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DLT last won the day on May 14 2011

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  1. Thanks Richard, yes that's very helpful., a lot of detail there. I look forward to seeing your completion of it! Many thanks, Dave.
  2. Starting with Phil "Wilton"'s photo of the etch: Some manipulation in Photoshop created a view of the motion plate: I will probably fabricate this with brass angle and add the existing bits rather that make a whole new one. I'm hoping to bring this model along to the RMweb day in Taunton next weekend, so I'd better get on with it... Cheers, Dave.
  3. Why have I only just found this thread???? Stunning stuff Mr.Tricky, Cheers, Dave.
  4. Charford, or The Charford Branch as it became, built by John Charman. It was this layout that featured the removeable buffer stop in the private siding that lead to a hidden continuous run Cheers, Dave
  5. Fascinating stuff Roger, thanks for sharing. Cheers, Dave.
  6. Of course, all the above means that I now have to start on the cylinders and motion. I think I've got enough material to work with now, thanks very much to Phil "Wilton" for supplying a photo of an untouched etch for this loco here: https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/120327-southern-railway-modelling-lbscsecr/&do=findComment&comment=3514791 The coupling rods in the kit are fishbellied, but the prototype has straight rods in all the photos I've seen, although in some views they could be VERY slightly fishbellied. I will use the supplied items, they need a bit of filing down. Cheers, Dave.
  7. I couldn't disagree more! I always had very good control from my old H&M Duette, driving my Hornby Dublo in the late 1960s. They were vastly superior to Hornby or Triang's own controllers. More recently, with the switches set to Full Wave and High Resistance it runs my Portescap RG4 powered locos beautifully. I have to add that I don't use it any more as I've gone over to small handheld controllers (mostly Gaugemaster) but still use the Duette as a power source. I do fully agree though, that nowadays Gaugemaster is the way to go for analog control. Cheers, Dave.
  8. After all that fiddling with the pickups, a quick polish of the wheel treads and backs was followed by this: And the the REAL moment of truth, testing with Jacks beautifully finished bodywork on top: Everything fitted perfectly! there is a very minor clearance issue with the coupling rods touching the footplate, but that's easily solved. Additionally the 1428 motor doesn't intrude into the cab as I feared it might. Cheers, Dave.
  9. Two bridging wires fitteds, linking the two pickup plates together. One is visible in this picture, also the plasticard washers under the fixing screw and nut. To hold the motor in position I've added another small frome spacer, on which is pressed a small blob of Blue-Tack that holds the motor down comfortably. Cheers, Dave.
  10. Thanks Chaz. Currently yes; Usually I cut away the copper where the screwhead/nut seats, but on this occasion I thought the area was too small to do that. So instead they will have an insulating washer under them. And the holes in the pcb are countersunk sufficiently for the screw portion not to touch the copper. Cheers, Dave.
  11. No problem with the brake gear, it was about thirty seconds with a soldering iron and a fingernail to remove it. the pickup plate would have been easier to fit if I had put the gearbox on the rear axle, but (a) the cast spring detail was in the way, and (b) when driving the middle axle there is far less chance of any binding in the coupling rods. The chassis was designed (as they all were in those days) to take a big open-frame motor sitting on the frames and driving Romford type worm & wheel gears on the middle axle. Cheers, Dave.
  12. Mark-two pickup plates fitted, longer to fill the available space, and for longer pickup wires. Actual wires curve back on themselves, dictated by the chassis design and the choice of gearbox on the central axle. Jumper-wires between the plates are now needed, plus wires from the end to the motor terminals, and we should be in business! Yes I know the fixing screws are bridging the insulating gap, but three will be a plasticard washer underneath. Cheers, Dave.
  13. Very sorry to see this go Bob, it's been a huge source of entertainment and inspiration. But nothing lasts forever, and the last thing you want is for it to become a millstone to drag you down. I look forward to seeing a new project appearing, and if you are staying with narrow gauge, I highly recommend 7mm scale! All the best, Dave.
  14. DLT

    Little Muddle

    Lovely set of photos Kevin. Cheers, Dave.
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