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Everything posted by MrSimon

  1. It looked in quite good external condition on Thursday - no flaking paint like the Tram that’s in there
  2. I feel your pain - Maybe all new topics/threads should say what gauge they are so we don’t keep clicking on OO gauge threads by mistake…?
  3. So it’s not a fault… How annoying. I get why we have adds but if they get too regular or I have to arse about I’ll stop coming. I’d go ad-free for £20-£30 a year, but I’m not interested in the rest that comes with Gold/WOR+ so I’m not getting it. I don’t think I’d browse as much in this brave new world.
  4. I don’t want the full VSOE set or only be able to buy large packs. Maybe just a pair of brakes or 2-3 parlour/kitchens would be sufficient. Even to run the VSOE the K types must couple reliably to Farish Mk1s because there’s usually at least one in the charter set next to the engine - maybe even mk2s depending on what’s being used a a support coach?
  5. Great that these are coming out - would be interested to see what the options are - would be good to have some 2 packs for modern rail tours where they can be mixed in with other types. Also, they must run well with Farish MK1/2s and Mark 1 Pullmans.
  6. Hello everybody! Here’s the elegant motor mount I lashed together for the Jinty. It turns the wheels which is the main thing I was worried about. When the epoxy is dried I’ll pretty it up a little (which will involve insulating tape and rizlas) then I’ll temporarily solder the wires to the chassis and take it for a test drive! The motor is fully removable (on its mount) but you’d never think to look at it… Lots to do! Simon
  7. Hi Mike, The wheels come in pairs too, so you’ll only need 3 driving wheels and 2 + 3 carrying wheels (or 5 carrying wheels if they’re all the same size)… unless you’re buying two loco’s worth? Hope that helps Simon
  8. Wasn’t the Kenny Belle specifically a train for the massive post office building at Olympia - if so would the first class compartments be for management?
  9. I guess to some extent it depends on the quality of the pictures and description - I’ve picked up some bits over the years where I’ve had to take a punt on what it actually is (not always successfully) based on the description. End of the day on eBay it depends on whether many people are willing to bid, and what advice they receive from the eBay thing that recommends a start price…
  10. Hello everybody! I thought I’d had a reasonably prolific summer of modelling, then I came to update this and realised that I hadn’t photographed much and barely updated this. So here’s a round up… Firstly - I’ve still been doing some N! Here are a JJA and a HQA kit, these have progressed a little further but still have the majority of the painting to complete. There’s been a lot of 2mm work: I went to see @justin1985 and gave some of my wagons a test on his layout - mostly to see if I’d got the droppers right on the couplers. I had! He also fixed the terrible job I’d made of putting the 4F back together so I could start to finish it off. Below the footplate on the loco is pretty much complete now that it’s working - next job is to switch the replacement tender chassis over and wire it up, then it’s all cosmetic. I bought the wrong handed driver to drive a 4F, so here’s its fireman (awaiting a bit of dirt and matt varnish) I also finished the L&Y 060 chassis, and painted it. I’ve now completely run out of things to do instead of finishing the body (so now I’m just avoiding the tricky jobs left at the front end in the hope it’ll randomly finish itself off) This weekend I built a Fencehouses Jinty chassis, it needs a little fettling to bring the front wheel under the front splasher (and I’ve got a motor on the way) - like the 4F it’s just cosmetic work remaining once it’s motorised. Gave me chance to do Cif+Drill which is my favourite part of 2mm chassis building. Finally I had a go at converting an old Chivers blue spot van, it has small functional chassis within the Chivers W iron/axlebox, I then repurposed a pair of clasp brakes and a crank from a different chassis kit to give it brakes. I’ll see how it looks once it’s painted but I think it’ll do to run in a train. Lots to do! Simon
  11. It’s not really much of an enlarged catchment area - it’s a short drive to Loughborough/Quorn from Nottingham, from north of the city it’s probably easier to get to the GCR than to Ruddington
  12. Hi @2mm Andy Did you get any further with the jinty? I’m just starting mine and was looking for pictures of the completed chassis (something to aim at, etc.!) How much did you take off the splashes? Many thanks Simon
  13. Hi all, I finally started to make the changes to the tandem point and I think it’s looking much better. The B8 side (top) was unchanged but then everything on the other side moved along a bit. This time I built the new crossings first then joined it all up in the order Jim (I think) showed. Still to add are the curved blades and check rails then I’ll check the gapping and see if I can run it. Final thing to do will be to cut the timbers to length. No Blu-tac was harmed in the rebuilding of this turnout. Cheers Simon
  14. Also, union mills are made of super hard metal which makes them much harder to drill handrail/lamp iron knobs into. It’s so-able and they’re good-ish models, but they can be detailed into really good models if you have adamantium mini drill bits…
