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Everything posted by [email protected]

  1. Very true Kevin. Having been a modeller for more years than I care to count I know that many of the ‘big names’ are/we’re very good at absorbing innovations, ideas and techniques from others and passing them off as their own. Bit like the honour system where the M.D. gets the knighthood while the ones who did the real work go unrecognised! Ian
  2. I have a completely untouched 7mm kit in my stock. It is complete with Slaters wheels but no motor or gears. I bought it when Pete brought it out. It is a pretty little engine but it is not really appropriate for my area of interest so I am open to offers. Ian.
  3. Yes that is the boiler off Polkemmet No8. All of the loco was/ is in very poor condition and of use only for spares. Ian.
  4. Hi, Dunaskin NCB shed, on the West Ayr Area Waterside system, was among the last new shed to be built to house steam locos. It has 4 roads each with a full length pit and long enough for 3 x 4 coupled pugs at a squeeze. It is still in use by the Ayrshire Railway Preservation group and apart from replacement doors is virtually as built. Ian.
  5. Industrial pugs will go round very sharp curves. Scale 7 models will do likewise. On my old S7 Layout, Auchlin, I ran industrial pugs with short trains round an S curve of 24" radius on a gradient of 1 in 12 to get the colliery branch under the main line. It did have a check rail on the visible part but not on the reverse which was on the operators side. The trains were restricted to 3 loaded wagons, but that was fine from an operating point of view, and kept the action moving for the spectator. At the exchange sidings there was a loop used to run round and permit the wagons to be left
  6. No don’t. The scale thickness is just fine unlike the great thick footplates on David Andrews Kits. My Jubilee has been stalled for a long time while I contemplate replacing the footplate and a few other bits for scale parts. I had hoped that the next Finney kit would have been a Jubilee rather than that B thing! Ian.
  7. I found these two pictures of the bunkers of 1614 NCB West Ayr Area No19 A 16” built in 1918 for Dalmellington Iron Co. and now at the Scottish Industrial Railway Centre at Dunaskin. The pictures were taken when She was having her boiler removed to put onto No 10, 2244 of 1947. You can see there is a bit of rust round the bottoms, they are sitting upside down!. The scale is inches. Hope this is of use. The bottom picture is upside down. Ian
  8. Kind of, DICo no14 is a 16”. I don’t have access to my pc just now where the prototype photos are stored but this is my rendition of the livery on a model. The full size engine is in the museum at Dunaskin and can be viewed on open days. First this year is on Easter Sunday. This model was painted with the same paint as we used on the full size loco but it doesn’t look dark enough. I have been intending to repaint but just not found time yet. Ian.
  9. When Dalmellington Iron Co no 16 was being restored at Dunaskin we also found the original dark green underneath. The frames were the same colour but the lining is a straw/yellow not white and black. Ian.
  10. Hi It is best to do the spectacles before erecting the cab This is a method which works. For spectacle surrounds, of any shape, cut out or file two pieces of thin brass to the shape of the outside of the frame. Solder two pieces of brass together before shaping, 4 if it’s a tank loco cab and the back is the same as the front, and they will all be the same. Solder to the cab front in the correct place and drill through. Saw, file etc to give the inside shape. If the spectacle is round and you can find a bit of brass tube the correct diameter just cut a slice and solder in place. File
  11. I built my first loco kit, Jamieson 0-4-4t, using an iron just like those. I worked in the kitchen and the iron was heated in the Rayburn stove. Nowadays I have an ersa soldering station. The mistake most soldering beginners make is not having a big enough heat. For successful soldering the iron has to heat the joint to soldering temperature quickly so for 7mm brass kits go for something rated 40 watts or more. Ian
  12. I should add that if you are getting close to your model and have a lot of hair dust can descend from your mop! One advantage of being bald but otherwise wear a net or mop cap. How we suffer for our art! Ian
  13. Make the dust settle in your painting room and keep it there while you paint! Before I had a dedicated painting booth I used the kitchen which had no fluffy curtains or carpets only hard surfaces. It was also quite small and easy to heat. Boil a kettle or pan of water and let the room get a bit steamy. Let the steam condense out on the work surfaces where it traps any airborne dust. Keep the doors shut to stop more blowing in. Wear fluff free clothing, cotton shirt etc, NO woolly jumpers! When the air is clear paint your model and place it under a shoe box immediately until dry
