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    A Bloke in Quebec

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  1. I've had this kit on my "to do" shelf for quite a while. I'm in the mood for a kit build so here we go. I made a start today and it mostly went in a straightforward way. Here's where I got: The only issue I had was that the door hinges took an age to do. Partly my fault as they should have been installed before joining sides and ends together. Half etched brass strips but nowhere near the right width so I had to spend a lot of time fettling. If anyone can provide info on the underframe layout, that would be grand. The kit design uses a Cle
  2. I totally agree that MMP kits are superb. I have a lot of experience with etched kits so thought I could tackle the MMP underframes. I was wrong and it all went pear shaped when I tried to make the leaf springs work. I felt that using the Peco underframe would get me where I needed to be. I'm happy with the results. John
  3. You don't want to be adding up the cost of your stuff, you'll scare yourself. I don't think about it and, like you, just enjoy the experience. I did do a Parkside 1/108. I also did three, including a 1/109 (rivetted) and 2 ex LMS, from MMP. I did manage to build the bodies OK but the underframes defeated me . I susbstituted Peco underframes which are very good IMO. John
  4. When I've used salt (perhaps I should have used the coarse stuff instead of table), removing it is pretty brutal, sometimes taking off the underlying paint. To fix that and improve the look of some rust spots, I dabbed on some rust paint and sprinkled rust powder while still wet. Then use a dry brush to streak it. So, how many steel mineral wagons do you need? I've got 4 (all different) and I think that's enough. John
  5. Here's a comparison shot of the two slips: Things are now in the hands of the PW dept. I have pulled up track at both ends of the slip along with the old slip. I will slowly reinstate things. Getting the track to align with the new slip appears to be not too bad. John
  6. Very good job there Hal. It looks good. I did my minerals in a similar way. All we can do is our best and try to improve. John
  7. Amazing speed of construction and great looking with it. Cracking stuff Andy. Lovely blast from the past Clive. John
  8. Well done with the trackwork. It flows nicely and looks very good. John
  9. That is looking good. Always satisfying to scratch build something. There is probably bolt detail on the solebar I'm thinking. I would recommend Archer rivet/bolt head transfers. John
  10. I had a fair few 00 wagons when I did that scale but they're all gone now, sold off. I never had anywhere near 500 though. I realized early on that I would never have the time, energy, resources or space to do both scales. I am very happy with 0 gauge and I couldn't see going back. Dapol was very helpful to me with the transition. Their locos are very affordable. I do have a couple of Tower brass locos, the price of which made my eyes water. We are still very limited for choice in RTR locos unless you do GWR You'll forgive me, I hope, for being scepti
  11. Just found this thread. Your kit builds look great! I like how you repaired the van side. I would say that I dislike the Parkside WM vac pipes and replace them with Slaters flexible vac pipes, maybe that's me though. One of first kits was the LNER van. Here's my rendition of the underframe: My methods have evolved since. However, you see a representation of the vacuum pipe. You will note that vac pipes go under the buffer beam. Nowadays I make the vac pipe a bit beefier and try to join it to the bufferbeam pipes. I also add a piece of wir
  12. Yesterday I wired the slip. This entailed several jumpers to bond the various rails. See the link above for which pieces of rail need to be bonded. Today was the fiddly job of stretcher bars. I'm using the JLTRT (now MM1) pack: The copper clad strip is from C&L and is 3mm wide by 1mm thick. There are several options given in the pack directions from double sided tape to glue. I prefer solder. The stretcher bars used today were my last ones: On the right is a jig I made to give me 29mm from tab to tab. I have al
  13. Excellent advice Kevin. I will keep that in mind. The loco is on the back burner for now though, too much layout work to do. John
  14. Fair point. I have wondered how the container could be made removable. John
  15. Slaters M7022 BR Container Shackles. John
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