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Pete Goss

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  1. Guten tag Torsten. Hope you are well. I will be contacting Herr Ebe again very soon once the brewery and maltings boards are completed. Auf Wiedersehn.
  2. Mike We are due to bring the layout to Portsmouth next year coincidentally as a 'work in progress'.
  3. Paul I am assuming the staircase is at the back of the box (parallel to the track). That is what I am modelling. The signal box appears to only control the crossing gates and local signal. The brewery points in my case will be operated by 2 ground frames mounted on small timber decks. Photo's soon. This may be over the top as most contemporary pictures I have show points mostly hand lever operated at ground level next to the point, but as horses and foot traffic were at ground level as much as at platform level, I have (conveniently) covered all the point rodding in timbers.
  4. AY mod. many thanks for the 'our picks' slot that I have only just spotted! I am hopeless at seeing the obvious quite often. PG
  5. Chaps, Many thanks for all your very kind comments. It is great that people are prepared to follow these old ramblings and discuss some of the topics and elements. I have certainly learnt a lot from peoples comments, both what to do and what not to do of course. I don't believe you can completely create these things without such interaction. Cheers Pete
  6. Martyn Funnily enough, they are still about. 'Rowlands Castle' can be seen at Stanstead House in Rowlands Castle, Hampshire during summer months I believe, and is going to the Netherlands next year as part of a Dutch celebration of the Allied help given to them during the war. 'The Worlds End' is out next January in Knaresborough, North Yorkshire as part of a charity weekend. And Copper Wort is going to Pickering, Portsmouth and Spalding next year, but the High Street scene probably won't be complete but I am hoping the brewery will be complete. Cheers Pete
  7. Captain K. Your setts have come out great. They look really good. After some consternation I decided to use BnQ household filler with a tad of pva. Scribing is done with a small engineers screwdriver, head maginifier's and reading glasses. Previous comments on this thread have suggested other materials including tile filler as you have done and DAS. I agree that enamels would be best for painting. As the water based filler absorbs quickly I am looking to paint the setts before carefully washing in the gaps, and this week I am experimenting with the order of things at the moment. I have made up a few sample squares to practice techniques before committing fully. 3 options are being considered. 1. airbrush thinly with light stone colour, then wash the joints, 2. dry brush over the top of the setts leaving joints bare, then wash the joints, or 3 paint the surface before scribing (this method would be to maintain clarity of joint). Just washing bare filler and wiping results can result in a bit if a mush particularly using water based paints on filler. The clarity is lost. I will post the results soon. Maybe the tile filler would have been better as it is water proof and would have taken paints better. Pete
  8. Here are some pictures of the setts being scribed into the dried and sanded filler. The painted section is an Humbrol matt enamels mix of 67 tank grey and 29 earth brown heavily thinned and simply washed on. The filler absorbs paint very quickly so earlier attempts at painting and wiping off as you would for embossed plasticard doesn't work. The thinner the paint the better. I also found that acrylic paint turns the surface into a blurred mush and stone definition is lost. This scribing process does take a long time to create but you can't have it all ways. The setts are roughly 4mm long and 2mm wide. Slightly larger than life but any smaller is nigh on impossible to control when scribing.
  9. The 'check rails' are actually 1.5mm square plastic strip notched to represent a row of edge setts following a couple of contemporary photos I am using. No rails. The set area between is then to be masked off before filling with fine filler then scored with a ruler before scoring again by hand.
  10. I have now started the ground work, setting the buildings out on 4 boards before returning to complete the remaining brewery buildings. These are the maltings and brew house boards with sett work preparation and the start of the ale banks. The High Street board will probably be left until the other 4 boards are further on, as it is a separate entity altogether and needs focussing on separately.
  11. We took the layout to the East Anglian Model Railway show at Kettering last month. Jackie had insisted I took it in 'whatever state it was as people like to see how things are put together; and it also shows it doesn't just all come out of a box!'. So here we were all set up ready. It was a really good weekend. Once back home I carried out the planned major change of moving the High Street board from its current location at one end of the brewery to between the malting's and brewery boards. This now reflects more accurately the image of Burton town centre with brewery buildings all round and level crossings on every street. (Board 3 on the diagram.) Plan Gg June 2019.pdf
  12. Truly awful news. My sympathy to all those affected. Terrible! I was in the middle of some writing when Julie shouted through the news, and the wind has gone out of my sails. Speechless. I believe the news is now in the top 10 most read BBC items. Pete
  13. The Worlds End was designed on purpose to be scenic with trains running straight through, with the odd 158 unit turnback over the viaduct crossing for variety. This one is obviously more intimate and even though it will involve shunting of course I was hoping to promise the very short trains a trip around the layout once on their way to the next siding to be shunted. That way I don't have to concentrate as much and won't rush through the running order too fast and can hopefully still keep things moving whilst chatting. Time wise I guess I do spend a lot of time modelling. Try not to watch telly you see! I keep lists of things to do and things to get so I'm not waiting too long to get the next bit done. cheers, Pete
  14. Actually could do with a whistle..... a small steam loco whistle sound operated by a push button 12v DC?? Any ideas?
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