is but it sounds to be a high-speed type. The Simplex with Dorman diesel would be as near as possible as I know some of these Hibberds did have Dormans and the gearbox in the Hibberd would have been a rip-off of the Simplex gearbox.
  7. Probably not a Gardner as I doubt there wouldn't be the space for one. I think some may have used Dorman engines. I have one of these kits to build and was thinking of using the 44/48HP narrow gauge Ruston sounds simply because the soundfilesounds different to the 48DS and it's still a slow-running engine on a mechanical transmission. There are other narrow gauge diesel sound files out there - I saw and heard some Simplexes running on a layout at Pontefract exhibition earlier this year but I don't know where they are available from.
  8. I mixed it myself. Humbrol 100 and whatever Humbrol yellow I happened to have. 154 or something, I think.
  9. The 3F is now fully Pepperised, with the extra sand box that it ran with at British Oak. The sand box may have come off a Hudswell Clarke that worked there and was scrapped in 1967. .
  10. As far as the kit is concerned, the Avonside is finished. It needs a few details adding that are not part of the kit. These are lamp irons (I never bother with the full set on an industrial unless it's a particular prototype that had them), at least one on the front of the tank and one on the rear of the bunker. As mentioned before, the reach rod and injectors. The couplings shown are my own and are not part of the kit. It also needs weathering, crew figures and some coal in the bunker. This is my first go at a 3D-printed kit and I have to say it's been enjoyable. It's a strange material to work with when you're used to brass and styrene but because there's really not a lot to do but glue a few parts together, do some sanding and paint the thing, progress is rapid. I was very sceptical about the finish after seeing so many completed 3D-printed models that are still covered in print lines but I'm surprised how well this has come out. There are still some lines there as it's virtually impossible to eliminate them when you have to work around rivet detail but it's nothing like as bad as I expected. Corbs and Adam say up front in their instructions (that are online so you can read them before purchase) that there are compromises in the kit in order for it to fit a RTR chassis and they describe them. This is to be commended as it allows the buyer to make an informed choice and shows they have done their research. One thing that can definitely be improved upon would be to have locating holes in the running plate and pegs on the bottom of the sand boxes. Another is not to end page two of the instuctions with a "thanks" paragraph, followed by the rest of the page being empty. I thought this was the end of the instructions and so, as it happened, I didnt read any of the actual instructions until after I'd built the thing - D'oh!
  11. There are no injectors or reach rod provided in the kit, so these will have to be made. Toward the rear of the boiler, the gearbox of the Peckett chassis is visible due to the Avonside boiler being longer. Fitting a reach rod and adding some oil cans to the running plate may help to disguise this.
  12. Do you mean this photo? https://bristolharbourrailway.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/portbury-restoration.jpg?w=523&h=&zoom=2 The shape is right but on the prototype it's like that so the firebox can fit within the frames. On the model you have to remember that anything made to OO is too narrow anyway and the way the backhead has been made to fit inside the back of the tank/boiler, rather than butting up against it has meant it has been made even narrower. It isn't a specific prototype so I'm painting it green to match the Peckett chassis.
  13. I gave everything a coat of primer and then a rub with 1000 grade wet and dry paper but this didn't appear to have much of an effect on the print ridges, so I sprayed it again and tried 400 grade., followed by 1000 grade again. All this rubbing is tedious and it's difficult to do without destroying the rivet detail and even now I haven't managed to get rid of it all. It does look much better though and I don't know if it's just that I'm so aware and critical of it but I think it's now alright at "normal viewing distances". The boiler backhead seems small and of a strange shape, with it tapering in toward the bottom but as the loco has an overall cab and such detail will be barely visible, that doesn't bother me and I won't be changing it.
  14. No but the bodywork of the B2 is the same as a C-class, which was inside-cylindered and on 3ft. 2 1/2in. wheels. I have a spare Peckett body that I plan to build a chassis for to convert it to a C. I may eventually build a chassis for this Avonside with the correct wheel spacing and reunite the Peckett chassis and body.
  15. This is definitely a first for me. I've never built a 3D-printed kit before and so here goes... The kit is from Corbs, at his railwaymania.net store but this particular version isn't on general sale yet. It's designed to fit on the Hornby Peckett 0-6-0ST chassis. The wheel diamters on these Avonsides differed between individual engines, so the Peckett's 3ft. 7in. dia, wheels are going to be more of a compromise on some prototypes than others. I understand that some were as small as 3ft. 4in., others were 3ft. 6in. and some were even 4ft. 0 1/2in. There may even be others. I don't know what the prototype Avonside wheelbase was but the Peckett was 10ft. There really isn't a lot to it and it's really only a mattter of glueing parts together but the key to making it a good model is going to be the finish as 3D-printing, unless done on the most expensive and up-to-date printers, seems, inevitably, to have print lines. The version that I am building is with flat tank sides and rivets, which will make this task more difficult. Unlike some printed kits that I have seen, the design is more clever and instead of an ill-fitting, and far too thick, cab roof, the roof is already part of the cab and the cab is a separate part that fits on the running plate in much the same way as Hornby do it on their Peckett model. Other features that similar kits don't have are separate buffers. This should not only make it easier to prepare the surface of the buffer beam but will make replacement of the buffer easier in the event of damage. It will also make easier the fitting of alternative buffers. Here are the printed parts. The detail parts on the sprue. The underside of the running plate still has the remains of the support sprues, which will need to be flattened in order to get it to sit properly on the Hornby chassis. A similar situation on the bottom of the tank but I don't expect this to be a problem as it won't be visible once assembled and a tentative scratch of the material has shown it to be quite soft. A cruel close-up of the tank side. I'll crack on and see how it goes...
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