garethashenden

Yes, I’ve had some axleboxes from LRM on their own. I think they were prepackaged at an exhibition actually. A dozen in a bag if I remember correctly, but that was probably a decade ago.

It also depends on what you’re using for ballast. If it’s real stone it won’t move as much as the Woodland Scenic walnut shells.

Sprat & Winkle and Alex Jackson are two more types of popular autocouplings. The S&W are a hook and loop, similar to D&G but maybe less obtrusive. AJs are the least obtrusive, but the most delicate and require a fair degree of precision when making and fitting. Kadees are also a popular choice.

The advantage of all the reduction one gets with a High Level gearbox is that the motor can turn at a speed that is sustainable while the locomotive just creeps along. No flywheel needed.

What is the axle length? I suspect there are probably differences between the plastic and metal axles, as well as the OO wagons that have been reduced to N. That's the first thing I would check. If the metal axles are slightly longer they will have much more resistance.

This is a Peter K kit for a North London class 109 4-4-0T. It has compensation beams fitted with top hat bushings and they do work.

In addition to these points, I suspect one railway achieved better utilization of wagons than eight did.

Are you going to have more than one person running trains at a time? From the extensive trackplan I would imagine yes. If so, make sure the isles are wide enough for two 1:1 scale people to pass each other.

I know the feeling, but its so funny to read this.

I'm sure @drduncan would produce his BG wagons and coaches in 3mm if you asked. Should be simple to scale it down!

Bestine is basically Heptane. You may be able to find that. Or Naphtha or Butane should work as well. Butane is normal lighter fluid. It really is needed on the wax supported models. With Shapeways that's the Ultra Fine Detail materials.

When you rub down the paint with the sandpaper, how do you work around the details?

Pivoting the rods on the crankpin is much easier and what I would recommend for the first time. Pivoting them on the prototype's joint is more accurate, but harder to set up and there's more risk on soldering everything solid. When you pivot them on the crankpin they can stat as two separate pieces. The wheelbase seems to be 7'3"+9'0", so Alan Gibson part 4M88 would be appropriate. You make no mention of scale and gauge, but the High Level parts suggest 4mm.

I would start with one of the Association's replacement chassis kits. Even if its not a prototype you're after, they're well designed and make a good introduction to split chassis construction.

I like to put a couple of loops in the pickups as shown here. It gives a bit of flex that allows the pickup to be sprung against the wheel without acting as a brake. I also think I'm using thinner wire than you are. This is 0.010" phosphor bronze. Just something to think about.