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Everything posted by col.stephens

  1. Thanks Keith, very kind of you. Terry
  2. Some recent developments on Farleigh. Fencing has been fixed along the rear of the yard and a gate has been installed. I decided to install the signal cables, represented by 0.25mm nylon thread, which is almost invisible to the naked eye. The excellent pulleys are 3D printed products available from here: https://3dprintingcorner.co.uk/ There are two signal cables, one leading to the starter signal and the other disappearing under the bridge to an imaginary home signal. The foot crossing had to be re-modelled to give clearance to the cables. Though
  3. The original print included the colour patches as Appendix 4. They were omitted in the later reprint. Terry
  4. According to the colour patches in my copy of HMRS Livery Register No.3, LSWR and Southern, the loco above is not painted in Urie LSWR Loco Green. The colour is too light.
  5. Hello Mike. Personally I would go with your suggestion. You will get much more railway around the walls of the room with the opportunity for something more prototypical. There are various track plans books available. Many of the plans by the late Cyril Freezer give ideas for the sort of space which you have. It might also be worth looking for books by Iain Rice as he has also produced lots of plans to suit your space. Terry
  6. A shot of the front of the signal box. awaiting point rodding, signal wires, etc. Terry
  7. Coal heaps. Take a small piece of mount board and cut to shape for the base. Glue some small balls of screwed up newspaper to the base. Cover in kitchen roll and soak with the 50/50 pva/water mix used for ballasting the track. Allow to dry and paint with black acrylic paint. When dry, coat with pva and sprinkle coal thereon. When dry, cut a hole in the base and remove some of the paper. Glue in a steel nut so that it is just below the tissue. If you are clever and forward thinking, you will cut the hole in the base at the beginning of the process. I am not clever or forward thinking!
  8. Thanks for the info David. I don't have that particular book but my club has an extensive library and we are being allowed back in soon. I have been experimenting with 'portable coal heaps', of which more soon. Regards, Terry
  9. Looking good Alex. I like the idea of completing each module and then extending, rather than trying to complete everything at the same time. Terry
  10. Hello Paul. Thank you for your kind comments. As I understand it, the telegraph wires could go over the bridge with the always possible danger of a high vehicle bringing them down. This happens occasionally on the country lane on which I live, when HGV drivers trust their satnavs, rather than their own eyes and common sense! In our case, the idiots usually bring down the power cables too. The alternative is for the wires to run from the pole to insulators fixed to the side of the arch. I think the latter solution would look better as with the former, the wires would stop dead at the back
  11. Good idea. Thanks. Terry
  12. Thank you for your kind comments. Helpful criticism always welcome. Originally, I was going to put them on the other side of the track. However, they looked rather uninteresting when viewed from the front of the layout. Artistic licence won the day, I'm afraid. Terry
  13. More detail slowly being added. This SR loading gauge is constructed from a Ratio kit which I picked up secondhand at a show some time ago. Best 50p's worth I have had in a long time! I have been intending to extend the small piece of scenery in the fiddle-yard which is supposed to give the impression, when looking under the bridge from the scenic section, that the scenery and track carry on into the distance. I thought that the lineside hut, originally placed where the signal box now resides, would enhance the view under the bridge. Well, I finally got around to the job and he
  14. Yes, if you don't mind paying £60 ($79) for it! Plus postage too I guess. Rather on the expensive side. The crane shown above should be a fairly straightforward scratchbuild in styrene. Terry
  15. The list in post 1 is not opening for me. Is there a problem or am I doing something wrong? Terry
  16. Hello Chris. Yes, I think if he reversed in with his tailgate adjacent to the left wall of the coal bins, it is manageable. However, one has to accept that there is an element of artistic licence involved. I didn't want all that lovely glistening coal to be facing the backscene. Similar problem with the front of the signal box facing the backscene. I couldn't squeeze it in on the other side of the track. Of course, now that every structure is glued down, I realise that possibly I could have sited the water tower on the opposite side of the track beneath the lighting pelmet, then put the
  17. I finally decided on the positioning of the coal bins and coal office. The bins are situated as per the original article in the Railway Modeller. I have moved the coal office forward adjacent to the track from its original position against the backscene. Models from Scalescenes. Coal from layers of black carbonaceous rock consisting of layers of partially decomposed vegetation deposited in the Carboniferous period! Oh yes, and hit hard with a hammer! Terry
  18. The different structures have been brought together to create this little scene... Terry
  19. Continuing the saga of Farleigh signal box. I observed this in a photo in the book previously mentioned, hiding under the stairs of a Southern signal box. Modelled in card with Scalescenes' clapboard paper. Measuring just 16mm x 16mm. Somewhere for the signalman to keep his coal. Just needs topping-up with coal and a handy shovel nearby. Terry
  20. I'm not sure if this building is often modelled, but I caught sight of it in the background of the photograph of Adversane Crossing signal box. My Lords, Ladies and Gentleman, I give you...the signalman's privy... As usual, made from mount board (1mm thick), postcard door and corners with a Peco track pin as a door knob. Scalescenes' papers for the clapboard and slate roof. Painted with thinned acrylics. Just some slight weathering required using watercolour paints. The base is a square measuring just 24mm. Terry
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