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brossard

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    A Bloke in Quebec

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  1. I like that you are doing this review John. Copper clad turnouts are a great way to start making your own turnouts. I hope others take the plunge. Thinking back I started by re-manufacturing old code 100 Peco turnouts by stripping away the plastic timbers and re-using the rail. I still had to construct a new crossing though. I agree that the postage is a bit breathtaking. I can't fathom how in country postage can be that expensive unless the parcel is an odd size. John
  2. A milestone today as I married the brake 3rd underframe, body and roof for the first time. Quite pleased with this. NBR had vermillion brake ends which look striking. Roof is on loosely and is a very good fit. It is ready to give back to the owner for him to line and apply transfers (assuming they become available). After that, T handles and I have made internal panels. I prepared seats today. It is too glossy for my taste as it is. This is to aid transfer adhesion. Once they are done it will get some satin or matte varnish.
  3. I agree about the temp. For this time of year here, the temperature has been remarkably mild. Usually -20 C and less sometimes is normal for January. Vive le global warming! Your work so far has been stunning, I have no doubt that your coach will be a jaw dropper. The van pictured is lovely. I was just starting to add super detail to 4mm wagons before I went to 7mm. I would like to see more people do that. John
  4. All I can say is that my experience with ply, Peco chairs and MEK is very good. As mentioned above, it may be down to the ply timber being used. I use Intentio wooden timbers that have been stained with water based stain. I gave up on Peco plastic timbers because in every case they bowed at the crossing area. I think because they are hollow. C&L timbers are solid so much better. I buy Peco components because they are readily available. John
  5. Just remember that Kirk "kits" are very basic indeed. Knowing how you like to scratchbuild these are a great starting point for a high fidelity coach model. It comes down to how many parts you want to buy in (like bogies) and how much effort you wish to put in. It's going down to -13C here tonight John
  6. An experiment to try if you are skeptical about the use of MEK/Butanone (these are identical btw). Fix a chair to some scrap sleeper with the solvent. Remember to flood and press down a little so that the melted ABS has a chance to grab the grain. Let it set then thread a piece of rail through. If you pull up on the rail, you should see the chair jaws fail and the chair base remain in place. John
  7. I haven't bought anything from Hattons recently but I did get a 7mm loco last year that exceeded 2Kg so it came by DHL. Expensive and I did get dinged for Sales Tax (normally Canada Post rarely bothers). The parcel did arrive in about 3 days so that was good. John
  8. Rob, I built a lot of 7mm turnouts using Peco chairs and wooden timbers. I used MEK/Butanone as solvent and it has worked great. You do need to flood the joint because the solvent evaporates quickly. Press down as well to make sure the chair base is in contact with the timber. You could use CA I suppose. Expensive stuff though. I use CA to glue the stock rails to the slide chairs, that is a weak spot. John
  9. I just did a test on a Scalescenes kit that I have. This is a screenshot: It doesn't appear to default to 94%. The default is "Custom Scale" and 100%. Back to the drawing board for you I guess. I recommend that, if you plan to construct a lot of Scalescenes kits, you buy a good quality printer. John
  10. I got the family to chip in for an Avonside chassis jig many years ago. Very expensive as pointed out above: https://www.eileensemporium.com/materials-for-modellers/category/avonside-chassis-squared-jigs For some reason, Eileen's say they can't do export orders at the moment. This is not something I've seen from other retailers. It has proved useful. The jig pictured in John's post looks to be good value, especially for the occasional loco kit builder. Then again if you have Rice's book on Etched Chassis Construction, you can have a
  11. Good point Adrian. I will think on it. John
  12. Thanks Ian. Sheet BL56 for those who are interested. However, 25.50 is a lot for just the two words I need. I have the rest of the lettering. John
  13. Wagon painted (quite difficult since there are nooks and crannies that are hard to get to). I bought a Fox transfer sheet containing "PALBRICK" but the letters are far too big to fit on the angle at the end of the wagon. Anyone know of a better source? I checked RailTech but didn't see anything for PALBRICK. Not surprising really since this wagon isn't commonly modelled. I may just have to leave the lettering at load rating and number. It doesn't make sense to me that the lettering would be on the side panels. These lift out and I can imagine them being swapped as time went o
  14. A couple of points about soldering. First I would say that, based on what I have seen on RMweb, everyone seems to have their own way of soldering and if it works for you, great. My first point is about solder quantity control. For years now I have cut a tiny piece of solder from the roll and applied by picking it up on the iron tip. I still have to clean up but I don't get great gobs of the stuff on the work. Second, if you can't pick solder up with your bit, it is done and you need a new one. I got myself some brass wool a while ago and it has been great at keeping
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