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  1. because it's semi-liquid it's getting squished outward in the build plates downward stroke, you get a little extra resin traped each time which then gets part cured. Eventually this extra resin slumps downward under gravity, forming the too thick layers.
  2. My guess is it's not actually pooling but something similar, because it's a solid mass you can't get pooling a such. It's a transparent resin, so you need reduce the exposure due to UV bleed through from the layers below. But a side effect of this is that the last few layers are not exposed quite enough as there are no layers below. Coupled with the area being exposed reducing each layer as we near the apex, those last few layers will be underexposed, more liquid and sag a little under their own weight, before being squashed outward when the build plate returns to the bottom.
  3. Prepping things for print is a different skill from doing the CaD work
  4. Are you intending to print these yourself or sell the files for people to print at home? You don't get particularly good quality out of FDM printers in general - it's OK at larger scales and we've done some 4mm scale wagons that are acceptable, but I don't think you could do sellable OO scale locos with it. Resin printers are a different matter - they are not quite as good as injection molding, but better than most of the whitemetal kits out there. This is a little 009 loco I sell to fit the minitrix dock tank chassis This is straig
  5. If it's your first printer I wouldn't advise buying one with the larger bed size. They are slower and if you make a mistake and crack the screen it's very expensive to replace. learn how to do supports and the like on one of the smaller printers first - your mistakes will be smaller and cheaper. My choice would be one of the printers with a 6 inch mono screen. I prefer Elegoo simply because they come with vanilla Chitubox software which you can easily keep upto date. Anycubic use their own bastardized version of this which is at least one rel
  6. And there are several new photons coming out https://www.anycubic.com/pages/anycubic-5th-anniversary
  7. Yes main advantage for home users is it's bigger. The speed is of more interest to people using them in a production environment. For the casual user the larger size = larger vat = more resin needed. if you are only using it occasionally there is always the chance the resin in the vat might have gone off and you will waste more. And the Saturn is an untried machine,the Mars has been around for a while and fixes for it's problems known already
  8. I missed out on the first batch, gave up and bought a Mars Not regretted it so far ! Gn15 loco
  9. Those settings are dissimilar to mine - I'm using .05 layer height and 50% support density are the two most relevant ones I think, I use medium auto supports then add some heavy ones in the corner and anywhere else i think might distort. Reason for those two prints both being at a sharp angle is that the are both about 15mm longer than the Mars can print - it's the only way I can get them to fit !. Most of my stuff is about 15 angle and sometimes 8 or so in the other plane.
  10. you're getting a lot more lines than me - what support structure are you using ?
  11. Is it possible it's just that you can see the print lines more clearly on the opaque gray, where as the translucent ones let the light pass through so you don't get the shadows cast by the imperfections. I've been have problems with print lines originating from the corners of things - this seems to result in some sort of movement in model relative to fep film.
  12. I've been using a Mars for the past couple of weeks, with the idea of producing many of the models I sell on Shapeways at a lower cost . I've standardised on using the Elegoo gray ABS like resin - It's much less brittle than the normal resin, though with a slightly matt finish. It's not particularly cheap - €25 for 500ml - but it gives me the results I want and that's in my opinion is worth paying for. Hopefully the 1 liter bottles at €37 will come back into stock soon at Amazon FR. It's enabled me to produce some of the some of the Stuff that has never sold at Shapewa
  13. Printing at Shapeways and printing at home are two different things with two different sets of costs. Nearest analogy i can make is going out to eat a meal at a restaurant and cooking the same meal at home. You know the former will be more expensive but the results should be better because they have more experience doing it and have better equipment to work with, although this is not always the case in both scenarios! Doing it at home will take more of your time and skills and you may have to make capital expenditure if you don't have the right equipment - having said t
  14. This is another problem for me - I'm in France and selling things means registering a business to do this, however payments from Shapeways count as royalties, where you don't need to have a registered business - like an author, I could be receiving those royalties long after I've done the work creating something.
  15. Maybe, but then they go away feeling cheated or even worse, thinking that you are calling them stupid. Or of course they could just say they are having problems to get a refund......
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