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Captain Kernow

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Blog Comments posted by Captain Kernow

    Mikkel

    Posted

    40 minutes ago, Mikkel said:

    Fancy a P4 version? That would be the ultimate madness!

    If the loco concerned survived into the BR period and wore black livery, early crest and a smoke box number plate, I think I would definitely go for one, especially if a new RTR release that could be easily converted to P4, or perhaps a well-built and excellently-running kit that someone had advertised.

     

    I would love to do my own conversion, of course, but it would be so far down the queue of other projects, that I don't know when (if ever), if would be completed!

     

    • Like 4
    The Johnster

    Posted

    Mr Johnster, sir, before you file down the insides of the brass bearings, my advice would be to:

     

    i) turn the frames so that the outside is resting on the bench, put some flux right round between the brass bearing and the N/S frames and apply the iron, letting the solder flow right round the circumference of each bearing

     

    ii) when that is done, cut most of the protruding bearing off with a file-toothed piercing saw and then clean with with a file

     

    iii) gently reaming out any brass flash from the inner face of the bearings

     

    iv) after the above, take a drill bill larger than 1/8 of an inch, in your fingers only, and twirl around both sides of the cleaned up bearings. You only need to do this a little, but it should create a small channel on both sides of the bearing, to aid putting the axles in and then lubrication.

     

    Good luck!

     

    • Like 2
    • Informative/Useful 1
    MoonMonkey

    Posted · Edited by Captain Kernow

    On 25/08/2021 at 09:40, Dickon said:

    Edit: The minimum size was 300mm square.

    That sounds about right and although I've seen plenty of them in real life when at work, I don't think I've ever seen one more than about a foot square (so 300mm is about right).

     

    Your tiny arch seems to be something that was originally built for another purpose and was subsequently used for railway purposes when the yard etc. expanded.

     

    Your 'Engines must not pass this point' sign notwithstanding, you should still have a Limited Clearance sign in place on one of the vertical faces adjacent to the small arch.

     

    • Informative/Useful 1
    Ian J.

    Posted

    Given that the goods yard is probably only going to be shunted by Down trains (ie. where the loco will already be at the correct end and can shunt using the headshunt), you would probably need a ground or shunt signal under the stop signal outside the signalbox, to authorise the movement onto the Single Line and also an advanced starter to properly protect the Single Line, if this is a regular movement.

     

    Without the above measures, you would need to obtain a 'Line Clear' from the box in advance (in the Down direction) and exchange the appropriate bell codes, authorising you to occupy the Single Line for shunting purposes.

     

    Similarly, if an up goods train is to serve the yard and run round in the station, the above arrangements would also be used. In such circumstances, you would either have to have a similar arrangement in the Up direction, unless again, you obtain the appropriate authorisation in accordance with the Rules & Regulations from the Up direction box in advance, for the loco to occupy the Single Line for shunting purposes.

     

    The 'Rules & Regulations' option is probably ideal if (i) traffic levels are relatively light and (ii) you don't want to build any more signals than you absolutely have to!

     

    • Thanks 1
    Fen End Pit

    Posted

    Superb results indeed, well done!

     

    This new technology is incredible and old farts like me can only look on in amazement at what can be achieved.

     

    Your point about etching brass etc. back in the 1970s and comparing that to 3D printing today is a valid one, but on the other hand, we each of us grow up and form the basis of our modelling skills in a certain 'era'. In many terms, I think that this then defines our 'modelling comfort zone'.

     

    As such, I am comfortable to built an etched kit that someone else has produced although I know that I don't have the skills to master even the old-fashioned (pre-computer)  way of producing the master artwork (having seen a friend successfully master this back in the 1970s).

     

    I haven't yet built any kits where 3D printing is a major component, the opportunity or need hasn't yet arisen, but presumably superglue is indicated as the most suitable adhesive (5 minute epoxy is more in my comfort zone).

     

    As for mastering the software required for CAD or even things like Templot, my personal modelling time is relatively limited and coupled with a basic inability to readily grasp computer and software related matters, I know that I would begrudge the time needed to learn and achieve anything meaningful in these fields, so I have had to accept that I must leave this 'brave new world' to others and perhaps grovelling ask for any related assistance, as and when I might need it.

     

    Good luck with the project!

     

    ullypug

    Posted

    I like this very much, Andrew. Nice size of baseboard too!

     

    You are brave tackling the CSBs! Have you done any before? I just can't get my mind round the science behind them!

     

    And as for the impossibility of converting the Kernow/DJM model to EM or P4, well, that does seem to be the way some manufacturers are going, although the Hattons/DJM 14XX is do-able. John F (Re6/6) has been converting one of the Rapido 16XXs to P4 and although he would say it's been relatively straightforward, I still maintain that the design of the loco has made it far, far too complicated and awkward, whereas it's Bachmann contemporary - the 94XX, looks pretty straightforward to me.

     

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