Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Location
    Bedford, England.
  • Interests
    Railways, Music ( guitars mainly), photography, reading and football - watching not playing live much nowadays.

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Chrislock's Achievements



  1. Ah yes I see it now it is clear one of the photos and I wondered why the Lenz would have a brown wire when none of my CT decoders do! Many thanks for spotting it because I really missed it somehow, and I do not want to risk damaging the Terrier motor - which has happened to some chap in another thread. Topic duly closed. Thanks again.
  2. I am bumping this from another section of the DCC area as I haven't had a reply and am desperate for someone to advise me. Please follow this link: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/499-dcc-fitting-guides-requests/page-5 Many thanks Chris
  3. I am planning a new N gauge mini layout at the moment using tank engines( M7 and Terrier) and DCC. I have just received some points from Hattons. I decided to go for electrofrog code 55, but intend to turn at least 2 of them into effectively insulfrog, by removing the connecting wire underneath and cutting through the V as close to the point as I can get away with using my dremel cutter. I will also solder 2 new wires underneath, to connect switchblades to relevant running rails to improve conductivity. This should mean a dead spot of no more than 10mm as the loco rolls over the vee - or only one pair of wheels out at a time, which I hope will not affect running/ DCC operation. The advantage is I get to have metal rails throughout the point from a cosmetic point of view, and lose a lot of complicated wiring and avoid having to buy any more expensive point motors. If it doesn't work in practice I'll have to consider, bit that is the plan right now.
  4. Greetings. I am about to tackle the DCCing of a Dapol N gauge Terrier. I have found a clear set of pictorial instructions on the pdf ( link below), but one thing puzzles me: Because of the 9v motor, it is wise to retain the small resistor board. In the instructions, the guy connects the orange wire to this, which he then sticks to the decoder chip with tape. He then solders red and black to pickups as normal, but with brown and grey to the motor. Surely the resistor board needs an output to the motor, otherwise it is not in series? http://www.ness-st.co.uk/images/Dapol/terrier-dcc-instructions.pdf Any knowledge gratefully received! Cheers Chris
  5. Hi Argos. Neat work. How do you intend controlling your points?
  6. Hi. I have scratchbuilt a Wengenalpbahn He2/2. Does anyone know a good Halford aerosol match for WAB green Long shot I know as WAB not often modelled. Cheers Chris
  7. As the man says, diversionary and no more! This was built primarily to prove to Paul that he could have a Swiss mountain railway without spending 2 grand on a hrf model... To be honest it could do with more detail- pipes, plough etc and if I was doing this again I would leave a door open and stand a driver in it. The pantograph is a nice piece of engineering though, especially for 7 quid.
  8. Greetings. Since a memorable holiday in Switzerland a few years ago I have been intrigued by the narrow gauge railways of the WAB and SPB. Alas the available RTR such as hrf are astronomically priced, though superb model. I have been discussing various possibilities with a friend Paul, who is a big fan of the WAB in particular and one way of creating a rack system for a reasonable figure is to adapt the Fleishmann N gauge system to HOe. The subject of how to recreate a little He2/2 has been a frequent topic between us. And so I decided to try scratchbuilding a body from plasticard. The plan was that the body would slip over the fleischmann rack loco, the compromise being that it is a 3/3 not a2/2! However once the skirts and bits were added we thoight it would be hardly noticeable. Here is my first attempt: Regards Chris
  9. I'm not aware of any photos, but I will be following up the MRS route anyway. Thanks for the link to the WS books. I suspect that after the decline of these, it would be more likely that the guard carried the odd parcel in brake van! It seems, after all,that he was held personally responsible for them!
  10. Greetings. I am currently assembling a few MR/LMS wagons and vans . In a copy of MRS journal ( 47-48) I came across reference to tariff vans ( which were called station vans on the GW I believe). A quick search of Google reveals nothing. Their purpose was to convey smaller packages which did not warrant a whole van or wagon load, but still had to be conveyed under the common carrier rule. The MR built 60 brake vans (D382A) in the 1890s for this purpose ( one wonders if that might explain the photos of Midland goods trains with a brake at the front end?); but clearly this would not have been adequate in number, and so ordinary vans ( and wagons) were also likely assigned for this purpose. They were loaded by the goods staff in station order, and the guard needed a receipt for each parcel conveyed in this way. As they were unloaded and reloaded at various stations en route ( and even different companies) , the conveyance was often slow and took several days for goods sent in this way to arrive. Anyway, two questions for anyone who can help: 1. Would an ordinary box van have been used,or would it have to be ventilated ( as it might be carrying anything from chickens to foodstuff to machinery? 2. I assume it would it have been chalked "tariff" on the outside; or marked in some other way; and placed in a certain position in the train? I would like to designate one of my vans for this purpose to add interest to my stock, so would be grateful for any extra information. Regards, Chris
  11. Yes that is some doing to set up an exhibition like that. I hope it is very successful for you.
  12. Stunning Mikkel. Welcome back!
  13. Well I'm in the process of putting together a collection of Midland/LMS kits which have been bought from the Bay of E or which are currently available. The results are here: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/877-chrislocks-4mm-blog/ and you will see that I have little previous regarding these kits, but I do have a few years of scratchbuilding 2mm locomotives and soldering kits from the 2FS association. Indeed, I am deliberately operating on a low budget for this project, so have taken up the lining brush etc to minimise costs. The results would not please the perfectionist perhaps, but that is not the point. To me this offers a quick way into a 4mm Midland layout , which otherwise might take so long it would never materialise. The speed and ease of putting these Ratio kits together is astonishing. The 2-4-0, although not the smoothest runner, is by no means the dog some folk claimed, and I'm sure I can get this running better with a little work. What a shame that such complete quality plastic kits are no longer freely available, because I can see that way in as tempting more people into modelling.
  14. The idea of a traverser instead of a crossover points is interesting - but are you sure you can't fit a couple of points in and still have room for at least a couple of coaches in the loop? It would look so much better imo, and you could lose the RH bridge, or at least move it back a tad if you want the illusion of the line continuing. Are those catch points too close to the main lines? Any rolling stock becoming derailed that close would still foul the running lines methinks. I like the sweep of the curve, that will look so much better tham those straight branchline layouts you see about. I would second the comment about C+L - I've built a number in 4mm and its pretty straight forward with minimum tools. I built one fromthe ( expensive) full kit; one just using the Vee crossing; and four by building them up myself on Templot templates, stuck to a sheet of glass. All seem to work as well with test wagon.
  15. Just added a new photo to above, as didn't warrant a new thread... I am liking the 3 link/ screwlink couplings, and have just made a basic shunting hook to facilitate coupling and uncoupling. I have also been reading an rmweb article about adapting the Ratio Midland signal box kit with etched window frames and Smiths etched levers. I have duly ordered all three items. My mind is beginning to turn to the sort of layout which would suit this stock. I am looking at examples of urban and rural settings, and to be honest I like both, unfortunately I will be looking at a micro-layout so the option of having both is not a realistic option. I am toying with the idea of a part-layout in the mode of Mikel's The Bay v a shunting plank style of layout. Plenty of time to decide, as I first assemble the rolling stock and some typical structural elements.
  • Create New...