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  1. You Tube is your friend. There are a lot of these sorts of thing. Put in a search term and see what comes up. John
  2. Now that makes sense and is entirely in line with my own experience. For me, Hatton's is the best choice for general railway products. As long as you are buying things in regular sized parcels and less than 1kg, it will come in the mail. For irregular parcels (like boxes of track) and over 1kg, courier may be the shipping method and is more expensive. The good news is that such things are bought only rarely. John
  3. If these are GWR wagons, Slater's acquired the range some time ago. The kits they sell now include wheels, buffers and couplings. Some pics might be of use to help people advise you. Buffers, Slater's 71564 will serve but some wagons had different ones. In general, GWR wagons used 8 spoke 3' 1" https://slatersplastikard.com/linePage.php?suffix=JPG&code=7121 Best is to have some pictures to hand. Peco do GWR wagon kits: https://peco-uk.com/collections/rolling-stock/peco+narrow-gauge+7mm-o?page=1 Less bewildering choice for wheels. I'm not crazy about their buffer/coupling system. This thread may help: https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/49132-dc01-brakes-after-1948/ Lots of GWR wagon pics. This is my rendition of the Coopercraft 3 plank: I was able to modify the horrid plastic buffers in the kit into sprung ones with metal heads. I wouldn't recommend that. 3' 1" 8 spoked wheels. John
  4. Very nice to hear from you Mark. This van seems quite popular and has never been redone AFAIK. Some of the older models are really quite good above the solebars and really need some titivating underneath. I have tackled a lot of these, including the Hornby Palethorpes 6 wheelers. They scrub up well. Good luck with your mojo, hoping you can get back at it soon. John
  5. Good to know, I build a lot of Scalescenes in 7mm scale. Mine is an earlier version. John
  6. I have read that some folk use Sellotape which is quite thin. I don't see much wrong with what you've done and painting will tone the thickness down a tad. I wouldn't use self adhesive label to line a coach, much too thick. John
  7. Hmm, I think we are converging on agreement. Yes, well laid code 75 FB looks and works fine. My coupling choice for 00 was Kadee. I did dabble in EM for a time but never had success converting steam locos so gave up on it. Now I'm doing 0 gauge I can use 3 link et al and that makes me happy. Fine Scale 0 track gauge scales to 4'6" so equivalent to 4mm EM. Wouldn't it be great if 4mm defaulted to EM? John
  8. Comet coaches are good, however, I was talking about underframe parts that you can get separately. I remember having a load of these as I upgraded older coaches, like Airfix LMS non corridor. John
  9. I know Peco code 75 FB is wrong and there have have been numerous threads about it, mostly on sleeper spacing IIRC. The track at least does look British even if it is 1/87 scale. It has been the only game in town forever, it seems. I have used code 75 BH on C&L track bases on our branchline section of the club layout and that is really good. Turnouts are handmade. Most people I believe don't treat track as a model but take a lot of trouble with their rolling stock. I struggled with all the terrible compromises of 00 for 30 years or so (narrow gauge and dreadful couplings, etc). I went 0 gauge about 6 years ago and now I am a happy camper. Best modelling decision I ever made. John
  10. As I follow this thread, I see a fair few people recommending code 83 which bothers me. The thing is that code 83 is to North American practice and track uses spikes, not chairs. If we take the view that track is a model in itself then code 83 is quite wrong. I am curious to know if any one has built a UK themed layout using code 83. I've been to quite a lot of shows over the years. Most of the US/Cdn themed layouts I have seen used Atlas code 100 and Peco code 100 turnouts. I have seen just one layout that uses code 83 from Micro Engineering and that was superb. John
  11. I have done scratchbuilt underframes for several 6 wheeled vans. I used plastic card as it's easier to hack about than brass. Comet coach parts, available from Wizard are very useful. John
  12. Well, it looks to me that you've done the hard part. The rest should be straightforward. John
  13. That certainly looks good from where I'm sitting. Did you use Jenkinson methods from his book? I have tried to make plastic sides for 4mm coaches but could never get the windows right, although these had curved corners. John
  14. We are in the process of expanding our club layout. The big debate is between code 100, which the original layout has and code 75. In code 75 there is flat bottom and bullhead. Bull head seems a bit dearer, and Hatton's shows it to be in stock. Plus bullhead turnouts are very expensive (roughly twice) compared to FB. For me BH is the preference but availability and price may drive a decision for FB for the club. If it were me, I might go for BH since I accept that the purchase of track is a capital expense and one off. I can make turnouts. The Facebook link shows videos from our club layout. John
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