dmeaden

Looks proper busy your sidings - surely there must be more than one lazy joe?

His (AMarr) true colours and liberal bias broke the surface through gritted teeth around 7am when I saw him on the propaganda box. I had initially assumed Andy was staying up to deal with the refuelling of that large collection of grimy diesels stabled at Severn Mills :-)

Very impressed by your Denise build -I thought Brass kits were supposed to take years to finish?! Have you built many loco kits before? And all fitted with lights and sound and weathered (it always seems a shame but it’s got to be done!) - lovely job :-)

Many thanks Gerry -this is the main information I am sketchy on so my list of excuses is significantly reduced. It’ll be interesting to overlay my cad guesswork on your scanner drawing and see how close they are! Will let you know ;-/ Kind Regards DM

Hi Jerry I have just re-visited your Bath Green Park thread and see that you are also modelling the Midland (Top) Shed. What a marvellous job you have done with this in 2mm scale. It will look quite impressive with the 7F's you are building. The window details look amazing and must have taken a lot of patience to put together. What did you use for the wall textures? Having seen the superb detail you have included in this model, I wondered if you might be prepared to share some of your valuable research on this shed area? I am current building an "O" Gauge impression of Bath Green park Shed having recently moved from N and 2mm (takes cover!) and would be grateful if you might be prepared to share some of the drawings or pictures used to construct and detail the shed. To show that I am not just cribbing the details you have clearly carefully investigated I enclose a copy of one of my own cad drawings of the shed front elevation and a picture of the mock-up in place. Any assistance would be much appreciated. Best Regards DM Front Elevation 30deg.pdf

Hi Jintyman Being the Jinty - man I am assuming you are knowledgeable on the said 3F’s and might be able to recommend a good sound file for my o- gauge jinty? Your observations and experience would be appreciated and apologies if I’ve missed it in the previous 41pages of posts! Kind Regards DM

Finally good news and to complete the saga; the fan control board is re-instated and using the variable resistor on the board can be turned right down and gives smooth stable and quiet running! its only a little thing but it works! Give it a go.... Best regards DM

Your videos always sound good Andy. I only normally listen on my phone and the speaker is not really a descent reflection of the real life sound ( normally too tinny). i did make some progress with the fan and found that you can omit the PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) that controls the brightness of the lights with CV114 settings which cover aux 1to 4 ( 7 to 12 are covered by CV152). the only problem is the fan gets full load and whizzes around like crazy! Time to put the original Heljan fan controller board back me thinks! will try later and hope this works.... Best Regards DM

Interesting to hear your Heljan experiences Jintyman, thanks and I have found your 7mm thread which has also been helpful. I think the output to the aux is pulsed by the decoder to lower brightness of LED’s which seems to cause the fan motor to be noisy or just hum when the setting is too low. I’m not sure a servo output will work but I will let you know if I get any positive results.... As for speakers I have a large range and tried them all in different settings and locations with varying success. I will look at a tank install at some point and assume you drill out the metal chassis to get adequate routing for the bass reflex tube. As I’m new to O Gauge I’m taking it one step at a time! Sorting out the lights has been fun but now I’ve made an LED tester it is easier to figure out Heljans wiring! Best Regards DM

Re: the rats - maybe the holes in the bottom of the tanks for the sound are a clue...!

Hi Andy I decided to replace the large speaker facing up with a smaller bass reflex facing down. Sounds better now and the bass chatter of the Diesel engine is much more discernible. Not sure I need to drill out the tanks as the sound is quite well balanced but will run it for a week or so and decide ( after Reading trade show next weekend) As a matter of interest I wired the roof fan to Aux4. Works ok but a bit noisy. Tuning down the brightness of the lighting with CV60 causes the fan to hum and below a setting of 50 it doesn’t start. Did you connect up your roof fan. Wondering if it will work better on one of the servo motor connections? (Have the same problem with the Class 20) Regards DM

Possibly Greenwood Model Raolwsy Products who are based in Swanage?They do do nice work and provide a good service: https://greenwoodmodelrailwayproducts.co.uk/ Regards DM

Thanks Andy i have my (very large) speaker pointing up and it provides plenty of noise and good whistling but the bass is a little over- powered by the higher pitched sound using the body shell as an “amplifier”. I will create a bespoke box around it which might help? Alternatively I can substitute a reduced speaker size like yours that fits in the recess below the decoder and fire it out the base. will be interested to see if the sound is any better with the tanks off.... will work on mine tomorrow and report findings.... DM

Thanks Andy i have my (very large) speaker pointing up and it provides plenty of noise and good whistling but the bass is a little over- powered by the higher pitched sound using the body shell as an “amplifier”. I will create a bespoke box around it which might help? Alternatively I can substitute a reduced speaker size like yours that fits in the recess below the decoder and fire it out the base. will be interested to see if the sound is any better with the tanks off.... will work on mine tomorrow and report findings.... DM

Hi Andy A little while back you did a class 40 sound install and I wonder if you could provide a little insight on the speaker housing. I can see from the photo that the speaker appears to be facing down and I wondered if you had to create any holes in the fuel tank to facilitate the sound. On my 40 there is a formed grille in the metal chassis which seems just about adequate but wondered if you needed to do anymore holes to plastic tanks beneath. Thanks in anticipation, DM.