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brian777999

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  • Location
    Cairns, Queensland. Australia
  • Interests
    Model trains (and real ones) , learning the violin, learning Chinese.

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  1. It now runs smoothly once it gets going but getting it going is the hard part ; it needs a burst of electricity to overcome that initial starting resistance. I sometimes have this problem with new locos too. I am not sure what else can be done but suggestions are welcome.
  2. Yes, there was a lot of oil inside the motor. No cracked gears so, assuming it is the brushes, then nothing can be done. I might try putting some white grease on the gears and see if that helps at all.
  3. I have an old split chassis Bachmann class 04 diesel shunter which used to be a very smooth runner but started to run erratically and then stopped all together. I stripped it down and found that there was a lot of oil/lubricant all over the internal mechanisms including the motor. After cleaning off all the oil, I have got it running again but it is very rough and occasionally a puff of smoke appears from the motor. Does this mean the motor is burnt out ?
  4. Perhaps somebody could manufacture a small black box ''ozone generator" to be placed under our layouts ? I think it would more satisfying than DCC sound.
  5. How long will the Peco factory stay closed ? Have they given any indication ?
  6. I quite agree. The mortar gaps on this model are probably accurate but on some other brick sheets they are oversized and much deeper than they should be.
  7. I don't think that would work for the same reason : the mortar gaps are too shallow to dry brush the bricks. If anybody has done this successfully on the Dapol engine shed then I would love to see some photos.
  8. I tried the light grey mortar wash last night with very a thin turps based paint but it did not turn out well. As I suspected, the mortar ''cracks'' between the bricks are not really deep enough on this model. It was a bit of a curate's egg but more parts were bad than good so I have re-sprayed the whole thing and I will have to paint the window frames and doors again. Not happy ! Perhaps others have had better luck with a water based paint for the mortar? I think that this effect would work well when the spaces between the bricks are a bit oversized. It would be good in O gauge
  9. Update : basic painting is complete. Next steps are a coat of clear, mortar wash then weathering. I will install lighting at some point after the mortar wash is done. I am still thinking about how many LED's and where they should go. Suggestions are welcome. Note : for anybody building this kit, it would be much easier to paint doors and window frames before gluing into position.
  10. Have you tried Loctite ? That is what I would be using after thoroughly cleaning off all grease and oil.
  11. Thank you all for that information. Now I will have to find a suitable crane set up
  12. Why are there doors on the 2nd, 3rd and 4th levels of this factory kit ? https://www.hattons.co.uk/34885/metcalfe_po282_brick_built_warehouse_card_kit/stockdetail.aspx
  13. I have painted the brickwork and I am now letting it dry thoroughly before giving it a coat of clear Microgloss Matt. I will then attempt to give it a very thin wash of light grey enamel paint which will hopefully stay between the bricks simulating the mortar. Not having done this before, I am not very confident that it will work with this kit. On some kits the bricks are very pronounced and the the joins between the bricks are very deep but on this kit the joins are very shallow so I am not sure if the end result will be very effective. Try it and see, I suppose !
  14. I had skipped from page 1 to page 5 only to find that we were now talking about bowel movements !
  15. I am just curious : In the UK, do you have to submit detailed construction plans all approved by a civil engineer before you can start work ? We had to do that in Cairns, Australia before building a cabin in the back yard.
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