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brossard

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  1. I'm steering away from loco kits for now, until I get my layout going - TBF it is in a running and operable state, just have to start the painting of track etc. I did buy a second hand Slaters 1F kit but nothing happening right now. I have plenty of locos to be going on with - and loads of wagons. The Jinty is one of faves. I have the Dapol Jinty with sound, what a superb model! John
  2. Agree, let's hope someone takes them on. Hope whoever does keeps up the quality. Adrian was a stickler for detail and his rants about the shortcomings of various RTR models are legendary. John
  3. Jim's kits are excellent. I built his NBR goods brake for a friend. Most enjoyable. John
  4. Just been through the Connoisseur site, I think this is the booklet: http://www.jimmcgeown.com/Print Off FAQ Booklet pdf.pdf I've been thinking, just what should a book on metal wagon building contain? Obviously it would ideally provide instuctions on soldering (but as I have learned, everyone seems to have their individual take on this). Other than the means of joining parts, metal wagon kits aren't really any different from plastic wagon kits (and I have built dozens of both media). What I think is needed are tips for getting those finer details on the model. Kits
  5. Indeed, the modeller needs to adopt the method that suits him/her best. The prototype method (buckeye dropped at the loco end) requires some surgery to the gangway. A regular screw link installed in the coach is probably easier but not prototypical. Always a struggle to minimize compromises. John
  6. OK Pete, memory faulty as usual. I also built an 0 gauge ABS whitemetal GWR open wagon. Excellent castings and the result was very pleasing. I cheated and used CA glue though. Not something I would buy but I was given the kit FOC at a show. John
  7. Hmmm, I cannot honestly think of a book dedicated to metal wagons. Rice has done books on most aspects of modelling; plastic wagons, plastic locos, whitemetal locos and brass locos. His Etched Brass Chassis Construction is well worth having. I think Geoff Kent's 3 volume set on 4mm Wagons is very good. However, IIRC, all the subjects are plastic. In general, you cannot beat the Wild Swan range of modelling books. Trouble is, by now, most are out of print so you need to hunt them down. Wagons tend not be very complicated, I think if you are co
  8. Not as far as I know. He does create threads for his kits on RMweb though, so keep an eye out. John
  9. Here's my thread on upgrading the interior of Dapol's 0 gauge autocoach: In the text I detail my process for interior panel painting. I used Humbrol Matte Sand, enamel not acrylic, although I generally use acrylics for most of my painting. John
  10. Ah, no danger of that, I will put the switches (which are manual anyway) on the loco ends. I have a paper gangway affair between the coaches. John
  11. I received three sets of light kits from Layouts4U last week. These are for my 0 gauge Heljan Gresley coaches. I've had a quick look and it looks, from the instructions, that the best location for the on/off switch (yes, I bought the wrong ones) is in the end doors. I will report on my progress. John
  12. If the top coat is going to be maroon, which is a translucent, my preference for primer is red oxide. John
  13. I couldn't agree more about Ian's kits. I built his 7mm Palbrick and I was extremely impressed. I'm not going to say it was easy, every kit has it's challenges. I also had to fill in the blanks on the underframe detail. John
  14. OK Les, always good to throw ideas around. Look forward to seeing what you do. John
  15. For modelling purposes, and Mike is doing N gauge, I don't see an issue with depth. The Scalescenes product is a kit so depth can be adjusted if one wants to be precise. In any case, I haven't seen anyone say what the depth should actually be. John
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