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The Fatadder

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  1. Reusing old transfers
    Rejuvenating Old transfers

    If the tacky has dried out on pressfix transfers rendering them useless try turning them into the methfix version. This is easily done by purchasing a bottle of SPECIAL PALE FRENCH POLISH from Squires (??6.49), painting a thin coat all over the sheet on the 'tacky' side. Then when dry (only a few minutes) use exactly the same as methfix transfers. (That is exactly what you have created)

     

    I have coated all my old sheets and saved a small fortune at around ??17.00 for the HMRS sheets.

     

    This loco was done using that method as the 'tacky'had completely dried out

     

    post-150-1260392373455_thumb.jpg


  2. GWR seats
    Henley on Thames - GWR in the 1930's
    2 hours ago, Siberian Snooper said:

    Southwark Models do GW etched brass seats, but you will have to ring Dave at Roxey Mouldings to order them as none of the range is listed on the website.

     

    01392 245439

     

     

     

    Thanks again....

     

    The seats are listed, as are some lovely looking GWR Barrows:

     

    https://www.roxeymouldings.co.uk/product/874/sbm4115-gwr-platform-seat-kit-shirt-button-end-2-/

     

    146422045_GWRseats.jpg.421b336ce3451f340651a55a38595370.jpg

     

    They also have the GWR curly logo seats:

    https://www.roxeymouldings.co.uk/product/873/sbm4114-gwr-platform-seat-kit-entwined-gwr-2-/

     

    I wonder how many I need..... Clearly it's a need, not a want. :-)

     

    https://www.roxeymouldings.co.uk/product/868/sbm4113-gwr-goods-hand-barrow-kit-2-/

     

    641280255_GWRBarrow.jpg.9e8c8b7b53daff94496a63275ab019f7.jpg

     

    Thanks again for the suggestion @Siberian Snooper


  3. Lining pen use
    How to hone/dress and use a ruling pen

    My last video uploaded to YouTube covered how to hone a cheap ruling pen. I took some drastic action to get it into a working state, but what happens if you have a better quality pen to start with?

     

    For years I have kept a lookout for old drawing instruments at boot fairs, antique fairs and online auction sites. Generally speaking the older instruments are usually of a finer quality and need to be dressed with a little more finesse that I did in the YouTube video. As I wanted to be able to add closeup images I decided simple photographs would suffice along with some descriptive words.

     

    My starting point for this exercise is an unbranded pen bought as a job lot. As is often the case it has no handle however the blades are in good condition and nice and thin:

    IMG_2394.JPG.6017f33abcc11f3f8ba1720259bfe0de.JPG

     

    I mentioned in the video that I have been known to make a new handle out of aluminium tube. In this instance I also needed a length of brass tube to act as a spacer. Both were cut to length:

    IMG_2396.JPG.088a02f6891040a41688ec5ee8eddd2d.JPG

     

    5 minute epoxy has been used to glue the inner and outer handle together and to the pen:

    IMG_2398.JPG.4796f13bc87a5ea456cf995ef8fba564.JPG

     

    Only 1200 grit wet and dry was used in the dressing process along with a good magnifier:

    IMG_2400.JPG.688347a1a029733ae2dfb11f6861ae19.JPG

     

    As in the video the blades were carefully reshaped:

    IMG_2401.JPG.6b244ceb957c4e712703312d20b43c0d.JPG

     

    Under magnification the tips look like this. The tip ends are a slightly different profile:

    S20200423_0003.jpg.29e691a7b8753225a1050428580f445d.jpg

     

    The tips are slightly different lengths. Some thinning of the blades can also be done:

    S20200423_0006.jpg.ceb5180d51ac61bdfd4bce2747dcbf0f.jpg

     

    Using 1200 grit wet and dry the first task was to get the tips to match so they are the same length:

    S20200423_0008.jpg.3a9f28df89305deb10184dc0302fa69a.jpg

     

    and the same profile:

    S20200423_0009.jpg.4b0bade2816912b0e98316565ddacafb.jpg

     

    Working slowly and with constant reference to the magnifier I have refined the tips with the 1200 grit smoothing them off and thinning the edges:

    S20200423_0013.jpg.055901f8af66d7351e28cf5968fb624e.jpg

     

    S20200423_0014.jpg.f96a77c15ca8480413967921bc39468b.jpg


    With the pen prepared I could now try and see what it could achieve. It also managed to draw thinner lines but the pigment in the Humbrol Enamel could not be seen:

    IMG_2404.JPG.494fc4bdf5b67affaad9173bc62f4548.JPG

     

    Honing can be addictive. I thought I could probably improve the pen still further so thinned the blades a bit more and polished them with jeweller's rouge in a minidrill:

    S20200427_0008.jpg.cbddee2a8828cf954ac991a444b2d1d7.jpg

     

    And after retesting:

    IMG_2433.JPG.14ef7d90d647f6389684cb997e9707c3.JPG

     

    So with a pen prepared time to actually use it for lining.

