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Ruston

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Blog Comments posted by Ruston

  1. 13 hours ago, Regularity said:

    Wouldn’t that defeat the object of the kit, which is to show the wooden framework?

    Perhaps but then it would still be visible as shadow underneath with light coming through it, just as it does on the real thing. It's obviously not possible on normal plastic models so I think it would be great.

  2. 4 hours ago, Knuckles said:

    OP must vehemently but respectfully disagree.  I’m drawing from my personal pool of experience since circa 2006 on various platforms so I know what I’m on about, at least in my experiential reality of what has happened; you may have had a different experience.  

    My experience is that my threads never get a great deal of conversation. I don't know if that's because the subject matter isn't mainstream, or because my posting style is boring.

    It's most likely the latter because I can look around various layout or workbench threads here on rmweb and find some that have dozens of replies each week but contain very little actual modelling by their originators.

     

     

    • Agree 2
  3. I wonder if the OP remembers, many years ago, a thread on this very forum where people moaned about how folks would post "me too" in response to someone saying how they liked something. That was before the like etc. buttons were added and you'd get a whole list of people saying nothing worthwhile but who were showing their appreciation for the poster's work and them having taken the time to post it. You can't please everyone...

     

    The OP's argument here is that these buttons are taking away conversation but I don't think that's true. I don't think that if those buttons were taken away that my threads would be full of conversation; I just think that they would be still as empty but I would have no idea if anyone appreciated anything I was posting and so I wouldn't bother posting them at all.

     

    • Like 1
    • Agree 4
    • Friendly/supportive 1
  4. Ah, Cap'n! You can still change your track layout if you use PVA glue. Just wet the ballast thoroughly and the whole of the ballast and glue holding the track down disintegrates so track can be removed. In some ways it's better than prising out buried track pins, or the risk of missing a pin and having it pull the sleepers off rails as you attempt to lift the track.

  5. How are you going to arrange the final drive from the N20 to the axle?

     

    Edit: answer in part 2!

    The 3mm output shaft on the gearbox will have a cut down plastic spur gear on it. The spur gear is a push-fit on the shaft. I will turn a brass carrier for the plastic crown wheel, which will be cross-drilled to take a 12BA screw to hold the carrier to the locomotive axle. There should be space to allow the crown wheel to be disengaged, by loosening the carrier and sliding it out of mesh, so that the locomotive axle can rotate whilst fitting up the motion.

  6. What type of Simplex is this? If it's the 20HP type, as built for the WDLR, it wouldn't have had a horn like the one in your sound clip. More likely a plunger-operated Klaxon. It it's the later types, such as the plate frame 20/28HP types, it should have a whistle that worked off the exhaust.

     

    I don't know what's in the videos that have been posted as I can't view them on my computer.

  7. I'm sure there were but they didn't have an alternative. I considered converting it to the industrial version but then again the amount of time and effort to bring it up to scratch isn't worth it when High Level do a proper job in etched brass.

     

    That ogee-shaped tank could come in useful as part of a scratchbuild for either an early Barclay, or a Yorkshire, and the smokebox casting is quite interesting. I have plans for that as the front of a grounded ex-locomotive boiler that would be powering a pugmill at a brickworks.

  8. You're sort of correct about printing white. My Canon MG2150 inkjet printer can't but I think there are some inkjets that now can print white, but I don't know any more than that. There are other types of printer that can print white but they're very expensive.

     

    Anyway, the experiment with the wagons had mixed results. On one I had printed and fitted the entire side as one piece - thinking that it would settle into all the raised detail, as happens with aricraft decals, but the film is much thicker and it wouldn't settle right down.

     

    The other coal wagon had the pieces fitted seperately, which meant only small areas of the strapping and the drop door chains were covered as far as raised detail goes and so it didn't show as much but the only real success was with the stone wagon, where the decal was fitted only on the flat planks.

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