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Happy Hippo

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Happy Hippo last won the day on December 1 2019

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  • Location
    Horton, which is too near Telford
  • Interests
    Hippopotami (what else?)
    Reptiles
    Staffordshire Bull Terriers
    Sailing in small boats
    Rugby Union football, especially Wales.
    Recreational cycling to keep myself fit.
    Air gun coaching: Teaching people to shoot in a safe and sensible manner.
    Currently building a 7 mm scale railway based on the railways of the Cardiff Docks area.
    More relaxed and whimsical ng modelling in the garden at 1:13.7 and 1:12 scales on 1.75" gauge track.
    Building 'Crusty', an ng 0-4-0 PE loco in 7.25" gauge.

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  1. In one of my books on S Wales, there is a picture of a later version of a pannier pulling a 'paddy train'. In this case the 'coaches' were 4 wheelers: They look like standard box vans with the doors removed and foot steps added. Not 4 wheel coaches, but it is an option. Failing that either use rule one or perhaps have a junction with a Light Railway that uses 4 wheel coaches........ Then have a loco failure so the LR has to hire in a loco from the GWR.
  2. You just need another one. Do you have four Mica? Shades of four candles!
  3. I am considering coming to the show by train this year. Pyle 'Parkway' to Cardiff Central ought to be fun. Can I spot the site of the old station as we roar through Peterson-super-Ely? I spent many happy hours there as a child.
  4. From what the OP has written, I'd have assumed that all the axles are from one source which would suggest a reasonably consistent diameter. So, if some bearings work, and others don't then the obvious solution is to ream the misbehaving bearings out to the correct diameter for the axles. The question I would ask is were the bearings all checked before you soldered them in place? If not you may not have soldered them in place so that they are in line with each other, Ditto making sure the 'frames' are parallel. As you can imagine, any misalignment would mean that the axle would slide into one bearing, but would foul on the lip of the hole on the other! As others have pointed out, once you get into the realms of kit or even scratch building, there comes a point where you do need to invest in some decent tools in order to progress. The kitchen table, Grannies old dress making scissors and Uncle Bob's b*stard cut file are only the starting point when it comes to move on from rtr.
  5. Hi Julian, Sadly I'm not so much help here. The kit from SSS would appear to be the independent disc (double) with the square lamp housings. The MSE/Wizard independent disc(single) would appear to be the 1918 design. Whether these are made by Westinghouse I cannot say, but pictures of both appear in Vaughn's book on GWR signalling by OPC.
  6. My non DCC version of this coach doesn't have lights, so running it on my DCC equipped line doesn't present any problems. My B set which is non DCC has lights and runs on both my own and the club's DCC equipped layout with out any problems.
  7. Try Wizard Models or Scale Signal Supply. I got a single disc versions from Wizard and a double disc version from SSS.
  8. It does say plug in, not necessarily unplug. I suppose the best type of removable signal was made by (I think) Derek Mundy. It had a base incorporating a 16mm dia tube, inside of which were the operating gubbins. these were driven by push rods under the baseboards which were connected to either hand operated levers or servos/solenoids. The signals went in and out with ease. Personally, having built a number of portable layouts over the years, when I've installed a signal, the last thing I want to be doing is continually removing it and putting it back in. I suppose if you want to put signals in and out at will then that's fine, but something will eventually give. How do those with ohle or heaven forbid, telegraph poles cope? you'd spend more time erecting and dismantling than you ever would operating. Surely the solution is to design a packing crate that is fit for purpose? (And it could be a small box that fits over the signal to protect it.)
  9. A mattress on the floor of the Transit. The big plus is that it has other possibilities!
  10. There is a tale that when the searchlight style signals were installed at the east end of Cardiff General station, the exhaust blast from 28/42/72xx locos making a standing start 'up the hill' would blow the lights out! Allegedly the exhaust blast hitting the underside of the gantry's smoke deflector was powerful enough to twist the gantry ever so slightly, but still enough to deflect the beam of light so that it appeared to go out.
  11. Like John, I have been using Peco code 124 bullhead track and then using the Peco components to build my own turnouts. In my case, I'm too mean to buy in ready cut sleepers so cut my own sleeper strip using a small table saw. There is nothing wrong with buying in the Peco ready made turnouts as evidenced by the large number of 7mm gauge layouts on the exhibition circuit that use these. Be aware that the Peco code 124 is not really bullhead, but is a form of flat bottom so the rail is not a direct replacement for the proper bullhead rail offered by other manufacturers such as C&L. (Edit: This means that the Peco rail will not fit any chairs or fishplates designed for code 125 bullhead: well they do, but they are either a rattle fit or too tight. this is not what you want when trackbuilding.) I've not done a direct cost comparison between building your track completely from components as opposed to buying in Peco track panels, but if you want to get something running quickly then the Peco track is definitely the way to go. What I would suggest is getting both rtr pointwork and also buying in the component parts. That way you can get something running quite quickly and as your confidence in the new scale improves, you have the ability to improve the railway and your skills by making your own trackwork. Don't be in a rush, visit various layout threads and don't be afraid to ask either on line (or by pm if you prefer). Remember the only stupid question is the one you don't ask.
  12. Excellent work on making the steps, especially using a 'U' and then snipping off when complete: I'd have been there trying to solder two separate pins in and cursing when the first fell out as the second got up to temperature. I'd also have never thought of making a stop for the work like that either I'd have ended up trying to fix something to the machine vice....... Although the machine vice looks very familiar. I think I must have the twin sister of yours. Whilst blathering, I must also say how much I enjoyed the PD axlebox mods. I have a few kits to do and I'll certainly be applying said springing in due course.
  13. Is it some sort of perverted brain twist that gets these discussions about track/points/wheels going on a very regular basis? They can be of differing scales, but are usually from the 4 mm stable. All the track and wheel standards for the various combinations that the railway modelling world has created are laid down somewhere, as are the deviations (tolerances) that are considered workable. If it isn't working as it should, then the user has usually got something wrong. Sometimes I think that poor Martin Wynne must get up of a morning and bang his head hard against a spiked wall before having to try and explain to yet another the hows and whys of track and wheel combinations Surely there is no Finescale? when you build a single model railway, you are modelling to a set scale. Although I suppose you could argue against that when some very fine 'Finescale' models have been built with scenery in graduating scales to force depth perception! I believe it was Iain Rice who pointed out that 'Finescale' was not about the wheels and track as they were to to a set standard, but to the high levels of detailing put into the layout to make it as believable /realistic as possible. If you build A highly detailed 00 railway is is deemed Finescale: Build an identical version, but with P4 track and that is also deemed Finescale. I believe the standing joke in the G0G is that although the model railway is built to 7mm FS standards, the scenery is built to S7 standards. Instead of the recurring whine about Finescale track, which it cannot be but is just built to a set standard whichever scale/gauge combination you adhere to, let us get onto the far more important issue of when we should be applying the term Finescale to the rest of the railway in question. Does it pass the Finescale test because of that home etched fencing you lovingly crafted, or does it fail because somewhere you bought in some Greenscene ballast chips instead of going out and crushing your own, or using some rtp Peco fence posts instead of cutting your own Finescale fence posts from custom milled timber? Now where can I get some rtp 1.5"gauge finescale track to represent 18" gauge at 1:12 scale?
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