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Rhubarb Loop

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About Rhubarb Loop

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  • Location
    Totnes, UK
  • Interests
    GWR/BR(W) Signalling, Broad Gauge, S&DJR, Royal Albert Bridge

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  1. It was featured in Your Model Railway magazine, March 1986.
  2. Hi Mark, Thank you so much for the update. It's always a pain when real life gets in the way of far more important activities like model railways! One thing I forgot to ask... I stumbled across your layout while I researched CBUS for my next project. I'm gradually getting my head around it all. Presumably the "relay boards" for the electro magnets are just the MERG "U-RLY Universal Relay Mounting PCB" (Kit 921) kits or similar? Cheers, Alex
  3. Can we have another update please Mark? I need to see some more neat wiring photographs to feed my addiction! Cheers, Alex
  4. By complete coincidence, today I've discovered a number of Peter Gray's photographs available to buy online. http://www.transporttreasury.com/p1033857966/ea968c9b3 Maybe a large scale print and a magnifying glass would reveal the detail you're after? Cheers, Alex
  5. In "Railway Scenes From The Past: 19 - Railways In And Around Newton Abbot And Torbay" by C. R. Potts there is a marvellous photograph captioned: Assuming everyone's understanding of the allocations are correct, the train is formed thus: Hall Class 4-6-0 No. 4934 Hindlip Hall DW3 Bogie Match Truck Crane No. 3 Ransomes & Rapier 36-Ton DW3A Match Truck / Crane Tender / Weight Tender (sheeted) DW8 Match Truck Crane No. 8 Cowans Sheldon Standard 15-Ton –Mk2 Swan-necked Jib Four Wheel Riding Van BR Standard Brake Van 5101 Class 2-6-2T No. 5183 It's a superb photograph and well worth tracking down if you haven't already seen it. I was wondering, does anyone have any details about the little 2 axle mess coach? Presumably it was part of Newton Abbot's Breakdown Train. It's quite a clear photograph so assuming there were no early shenanigans and it's an ex GWR passenger vehicle I should be able to work out which diagram of carriage it was in its earlier life. If it did end up at Didcot, is it this one perhaps? http://www.cs.vintagecarriagestrust.org/se/CarriageInfo.asp?Ref=64 Cheers, Alex
  6. Randomly returned to this thread, as you do, and I can now see the Clarke Sandblaster. I must have been using a work computer, many imagine hosting websites are annoyingly blocked!
  7. Hi James, Except perhaps some old siding it would all be flat bottom. Maybe I missed it but what was your objection to using PECO? I’d have thought their Code 55 concrete plain track ( https://www.peco-uk.com/product.asp?strParents=3309,3310&CAT_ID=3315&P_ID=17117 ) and Code 55 turnouts ( e.g. https://www.peco-uk.com/product.asp?strParents=3309,3310&CAT_ID=3315&P_ID=17103 ) would suit your needs admirably. If prototype fidelity is essential then FiNetrax is probably the way to go. But with those curves and ambitious staging yard I’d certainly rule out 2mm Finescale. Alex
  8. I wasn't born until 1983 so I'll admit my knowledge of the 1980's Thames Valley scene is limited. I've tried looking for photographs online, but I'm currently limited by work internett access (can't get Flickr etc.), however my gut feeling was that concrete bearer turnouts would have been incredibly rare in 1989. All the junctions on the Thames Valley would have been re-modelled in the 1960's when the panel box schemes (Slough 1963, Reading 1965 and Old Oak 1967) were done. Concrete bearers for turnouts, as far as I'm aware, didn't become prevalent until the 1990's so probably featured in the Slough IECC resignalling and closure of Old Oak Panel in the mid 1990's at the earliest. Based on what I've read about your project so far. If I were you I'd go for PECO timber points and concrete plain track and stick to N gauge. As others have said it would be an ambitious project in 2mm Finescale and I think if PECO track is well laid, painted and the layout presented at a suitable height you'll find it suitable for the intense operation recreation of a Western mainline you desire. Cheers, Alex
  9. It seems Nigel is already ahead of you Jerry. Not sure how this quote will appear but I found Nigel's initial post lurking in the "What's on your 2mm Work bench" thread... The Fowler 2P comment was more tongue and cheek because to my Western eyes I can never tell the two apart. Though, if the reverser is the only obvious difference in our scale (presumably aside from dome and chimney) my eyes aren't as bad as I first thought... Alex
  10. My knowledge of all things Midland, and especially the relationship between the MR Johnson '483' Class and LMS Fowler 2Ps is always a bit sketchy. 40505 and 40509 would haven been 483's would they not? Presumably a Fowler 2P kit will be following after you've done all this hard work? Alex
  11. Nigel, Very interested indeed! I'm a bit late to the party on this one, are you test building a future kit? Cheers, Alex
  12. Well, The linked article suggests: VR1 - 10K TR1 - Any small signal or general purpose NPN such as 2N2222A, BC107, BC109 TR2 - NPN power transistor capable of handling at least 3A and 20V such as TIP31A, TIP31C, TIP41A or 2N3055 F1 - one amp fuse as some basic overload protection I've tried looking on the Maplin and RS Components for a 10KΩ potentiometer and matching knob, not as easy as I thought. I'm sure we used to use ones like these https://www.maplin.co.uk/p/10k-andohm-miniature-log-single-gang-potentiometer-jm77j all the time when I was at school and there were matching knobs to go with it. I'm looking for something more visually appealing than a bare wire and crocodile clip really, appearance is just as important as function. Ideally a panel mounted knob and direction switch with electrical gubbins hidden out of sight. If the circuit above will actually vary the current (which would hide faults) would I be better old fashioned rheostat controller, perhaps the Hammant and Morgan Minipack?! Cheers, Alex
  13. Ah, thanks guys! Armed with a couple of searchable terms I came across this basic controller design... From this article -> http://www.instructables.com/id/Simple-controllers-for-DC-motors-inc-PWM-inertia/ I'm guessing that should do the trick nicely? Presumably an analogue ammeter would be useful. Would one such as this http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/analogue-panel-ammeters/0244834/ do the trick if inserted prior to the direction reversing switch? Thanks for you help so far! Alex
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