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Isambarduk

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  • Website URL
    http://www.davidlosmith.co.uk/railwayengineeringmodels.htm

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  • Location
    Remote dwelling in Mid Wales
  • Interests
    7mm (mainly loco building, GWR & LMS and constituents) Horses, old tractors, clocks

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  1. Ah, I didn't know that, Martin; I continue to learn something new every day! Yes, I used the terms as they appear in the G0G Standards. David
  2. Just so. Additionally, running and looks may be greatly improved at crossings by adopting 0-MF (0-Medium Fine) or 0-SF (0-Super Fine) in which the track gauge is reduced from the 32 mm gauge of 0-Fine to 31.5 mm and 31.25mm, respectively; the rolling stock wheels are unaltered (they may be to 0-Fine or S7 profile). All these standards are all set out in the G0G Standards, which are freely available to all. David
  3. I have now painted the frames, replaced the body and reunited the loco with its tender. As I said, there was nothing noteworthy about the build but, on my webpage about British Legion, there is some detail in captioned pictures that includes some of the additions and mods. For example, here is one of my scratch-built Davies & Metcalfe exhaust steam injectors on the fireman's side: the slightly modified bogie: and the cylinder assembly: David
  4. I take your point but the kind of task that you've just tackled is what I enjoy. Great job, BTW! David
  5. They look like aluminium wheels by Alec Jackson. It was very early impecunious days for me so I rebushed mine to fit on 1/8" axles and I machined up some steel tyres but they still look quite ropey. David
  6. Now I was going to mention that, George, but I didn't wish to sound critical. I use old transformer wire that is insulated with shelac/varnish; it is very thin, easy to work with and rather unobtrusive. In fact it, need be no thicker than the wire in the motor armature windings. I use 24swg (0.02" 0.56 mm in diameter) but it's not critical. David
  7. Amanda, Hi, I know this will not help you but, just for interest, this is how I recently made switch rails for 'dibateg' when he was short of them in building his Derby Line - Basford North: Milling Switch Rails David
  8. That's how Sunset Models must have painted them and David Studley (expert painter of locos LNER) did not alter them ... so that's the way they'll stay. But thanks for your comments, anyway. David
  9. Hmm. Well I hope it is better than mine was when I acquired it. On my webpage about Royal Lancer, I wrote: "Recognising that I would never have time to build all the locomotives and rolling stock that I would like and that I did not know so much about the LNER, I decided to order a ready-to-run A1 from Sunset Models when they were announced in 2005. My model was eventually delivered late in 2007 but I was somewhat disappointed to discover that it was a very poor runner with an intermittent short and that it had a number of components that were damaged or that had broken free in transit. Scott Mann at Sunset Models is a friendly chap and he did try to offer advice when I saw him at shows but he was unable to help in practice. Peter Dawson of Kemilway, the UK importer, did not wish to know so, in the end, it was down to me to sort out the problems. None of them was difficult to correct but I found it a bit hair-raising working on a fully painted model to which David Studley had superbly added the numbers and corrected the lining. There was also a problem with the on-board Quantum QSI electronic control and sound system, which periodically shorted out bringing the train to a sudden and complete stand whilst the acceleration function restarted and the train slowly moved off once more. I disconnected the motor from the control system, to revert to traditional DC control, and the loco actually performs far better without the control system, so I have left it this way. I did find the source of the intermittent short but I decided not to restore the sound." Although I could fill in a bit more here, I thought it prudent not to write too much on my website! David
  10. Oh so true! As I'm passed state pension age, I now know not very much - far less than when I was younger That's a good point, Ian; over the years, I have developed slightly asbestos fingers, but not intentionally. No, with complex fabrications, such as the D&M exhaust steam injector, I machine up all the parts so that most are a good press fit or they are pinned in place, again with a good press fit, before I apply the soldering iron. Additionally, I may use an RSU that allows the probe to hold a part in place whilst the heat is applied. Live steam injector and vacuum moisture trap on a Black Five (left) D&M exhaust steam injector on a Jubilee (right) Additional fabrications for later use (front). One set was used on British Legion The exhaust steam injector on the fireman's side of the Jubilee Anything else that you'd like me to expand upon? David
  11. Thank you, Ian; I feel rather flattered! I said there was nothing particularly noteworthy about the buiid in that it all seemed conventional for me, but I am more than happy to give a more detailed description and to take some more photos, if you would just give me a hint at what "warrants closer inspection and description! " In the meantime, here are three more images that I took before I stripped it down for painting and lining. On the reworked tender, I described in some detail 'one I made earlier' when I completely reworked a Finescale Brass 8F, I reworked a second one for my Black Five and also further one for a future loco, so I've quite got the hang of it now. David
  12. Back in April, I completed the building of my Royal Scot, British Legion, which I built from a David Andrews kit; I haven't written it up here because there's nothing noteworthy about the build, although I did make make some mods and I scratch-built a few extras. After a few weeks, I summoned up the energy to dismantle the body to paint and line it. Previously, I would have dismantled the whole model (and I did once dismantle, paint and line a Black Five and a Jubilee at the same time) but that seemed a bit overwhelming this time. I made a number of small items ,such as the live and the exhaust steam injectors, and I machined up some better looking safety valves, smokebox dart/handles and inside cylinder cover. Scratch-built Davies & Metcalfe exhaust steam injector (this one is actually fitted to my 8F, but I made several at the same time) In place, again, this is actually on my 8F but it's the same arrangement on British Legion As I have mentioned before, I choose to build my models in many subassemblies that I can screw, or pin and glue, together after I have completed the paintng and lining (below). Smokebox, boiler, firebox and cab as separate assemblies I completed the reassembly of the body yesterday and placed it on the frames just to see the general idea. The tender is a heavily reworked RTR model from Finescale Brass. I have since dismantled the frames to make a start on the painting, which should be a doddle compared to the loco body and tender, so it should not take long. David
  13. I agree entirely with Simon, I would not worry at all about mixing loco and tender kits; I've often done it, you just need to be consistent in their building and build to your own standard. Even today, the Saint kit by Slater's would be considered pretty good. Yes, it is etched brass with cast whitemetal and brass fittings. Slater's wheels are included in the loco+tender kit so I expect that they would be in the tender only kit. The corner of the tender flairs are little brass cast inserts (I seem to remember - it was 1990!) and they were very easy to work with. I made a bit of meal in building my Saint David (but then I always seem to be able do this) and it took me 657 hours over eighteen months. Turned out all right, I think, and it still looks acceptabe to me. David
  14. Well, I cannot compete with that lot but I do manage to keep my milling cutters under control: David
  15. Excellent news! Thank you for sharing it with us. I hope you have a similar success with your second loco. David
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