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garethashenden

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About garethashenden

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  1. Its a great description of why standardization and regulation are a good thing.
  2. Instead of completing the building, would it be better/possible to remove the wall and model the interior? Since the layout slices through the building it could be a cool effect to see inside in that way. Then maybe a piece of plexiglas for safety.
  3. What do you use to trim the steps that doesn't break them off in the process?
  4. Close, but for old decals the product that's really called for is Liquid Decal Film. Brush it on, let it dry, use as a waterslide transfer. Be careful with the brushing on though, it can add thickness quickly. https://www.amazon.co.uk/MicroScale-Industries-Liquid-Decal-Film/dp/B06XNZ8Y3H/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=liquid+decal+film&qid=1596688229&sr=8-1
  5. What is your source for transfers?
  6. I think this thread should be renamed to "2ml Distillery: Dail-uaine" Excellent work as always Justin!
  7. To further complicate things, even modern cameras aren't free from colour distortion. All digital cameras do some software interpretation. They have to, that's how they work, but some do more than others. Stand alone cameras are pretty reliable, but a lot of smartphones are programmed to produce pictures that look good, rather than are 100% accurate. iPhones and Google Pixels do the least, with some of the cheaper android phones doing the most.
  8. Be careful of matching colours to old photos, particularly ones that have been reproduced in books. Kodachrome loves red, it always comes out very vibrant. So if the original image was taken on Kodachrome slides it will look brighter than it was. Similarly book printing is usually done by layering colours, each layer can be adjusted by the printer, often to produce an attractive image, rather than an accurate one. Finally, there probably wasn't one colour used throughout the NCB system. I suspect that the various collieries would paint the wagons themselves with locally sourced paint. Even if it was all called "Oxide Red" or whatever there would be variations. If I were you I would pick a red oxide paint, paint everything with it, then weather individual wagons to add variation to the colour. I'd be inclined to start with Halford's red primer. spray it lightly to not obscure the detail, then weather. Or use some other red oxide paint.
  9. I’m not too familiar with the prototype, but is the smokebox door supposed to be that low? It doesn’t look centred at all...
  10. Which brake vans? Without know which specific class you’re trying to model I can’t offer much advice I’m afraid.
  11. Not much recently. There’s a failed build of a LSWR van in the printer that I haven’t felt like dealing with, the printer needs some maintenance I think. Just sound equipped an N scale diesel, needs final weathering and then that three year project will be done. Currently trying to see why the gearbox on your Buffalo doesn’t want to move, one of the shafts seems to have rusted and is not letting the gear turn, so that will come apart and get cleaned up, possibly replaced with something less prone to corrosion. Then a new chassis, rods, and crank axle I think. But mostly I’ve been working on the XJ-S, it’s taking longer than anticipated...
  12. I’d missed this thread Duncan, great work!
  13. When I click a link while using my iPad (which is the main way I look at RMWeb) I have to tap the link twice. The link will be highlighted when I tap it the first time, but it won’t open. Sometimes it will provide a summary, as if I were hovering a mouse over the link, but that’s not what I want. Every other website works fine, so I don’t think it’s me. Just to be super annoying, about 5% of the time it works as it should with a single tap opening the link. Any chance of fixing this? Cheers, Gareth
  14. You really don’t waste any time do you? Probably would have taken me 6 months at least to get here.
  15. The iron itself will probably work, but probably more important are the flux and solder. Don’t use lead free solder. It’s technically healthier, but does not stick nearly as well as leaded solder. I’d avoid rosin/flux core solder as well. Get some liquid flux, Carr’s yellow or green are popular, dilute phosphoric acid works well too and is cheaper. Use a small paintbrush to apply it. When you’re done soldering for the session, wash the parts. Soap and water with an old toothbrush. Otherwise the flux will cause corrosion.
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