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  1. The blue Piko HO 4 wheeler coach looks interesting in the light railway picture, the second coach from the front. How well does the buffer beam height and distance apart from each other match that of 00 stock like the Ratio coach in front of it and the RTR locos like green Jeom ?
  2. Hi Mark For a sheet metal rolling pad instead of a phone book you could also use an Ikea catalogue or a Screwfix one?
  3. Some changes since the last picture, a coat of paint showed up all these faults. I've remade the spectacle frames and aligned the tops of the front footplate join just behind the cylinders. A bit brutal but careful manipulation of the outer edge of the footplate, that's pressure applied with the fingers. This step has taken ages to begin to make and glue on sceptical frames. Using the materials shown in the picture. Some electrical wire was stripped of it's plastic cover then wrapped around a drill bit, held in place with cellotape and then with a very sharp knife
  4. The last photo of the engines above is the Isle of Wight 2-4-0 Bonchurch No18 was built by Beyer Peacock as a standard type and sold all over the world. It's wheelbase is exactly the same as a LNER J72. 6'9" + 7'0". So a Bachman model may do as a start or for a larger engine with bigger wheels perhaps one of the Bachmann Pannier chassis?
  5. Some quick work with a craft knife and file to cut back the central box lip will quickly back date them to grease boxes. Maybe a sliver of plasticard or filler on top to give each box a sloping top to suggest the flip-up lid for miniature railwaymen to add an extra dollop of grease.
  6. 2 1/2 inch wide bottle, unusually skinny for a wine bottle......so I'm told. Older pre-grouping prototypes of carriages and vans require an even flatter curve to their rooves, a much more tee-total affair. Looking for lager glass vessels to heat-form a plastic roof about needs one somewhere in the 4 to 5 inch diameter range. Usually you end up using pickle jars although once I a had a smooth sided tin can that a beer kit came in. As a Midland modeller do you have any idea of making an early Pullman style clerestory roof with rounded ends, my last plastic attempt went b
  7. Hello moderator. Or Andy. Or any one. For the last couple of days I can't upload any picture files even ones I've uploaded before, They are all under 400KB often much smaller. Is it me and my computer ? Are the RMweb server hard-disks full ? A window opens offering advice "P1010003b.JPG could not be saved. Please contact us for assistance." Thanks
  8. The body is only attached to the footplate by screws. Allowing for easy modification or swapping parts around. I've lowered the Bachmanntanks and boiler unit by cutting off about 2 mm from the underside and made it look fatter by gluing on layers of plasticard with some rivet detail pushed in. Reshaped the cab cutouts. The saddle tank is a Hornby Percy sitting on the Bachmann chassis and footplate.
  9. Well thanks for the enquiry Gibbo, the 0-4-2 project has not got any further, mainly because I can't sort out the tender drive. And other problems like the chassis is warped, it has been elbowed down the waiting list by other projects like the 4-4-0 on the right and the 4-4-0t which I shall concentrate on. First coat of paint evens out all the different colours of plastic and shows up the imperfections,pass the filler. Whistle cover wonky, those spectacle rims need improving. These close-up pictures are cruel critiques. A quick size comparison,
  10. I always have trouble with Cambrian wagon kits with exact floor position or height in particular. That is Cambrian's older design before the one piece floor and W-irons. So when I thought I'd just do a quick wagon whilst the latest big loco project is drying after a wash and being prepared for painting. Not so fast, parts missing I must have taken them for another project that's the trouble with kits that have been hanging around for ever, parts get raided for other projects and I forget so it's a surprise when starting some unmade kit it's not all there.
  11. I'm holding here a little red tin of Evo-Stik solvent free impact adhesive bought in Wilkinson's IIRC. A 250ml tin. It is a white glue maybe a PVA type and seems pretty good and claims to stick anything. I know someone who sticks white metal kits together with it. It is runny and easy to spread over a flat surface. May it that will be kind to plastic kits too. To resuscitate the plastic platform edge have you tried either a very coarse file to grind back the rough dry glue surface or glue some rough grit sandpaper to a block of wood so you can sand the plastic back to a m
  12. What size where Westinghouse pimps? The air pump for train break systems common in the early days of railways. If this loco was built in the 1880s that is after automatic train breaks where a legal requirement and an operational help with better stopping. Some railways went for the vacuum break and others for the Westinghouse air break. My model represents a loco on an air break system so requires a pump. In the photo above it is on the front of the water tank here I put it on the side of the smoke box Isle of Wight style. In an old drawing by F C Hambleton one is show at just over
  13. Smoke box door this is using the moulding from an Airfix/Dapol City class I need to file off the circular backing rim leaving the small dome centre with it's hinge detail intact. This will provide a small door suitable for this little tank loco. One of the most useful home made tools is this elephants nail file or emery board, good for filling flat thin plastic or white metal castings. It's some rough sand paper glued to a length of 2 x 1 inch timber. PVA white glue is ideal. There is a finer grade grit paper glued on the other side. The n
  14. These little loco's and their owners the Lynn and Fakenham where quickly absorbed by larger and larger railways and ended up in the Midland and Great Northern Railway and survived into the 1930s. There were seven of these, the one in the photo with the old Pullman coach had been lent to the Midland Railway for trial push pull trains. You can try and unpick the complexity here https://www.lner.info/co/MGN/locomotives.php A loco like this would be realistic on any imaginary light railway or industrial network.
  15. How to modify cylinder angle maybe? The area between the two dotted lines is a plastic saddle that holds the two cylinders. Above and below are two metal chassis extensions, coming forward from the main chassis and it's all held together by a vertical screw indicated by the arrow. The cylinder saddle could I suppose be filed to an angle and packed out with washers or a wedge shaped piece of plasticard and securely held in with that screw. A mechanical modification that some may be confident to try to get that inclined cylinder Metro tank Beyer Peacock look. Althou
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