dasatcopthorne

UPDATE. someone on another group has advised that things have changes since 1971. At the least the double dips on the ramps have gone and the pot spacing is now often every 6 sleepers except on curves. Dave

I knew I had this somewhere and during a tidy up it has come to light. I cannot remember how I came by it or who did the drawing but here it is. I think the pot spacing has now stretched to 5 sleepers. May be because conductor rail is lighter. Only guessing. Hope it helps some of you. Please spread it around. Dave.

A small update on the housing. Friend Tony Jeans has now printed some doors with recessed panels. However, because that would make the door quite think I asked him to make the recessed panels actually holes. I am then able to back them with coloured card. Dave.

Darius. When I made my EMUs I used wood for many of the underframes boxes etc. I used wood 'mouldings' which is Ramin. A very shapeable wood. Buying in the right sizes saves a lot of cutting and filing. For tanks I often used round Ramin dowelling or resistors. Here's a few pics of bits. The strapping on the battery box are strips of insulating tape. Dave.

I think this is just the right place for this query. It's not a slagging off and I find Wayne has always been open to remarks and suggestions. After all, this is a discussion forum. Dave.

Wow! Looking fantastick Dave.

Here is what I would call 'a very lightly wired board'. This is a DCC board with the Bus in red & Grey wires. The motors are DC. Using solder tags gives you 'test points' in various locations to track and faults or prove your wiring before connection. No much on it. However the principal is the same. Locate and decide what wires you will need. Make a list and number and name all your wires in a list. Start from one end/point on a board (a plug socket or terminal strip and run all the wires as you go, keeping to a 'map' of where you have decided they will run. Use cable ties (or if you can find some, lacing twine/waxed cotton thread) to keep the bundles tidy. Keep the bundles loose at first, tightening them up when complete. Good luck. Dave.

The 'W' s SRman. Dave.

GD. Thanks so much. Sorted and lights on. Dave.

Hi All. New Class 33 21 pin board fitted loco. Could someone help me with where the Headcode leads plug into the PCB please? Mine are loose Dave.

My friend has now printed (3D) a better door and some window styles in preparation for a full install. Also here I have installed some window sills. Dave.

Here are two effects I have obtained from the filler but I am still awaiting contact from my club colleague with the name. What I do know is that it is for skimming over taped joints in plasterboard. Dave.

I've tried a few and found what I think is the best. I currently only have a sample that a friend gave me. Tommorow I will contact him and get the name and will post a picture of what I have done so far. It's on another computer I'm afraid. Dave.

Along the rear of the extension board and behind the parapet I proposed to have a row of 'cottages'. Found on the www and played about with, duplicated and joined together. I'm hoping to obtain some specially 3D printed doors and matbe some window frames to add depth. Dave.

Finally, last evening I had a chance to test me 37001 after having it for a week. Oh dear. Not happy. First thing is the sound cuts out on start up. I use a power cab. I remembered something in this thread so tracked it down and found the bit about reducing the sound. How ridiculous! Anyway, it worked but it is too quiet to hear at an exhibition. Lovely model and the flange squeal is great. BUT. I have to fiddle with more keys than should be necessary to turn it on. Key 2 states 'Brake' but it is only the sound and has no effect. Key 2 on NCE equipment is usually the horn, so the Horn button also gives you a brake release sound. Several other functions are beyond the easily to hand keys of an NCE throttle. I don't mind making one or two changes to a chip but this is too much to pay for a lot of fiddling. I pre-ordered mine and I don't remember seeing anything about it requiring a certain level of power before it will fully function. Sorry Accurascale, you can have it back or I will eBay it and make some money. Dave.

Whilst I await space to put the extension board together, I've been messing about with little bits and pieces. Along the back 'wall' of the board will be a high lever wall with these arches on the front. There are from Lcut Creative. Avery well thought out kit. The bridge on Elbow Lane is from the same manufacturer. Also put together a couple of Wills lineside cabinet kits. on what will be a concrete base. Dave.

Maybe the rotary encoder in the throttle needs replacing. This is what is connected to the thumb wheel inside the handset. This is easily done and involves de-soldering the current component and soldering a new one in. Available on eBay. There's probably a Youtube video to show you how. I've done two or three. The symptom is when you wind the wheel up/down, the step numbers jump all over the place. Dave.

For the extension board O have decided to use a slightly differing method for feeding all the droppers. This central block will be used as a single distribution point for the track bus. I chose one with eight connections each side and a plastic cover. You're probably getting the gist by now that I'm trying to minimise fiddling with wires and a hot soldering iron. I would have used pre-formed D-Sub cables but the wire used is a bit too thin for possible DCC currents. Dave.

I seem to remember at least one of the Nicktun layouts being built to 00_SF 16.2mm. Dave.

A very interesting point about YouTube channel owners featuring builders' layouts and earning money from advertisers. I have never considered that. Dave.

Great, thanks Steve. Dave.

My comment was a pointer to DSMs. Who sell a servo controller, as requested by the OP. Nothing to do with mounts. Dave.

The OP said it was a temp fault found at an exhibition when rails from the adjacent board touched. No doubt expanded in the heat. Dave.

Hello. At Warley at the weekend I spied my ideal gap filler building. It was on a Belgium layout so probably continental. The grey one fixed to the background and with lit windows. Does anyone know its pedigree please? Dave.