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garethashenden

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  1. You really don’t waste any time do you? Probably would have taken me 6 months at least to get here.
  2. The iron itself will probably work, but probably more important are the flux and solder. Don’t use lead free solder. It’s technically healthier, but does not stick nearly as well as leaded solder. I’d avoid rosin/flux core solder as well. Get some liquid flux, Carr’s yellow or green are popular, dilute phosphoric acid works well too and is cheaper. Use a small paintbrush to apply it. When you’re done soldering for the session, wash the parts. Soap and water with an old toothbrush. Otherwise the flux will cause corrosion.
  3. Still picking away at this. The smokebox door went pretty well. The chimney, not so much. The first one was good, but I forgot to allow material for the bottom flare. The second one was much better, but the top has an incorrect dimension. The inner lip is 0.5mm too small, and I forgot the taper, so it’s a bit too stout looking. The flare is too thick, but obviously that can be fixed. Think I’ll just make a third.
  4. I put together the underframe for my LSWR van, 10’6” RCH shop number 2-239. I seem to have accidentally bought the whole stock as they’re now TOS, sorry about that. Had to make a change to the printed file, I forgot that the underframe would need to sit inside the body slightly. I fixed that and printed another, unfortunately it didn’t quite print properly. About a third of it didn’t attach to the build plate, so it’s got a curve at the bottom. Only really noticeable when fitted with the underframe. Shall try again. I may try drawing up some LSWR axleboxes at some point.
  5. Dan, It needs a few more seconds than the green, the advantage of the thinness is you can have very small holes and otherwise sharper detail than any of the other anycubic resins.
  6. The Anycubic Black is a bit thinner than the grey, I’ve had good luck with it.
  7. Take two. I printed three more vans, one tipped at 15 degrees in two axes, one tipped at 29.5 degrees in one axis, and one tipped at 29.5 degrees in two axes. As expected, the last one was the best result. I had another look at the first one I printed, at 0 degrees. It’s arguably the best so far actuallu. The roof has accidental ribs, but the sides and ends are better.
  8. Drills, especially small ones, are something that’s definitely worth paying a bit more for. Find an industrial supplier if possible that sells to the general public.
  9. Yup, they sure do! This print was by far the best of the three. I’m going to adjust a few things, and see how primer helps/hurts.
  10. I tried three different printing angles; 0, 7.5, and 15 degrees. The 15 degrees worked the best, so I’ll use that in future. I’ve ordered some underframes from Shop 2, when they get here I’ll build one up see if any adjustments are needed.
  11. Just knocked up a LSWR van, will try printing it soon.
  12. Bit more progress, little bit every day. I tried to make sandboxes, and I’m not too happy with them, so I’ll try again. The boiler and smokebox have been made, one from 9mm tube, the other from 0.005” brass. The reverse curve want nearly as hard to form as I imagined it would be. This has now been attached to the footplate and it’s starting to look like a Coal Tank! The cab sides have suffered a bit and need reenforcing. I’d also like some advice on how to turn the smokebox door. What do I start with and how do I hold it?
  13. Another question is is it a single worm/wheel or is there a reduction as well? If there is, did that runs smoothly before the worm was in place?
  14. Fantastic! I was just looking at the 15” etch I have and wondering about it. To extend the frames, would it be a good idea to just start over, maybe with the etched ones as an overlay on top of a new piece that could include a bearing for the layshaft? Add a bit more rigidity too.
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