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  1. You need a watch maker rather than a repairer - I had an uncle who was one, but he retired about 18 years ago and is in his 80's now - I don't think there are many left ! Resin - think people are referring to the fact that most resins tend to be on the brittle side. However there are specialist resins that are more resilient - this is one I've used - https://siraya.tech/collections/europe/products/tenacious-eu-1kg-by-siraya-tech
  2. It's the support structure flexing slightly during the up and downs of the printing process. I put 6 heavy supports in to minimise this - 3 along each long edge touching somewhere strong but inconspicuous. If that doesn't cure it, increase the exposure slightly, so that the supports are harder and stiffer
  3. This just popped up on Facebook Ferrocarril Central Argentino No.9 'Cordoba' Canada Works, Birkenhead, works No.218 of 1867
  4. because it's semi-liquid it's getting squished outward in the build plates downward stroke, you get a little extra resin traped each time which then gets part cured. Eventually this extra resin slumps downward under gravity, forming the too thick layers.
  5. My guess is it's not actually pooling but something similar, because it's a solid mass you can't get pooling a such. It's a transparent resin, so you need reduce the exposure due to UV bleed through from the layers below. But a side effect of this is that the last few layers are not exposed quite enough as there are no layers below. Coupled with the area being exposed reducing each layer as we near the apex, those last few layers will be underexposed, more liquid and sag a little under their own weight, before being squashed outward when the build plate returns to the bottom. As the build plate rises after the print has finished, those layers will sag again giving layers of increased thickness.. I'd solve this by making it hollow, angling it front to back by 30 degrees and putting supports along the valleys and edges only
  6. Prepping things for print is a different skill from doing the CaD work
  7. Are you intending to print these yourself or sell the files for people to print at home? You don't get particularly good quality out of FDM printers in general - it's OK at larger scales and we've done some 4mm scale wagons that are acceptable, but I don't think you could do sellable OO scale locos with it. Resin printers are a different matter - they are not quite as good as injection molding, but better than most of the whitemetal kits out there. This is a little 009 loco I sell to fit the minitrix dock tank chassis This is straight off the printer, with just the supports removed, no cleaning up. Generally for resin printers the files don't need to be split, it's just a case of getting the orientation and the supports right - but that is an art in itself. For this little O&K coach It needs to be printed like this for the best results and ease of support removal If you do want to split files up, it's much easier to do in the original cad files, rather than trying to work with the STL's Somewhere I have an FR England loco we split up for FDM printing, but I wasn't happy with the quality we were getting - I'll see if I can dig out the files and the photos. BTW the little green tank in your Kickstarter is one of my designs - It OK you can use it, it's on the Thingiverse with free use, including commercial. Tom
  8. If it's your first printer I wouldn't advise buying one with the larger bed size. They are slower and if you make a mistake and crack the screen it's very expensive to replace. learn how to do supports and the like on one of the smaller printers first - your mistakes will be smaller and cheaper. My choice would be one of the printers with a 6 inch mono screen. I prefer Elegoo simply because they come with vanilla Chitubox software which you can easily keep upto date. Anycubic use their own bastardized version of this which is at least one release behind - it generates much poorer supports in particular. So my choice would be the Mars 2 Pro - about £275 at the moment
  9. And there are several new photons coming out https://www.anycubic.com/pages/anycubic-5th-anniversary
  10. Yes main advantage for home users is it's bigger. The speed is of more interest to people using them in a production environment. For the casual user the larger size = larger vat = more resin needed. if you are only using it occasionally there is always the chance the resin in the vat might have gone off and you will waste more. And the Saturn is an untried machine,the Mars has been around for a while and fixes for it's problems known already
  11. I missed out on the first batch, gave up and bought a Mars Not regretted it so far ! Gn15 loco
  12. Those settings are dissimilar to mine - I'm using .05 layer height and 50% support density are the two most relevant ones I think, I use medium auto supports then add some heavy ones in the corner and anywhere else i think might distort. Reason for those two prints both being at a sharp angle is that the are both about 15mm longer than the Mars can print - it's the only way I can get them to fit !. Most of my stuff is about 15 angle and sometimes 8 or so in the other plane.
  13. you're getting a lot more lines than me - what support structure are you using ?
  14. Is it possible it's just that you can see the print lines more clearly on the opaque gray, where as the translucent ones let the light pass through so you don't get the shadows cast by the imperfections. I've been have problems with print lines originating from the corners of things - this seems to result in some sort of movement in model relative to fep film.
  15. I've been using a Mars for the past couple of weeks, with the idea of producing many of the models I sell on Shapeways at a lower cost . I've standardised on using the Elegoo gray ABS like resin - It's much less brittle than the normal resin, though with a slightly matt finish. It's not particularly cheap - €25 for 500ml - but it gives me the results I want and that's in my opinion is worth paying for. Hopefully the 1 liter bottles at €37 will come back into stock soon at Amazon FR. It's enabled me to produce some of the some of the Stuff that has never sold at Shapeways because of it's prices there - £60 for this Freelance but GWR styled bogie railcar for instance or this colonial style bogie car It's also enabled me to new things that were just too expensive to ever make before, like this 009 steeplecab loco blown up to 1:35 scale and an open tram trailer for it to pull If you're wondering why my succulents appear in the background of some of these, it's because I'm UV hardening them in sunlight outside, on the shelves where I propagate the succulents.
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