  15. The 8Fs are looking really good - which kit are they? Many thanks Simon
  16. Is Saturday also the order deadline for the gypsum containers?
  17. Is there any news on this? Expected delivery keeps moving back
  18. Thanks all, It was tested quite a bit before I soldered the washers on, it had the plastic on for a while before I plucked up the courage to solder the washers onto a different chassis - it ran well so I thought it would be ok to solder it too… I fitted a new crank pin this afternoon and soldered together a new rod. Then when I put the new rod on I think I identified the problem: the rod is slightly too long between the front and middle axles - when the other axles are at half past the front was ahead slightly. When the rod was curved up and only stuck in the front and rear it ran perfectly (so possibly not the quartering) Is it something really basic like I’ve got the rods on the wrong sides? Many thanks Simon
  19. Hi all, Is this a quartering issue causing the pin to come out, or simply because the pin became unstuck? I’d just fixed the other side and was trying to work out why it didn’t run with the loco wheels on the track… It feels like I can rotate the wheels too much - is this normal? I don’t have many new Bachman steam engines (it’s a 4F) so wasn’t sure if it was helping it run poorly? Thanks in advance! Simon
  20. Thanks Jonas! I’m really pleased with how the underframe turned out - hats off to Dapol, there’s just enough relief to make it work
  21. Hello everybody! After the marathon transfer session last week I’ve been able to finish off the class 142. All that remains is to (maybe) change the destination to be not in Wales, and add Northern transfers - I haven’t found anywhere that does them so they can wait. Cab view: the black rubbed through to the yellow underneath was accidental, but I like it so it’s staying. I’m going to neaten up that yellow on the headlight! Yesterday I painted the underframes, it’s a mix of Phoenix dirty black, brake dust and framedirt, and Humbrol Metalcote Gun Metal (on the springs and exhaust) The side views I didn’t weather the roof much, just a bit of dirt in the panel lines and grills, and some exhaust. So there we have it, a simple repaint for a livery not offered by Dapol. The repaint doesn’t stop the model being a slightly funny shape, but it looks enough like a 142 for Gresby… Lots to do! Simon
  22. Hello everybody! I’ve had a bit of a quiet few weeks, but yesterday it didn’t stop raining so I had a big transfer session: Unit/carriage numbers on the 142 and both 101s, and transfers on the Boplate and LMS van - took ages! Today I sealed all the transfers and weathered the two wagons (the LMS van needs some more work). Over the last few weeks I’ve also transferred this and fitted the load straps. I gave it a final weather and a spray today, I think I’ve only got 2-3 left to do. The LMS van needs some work around the door/runner and vac pipes & couplings fitting. Finished Boplate, just needs some wires on the couplings, I’m going to sort out loads when I do the rest of the train. Maybe now there’s a load of things finished I’ll turn attention back to the L&Y tank! Lots to do Simon
  23. Hi, sorry I zoomed into the picture and had another look. I think the stop strips already screwed onto the jig - it’s hard to tell from the picture but it looks like there’s a sort of ridge that will stop the sleepers falling out, that should have screws holding it in and is the stop strip. The other straight bit is for the straight rail. Hope that helps? Simon
  24. Hi Mike, I seem to remember only using the straight bit for the straight stock rail then I took it off and used the shaped template for the rest of the point and I used the button gauges to place the straight line of the vee. Alternatively, have you tried it all ways up/ways round? My jig was second hand so I’m not sure if the previous owner added extra holes. Good luck! Simon
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