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About garethashenden

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  1. I think that would be a better solution. Iain Rice is a great writer, but I often get the impression he suggests things he hasn’t always tried before. Or hasn’t tried it over a long time/big project.
  2. Whichever model you start with, make sure it’s a single chimney. IE not Mallard.
  3. Are you sure about using the camping mat? I think it was more trouble than it was worth on Empire Mills. All the wiring and point controls would be easier on a fixed sub-base and I don’t think it would be much louder either. Especially since all the engines have sound.
  4. The Armstrong 4-4-0 is on my to-do list, I think they’re very nice for GWR engines, it don’t hold your breath. I need to finish some projects first. But as with everything else, get me a good drawing first...
  5. Back to the North London! I’ve had trouble making the short section of exposed boiler on the Goods Tank, it’s either the right length or the right diameter, and never round enough, so I thought I’d try printing it. The design is quite straight forward and it’s far more repeatable than my attempts to roll metal. The only thing I’m not satisfied with is the chimney. The flare to the sides of the smokebox isn’t big enough and it’s not as well defined as I’d like. I’ll try to fix it, but I may end up using the cast kit chimney.
  6. I think I need to use thicker supports too. I usually set the height to be 10mm, but once it adds the supports it changes to something like 1mm. More thicker supports should fix it, I just need to do it...
  7. I made this bell tower for a factory complex I’m working on. I also made a boiler house for the other end. Actually, the main reason I bought the printer was to help make brick arches, I’m finding all sorts of other uses for it as well. There is an issue with th bottom of the wall curving up, I probably need to revisit exactly where the supports are, and my painting leaves something to be desired, but otherwise I’m pleased with how it’s come out.
  8. Looks good! There aren’t enough 3rd rail layouts.
  9. Why bother with lead free solder at all? It’s fine if you’re a robot building circuit boards, but for the type of soldering that most modellers do leaded solder will be far easier. Just don’t eat it and wash your hands afterwards. There’s probably lead in any white metal castings anyway.
  10. How did you do the glazing? I have a 2Bil in the to-build pile but haven’t given much thought to the glazing yet.
  11. Probably, how are you modelling the cobblestones? Are you turning corners or just making a larger area than the original sheet?
  12. GAfter packing up the Buffalo for Thanksgiving, I went back to the B&M. First I installed an ESU Loksound decoder in the GP18 I had finished over the summer. This is the “Loksound Select Direct Micro” designed specifically for N scale diesels. I used a 8x12mm speaker in a custom built enclosure, mounted in the very back, and with two tiny LED for the headlights. It sounds really good and was pretty easy to do. I’ll be doing this to the rest of my engines at some point. Last January I started building a mill complex diorma thingy. It’s 24”x10”. I handaid the small amount of track, a through line and a siding/spur. It’s mostly wooden ties, with a few PCB ones to hold things in place and code 40 rail. The buildings are two kits and have mostly been built as intended, aside from the two walls where they meet. It took me a while to figure out what to do with that chimney. Sometimes chimneys at free standing, but often they aren’t, so I needed some sort of boilerhouse. I tried to make one out of brick sheet, but I can’t make brick arches and I really like brick arches. So I bought a 3D printer. I had been seeing a bunch of people having success with very fine detail from the Anycubic Photon printer, so that’s what I bought. It was definitely a good decision. I dusted off my CAD skills, and made some walls. After a few tweaks, I had a structure I was happy with. I tried to make something that showed some history, so there are windows on one wall, but they’ve been filled in with concrete blocks on the other side. The paint still needs some work, but that goes for the whole building. The other thing I’ve printed for this building is the top of bell tower. I modelled this after a one of the mill buildings in Lowell MA. Prototype: Model:
  13. Wow has it really been five months? Eek! Here’s a round up of what I’ve been doing. I was asked to build a broad gauge GWR Buffalo for Duncan’s cameo layout. Fairly simple in principle, start with the Gibson kit, make a new footplate and valance, add some long axles, then finish the kit. But I complicated things a bit by adding working inside motion. Everything was going along until late November when the table was needed for company, so everything got cleaned up and but in its box, where it still is. Must get back to it soon. Here are some pictures. First is the new footplate with the valances and splashers. Then on top of the chassis. I used the P4 spacers for the chassis to give as much room as possible for the inside motion. I used a Martin Finney/Brassmasters inside motion kit intended for a Dean Goods. The dimensions were very similar and it’s the right age and railway, so it’s close enough. I silver soldered the cranks to the axle, it was pretty straight forward once I had everything ready. Fitting the motion bracket was by far the hardest part. It needs to be far enough away from the middle axle that the pistons can go all the way forward, but not so far away that they fall out of the crossslides at the opposite end of the rotation. It also needs to be above the front axle ( while still allowing the front axle to be at the right height), and clear of the footplate. Oh, and square to the frames. I think I fitted it about ten times before I was satisfied. The angle is a little steep, but everything else was worse. The axle after soldering but before cleanup. I need to take a picture of the chassis with the motion bracket in its final position. I decided that the only part of bodywork that would actually be soldered to the footplate will be th cab. Everything else will be held by screws to help paint-ability and access for maintenance etc. I tried to use the kit’s cab, but in cuttting the sides to fit the wheel arches I made a bit of a hash of it and had to start over from brass sheet. Turned out ok in the end though. I’ve attached to pegs to the front of the cab, these locate the bottom corners of the tank in both vertical and horizontal directions. Here is the boiler/saddle tank set in place. It hasn’t been fixed together, just posed for the photo. I’ve also assumbled the bunker, but not thought to photograph it either. I’ve tried about five different gearboxes in this engine, some clearly didn’t work and others only stopped working after various components were added. For a long time I planned to mount the motor vertically in the firebox. The motor fit height wise, and it would be fine in a pannier tank, but the curve of the saddle tank got in the way. Finally I settled on a High Level gearbox and ridiculously large Mishima motor that I “borrowed” from a kit in my stash. There will just be space for the decoder mounted vertically behind the gearbox and the speaker in the smokebox. Oh, there’s the previously unphotographed bunker. I knew it existed.
  14. Not commercially that I’m aware of. There are etched hooks availalbe, but not links. Should be easy enough to make them out of wire, although they will be very difficult to couple up.
  15. I included some dimensions and pictures, you probably will need to do the same.
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