  14. Sorry, but you will have problems getting pictures. Riverside is working more as a crèche than a museum. The stuff is crammed in and last time I was there there were displays all along one side of 123 with the other side partly concealed, everything below running plate, by the walk way! Don’t get me started on G&SW No9 which is poked out of a rat hole way up on the wall! If you want to measure anything make sure you get permission from one of the attendants, some are very helpful and welcome a distraction while others can be worse than Russian border guards! Just what harm will a t
  15. Hi, I have been to Glasgow to inspect the drawings on a number of occasions. I can tell you that the experience can be very rewarding but it can also be extremely frustrating! There is a catalogue giving details of works numbers and basic info, ie 0-4-0t etc. There is usually a list of drawings available for each loco but these are only very sketchily detailed and quite often don’t give you a real idea of what there is to see. What you have to remember with Barclays is that they built a lot of ‘standard’ locos which shared dimensions and common components but individual locos may h
  16. Mike, I have done something similar but used brass sheet which draws better than the nickel silver. However for what you needed here, just a subtle amount of curvature, the NS is the best material. It is also easier to solder the hinges onto NS than brass. Nice Work., Correction, Very Nice Work! Ian.
  17. Years ago I used the Skinley drawing for my P4 model of the 306 class. Still got it and a recent photo attached below. The lettering on 306 was from Leteraset rub down transfers and hand coloured and shaded. For 323 I used the decals available from the G&SWRA. Since then I have built another in 7mm scale but this time I had sight of a GA. The Skinley one is not not too bad for accuracy and they were the only drawings available in the 70s. Probably the most significant feature on a locomotive is the Chimney. The Manson one was quite distinct. Ian
  18. Jack Kites books, I have two, are excellent with most pre group companies covered. He had an eclectic taste in railways. However most views are late Victirian or Edwardian period as are most photos available from the collections from which prints are sold. Remember photography was new and expensive in the period we are discussing here. Worth trying the relevant line Societies for back copies of their journals as they often publish useful views. They also have experts who can help with specific questions but make sure you don’t ask for too much and you are prepared to give them something
  19. Northroader, While my post above didn’t include anything GWR it did have a loco which worked on the GWR! G&SWR No 168 was one of 7 locos from the Sou’West which was loaned to the GWR during the first war. It worked from Old Oak Common and replaced Dean Goods which had been requisitioned by the WD for use in France. I like your pug too, Ian.
  20. Some locomotive action, or not!, this afternoon. The crew of humble goods engine No168 wait patiently for their turn at the water tank while 4-6-0 No 383 takes its fill. Ian
  21. Hi, Some nice panels but can I make a correction Glasgow & South Western Railway was G&SWR not as you have it. Waist panels on coaching stock had semicircular ends and upper panels had curved corners at the top but square on the bottom. There were a few coaches where the upper panels were curved top and bottom but they were ex M&GSW Joint stock of Midland design. There was a fine crimson line 1/8” between the straw and the black lining but your drawing is probably too small to show that up. I don’t even attempt it in 7mm scale! The Garter Crest was not used on coaching st
  22. I use the same system in S7 for 0-4-4Ts. However to minimise rear buffer throw I support the loco rear end on the bogie centre but pivot the bogie just in front of the inner axle. The bogie is three point suspended with the rigid axle at the front and the other axle pivoted at its midpoint. Because the sprung driven axle is within the tanks plenty of sideplay can be given to the wheels without compromising looks. I haven’t used the system on 4-4-0s because the inside motion tends to get in the way! Ian.
  23. These Kirk wagons are pretty good when you consider when the kits were made and what was available at the time. They were easy kits for the maker too having opening doors at both ends, only needing mouldings for 1 side and 1 end! The G&SW was one of the lines which was very careful and only permitted a few private owners to run their own wagons. It controlled the condition of the vehicles running and could charge demurrage if the user was too slow in emptying them! When they were repainting wagons the G&SWR tended to forget the black ironwork on the bodies and just painted everything
  24. G&SWR 266class 0-4-4tank No 269 on a special working with the ‘Shebeen’ or Officers Saloon.
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