     

    Part 1:

     

    Part 2:

     

    Something that does not come over very well in the videos is how to fill the pen.

     

    A tin of Humbrol is stirred using a cocktail stick:

    IMG_2428.JPG.c39a7293c470cdee11d16c0f6686b4e3.JPG

     

    Some of the stirred paint is transferred to the pen:

    IMG_2429.JPG.c2f58215472ca397bbf9d5be7d36c7a5.JPG

     

    The transferred paint is wiped over the blades leaving paint between them:

    IMG_2430.JPG.db424afe48a0700db76b26cf726d13a3.JPG

     

    Finally any excess on the outside of the blades is wiped off (the grot behind the pen on the tissue is where I had cleaned the Humbrol paint lid and rim previously ensuring the lid would go on and give a good seal):

    IMG_2431.JPG.df92ffd8cd7942e4a8962f24d610d206.JPG

     

    Once again some aspects could be imroved in the videos so I took the opportunity to reshoot:

     

    Hope this topic proves of use. Happy to attempt to answer any questions.

     


  4. GWR no 8 crane
    Standard Cowans Sheldon 15T Crane (mk1 and mk2 Jib) announced!
    23 hours ago, Compound2632 said:

     

    As two of the prototypes, Stoke (BR) and Wellingborough (LMS) are cranes from the Midland's 1893 batch, there's a prima facie case that one of the versions will be the curved jib type, corresponding (in original condition) to the photo use in the publicity, with all the implications as to jib length and intermediate shaft bearings. I'm not familiar with the other two prototypes: are these the swan-necked type?

     

    Remember that it is possible that you know more about the detail variations in these cranes than do Oxford Rail, who may well be working from a single set of drawings.

     

    The other two cranes were both equipped with a swan neck jib - the problem lies in that according to the Tatlow volume,  one (901628) was equipped with a short (24 feet) jib whilst the other (DS.316) was given a longer (26 feet) jib.

     

    This being the case then at least one of them will be wrong if the specimens were chosen on the basis of having a swan neck jib without realising that jib lengths differed.

     

    I emailed Oxford Rail to ask what length of jib was planned for the swan necked variants but as yet I haven't heard anything back.

     

    I'm interested in a swan necked variant to pose as RS1021/15, allocated to Bolton Yard between 1960-65  so I'm in with a 50:50 chance of it being the required long jib type (it won't be the end of the world if it comes with a short jib as it should be easier to add length rather than remove it).

     

    Therefore as it stands the curved jib MR variants should be the more likely of the two sets to be accurate in respect of jib length given they were both the same long jib type (presuming Oxford don't tool them with a short jib!).

     

    EDIT: I've just looked at what drawings are available in the Tatlow volume to see what Oxford could use as a reference.

     

    The curved jib variant is depicted with a detailed drawing showing both long or short jibs whilst the detailed drawing for the swan necked type depicts the crane supplied to the SER with a long jib (the drawing doesn't show the short version unlike that for the curved type).

     


  5. GWR K22 Full Break
    GWR K22 Full Brake from Worsley Works etchings (00)

    Inspired by Robin on A Nod To Brent I decided my fleet lacked a GWR Full Brake. with help from the chaps on ANTB I selected the Worsley Works etched sides and ends for a K22 Toplight.

     

    Edit to say I have had an issue with photo download so this will continue shortly......


  6. Cornish Riveria Formation
    GWR Hawksworth coaches pre nationalisation

    If it helps, here is the formation of one of the Riviera sets in 1947 as listed in Harris [there were of course two sets]:

     

    Brake Third D131 [Hawksworth] - 838

    Third C82 [Hawksworth] - 792

    Third C73 [Collett] - 1490

    Composite E158 [Collett] - 7327

    Composite E155 [Collett] - 6136

    Dining car H26 [Collett 70 ft] - 9571

    First A22 [Collett] - 8100

    Third C82 [Hawksworth] - 800

    Brake Third D131 [Hawksworth] 837

     

    -and the Plymouth portion:

     

    Third C82 [Hawksworth] - 803

    First A20 [Collett] - 8044

    Brake Third D131 [Hawksworth] - 844

     

    One might have thought that nothing but the latest stock was good enough for the Riviera and through most of history this was indeed the case.  Before the advent of the BR Mk 1 in the 1950s there was a time when at least one Riviera set was all Hawksworth bar the diner, because there were no Hawksworth diners!  No BCKs though, as Adrian said.

     

    Chris 


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