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  1. More chops, one from the back burner a sort of Highland Railway 4-4-0 tank built by Hudswell Clark ? Midland and Great Northern Junction Railway number 10. The Highland railway also had one and there was one on the Isle of Wight network in it's heyday. Not an Airfix chop but in the same spirit, this is a fusion between Tri-ang and a USA Bachmann that comes with nice cylinder representation. So the blue Triang has an extended footplate and I'll try to fit a smaller boiler.
  2. Not so much a chop as a steady nibbling away of plastic body parts and filling down metal parts until they all come together as one whole. The resulting loco will be of the sort of size of a an early 4-4-0 of about 1880. I'm sort of after a Furness Railway Seagull 4-4-0 or LCDR Kirtley M type both examples of successful early 4-4-0 much smaller than later types like the LMS 2P. I have posted a drawing somewhere on Rmweb but can't find it. This Airfix 2P was in a bad condition when I got it. It was blue with a face and missing the sides to the splashers. I've cut new ones using those compasses as circle cutters and super-glued them in place. Nearly got the new boiler to sit level.
  3. Add the LED lamps one at a time, then operate points and see how well they shine as the CDU recharges ?
  4. How many amps does this unit put out, around 1 A ? Is that enough for all the work you are asking it to do. Ant chance of a wiring diagram to give us an idea off how you have set it up. How far around the bus bar is the signal. How is the signal moved or lit, a solenoid or is it just LEDs?
  5. It might be easier to change the door? Stage one remove the door frame giving a few extra centimetres. Make some sort of plug door that swings completely out of the way or a sliding door. Increase the size of the doorway and add a wider door. If it's a stud wall that's easy to do as it's plaster board and timber to cut away. If it's masonry wall then it's harder and a new lintel will also be needed to support the above wall.
  6. Leave the layout boards as they are but devise a new storage rack that holds them on their sides so it can be trundled through the door?
  7. All is revealed, that cast mazak-metal lump shown a few entries above. Did anyone recognise it? It's a cut and bashed Airfix 2P 4-4-0, I'm slowley making it into a small 4-4-0.
  8. Hack saw and file time, the process of fitting a body to a chassis Watching the development of 3D printing bodies seem pricey compared with buying old plastic bodies or white-metal ones, what ever turns up 2nd hand at shows and swap-meets. So I've got this tank body, guess it's a Ks bodyline kit for a SR/LSWR G6 shunting engine. Seems to fit quiet well around this old Hornby/Wren chassis which also came a bit worse for ware from a swap-meet with no motor but 20mm Romford wheels and broken coupling rods. Hence the hack saw and big file treatment to get it to fit up inside the body snugly with the buffers at the correct height. Fit mark and file, try the fit and file again. I've got a narrow Branchlines gear box and motor I will try to fit that as it will only require a little bit of bodging and filling to make room for the narrow gearbox in the chassis? This particular set up was for motorising a Airfix Stirling single riding on a Tri-ang Caley single chassis, it sort of fits but never worked so has sat neglected in it's boxes for ages.
  9. I've assembled similar 2 stage gear boxes and guess the procedure is the same for them all. Once the brassetch is folded into a box and the bearings soldered in add the wheel axle, then the inbetween axle both with there gears on and check they turn freely. Then the motor and worm, and I would elongate the motor holes downwards to allow the motor to be lower slightly. Just a little at a time. Another idea is to check if the worm is the correct one for the box, is it fat enough and is not miss-supplied?
  10. See this thread over at GWR modelling, a saddle tank conversion by Rosiesboss to a small 0-6-0, The Hornby chassis was a special for the Toby model I believe. /community/index.php?/topic/72460-gwr-1331-ex-whitland-cardigan-0-6-0st-project/
  11. The end of the spring braking off is common in clockwork mechanisms like these and clocks. The spring has to be extracted and a new loop or hook made. It is spring steel so the end to be worked on has to be annealed first so it is flexible. That is the metal end is heated to cherry red and allowed to cool. Then then a hook or loop attachment can then be formed. Only a little bit of the length of the spring strip is lost. Is there a collector and repairer of vintage Hornby clockwork models here who can advise ?
  12. Gradient and radius of curves are the two factors affecting length of train able to climb up it seems to me an outside observer of the world of spirals and helix. Alternative is a giant helix with the layout climbing around the walls and the return downward run can be shorter and much steeper. If you have the room. Spiral climbs are often promoted as a compact solution to doubling the area of the layout, a way of getting trains up and down between levels. I think the idea comes from over in the USA where big basement layouts have the room to allow spirals with easy radius curves and genial gradients which don't tax the locos much. Me from here will just watch any developing debate as I don't have room for anything except a short terminal to fiddle yard layout. Hang on thinking about it I could perhaps could get a radius one curve helix in the corner connecting several terminal baseboards. especially if the spiral can be quickly packed away ? If the trains struggle to get up they will end up on the bottom levels and just light engines on the top.
  13. A Fairlie ? Is that motor peaking out from the cab door a chassis from one of the small Bachmann USA Bo-Bo models? What scale is it ? Nice bridge. What
  14. Who can tell what this is. You will have to have high nerd model railway ability to know. It's some sort of chassis block, cut down waiting for some more sawing and hacking. No prizes for knowing. This illustrates the danger of looking for some detailing stuff chimneys and domes or a safty valve turnings you rummage through boxes for stuff and find old half done and forgotten project. For example this half done long boilered 0-6-0, a plastic shell sitting on top of a US model chassis. As the plastic solvent dried out the footplate went banana. Seems OK now I had broken the sections apart and reglued with Super Glue which does not seem to have caused distortion even after a few years. The cab is not fixed yet. Spanish style loco ready for cleaning and painting, the tender still needs some work. It hides a heavy metal Brawa shunter underneath. Not many Hornby chops here except the cab which came from one of the USA versions of a Polly or Nelly type,
  15. Corona China virus lock down has somehow locked down the old brain cells and modelling has slowed down. So here is the little progress that has happened. I can get the splashers going on the Spanish style long boilered 2-4-0 so I've cheated and used some from the footplate of an old and scrapped Airfix prairie tank. You only get two so I've cut them in half and I've now got 4 half splashers. They were rescued from the foot plate by cutting down the sides and incorporating the depth of the footplate into the sides of the splashers. Now they are not so wide and you can see the tops of the wheels, perhaps a thin strip of plastic ocurved over the top and meeting the sides of the boiler will do the job. The top of the pony truck could be built up to block that daylight, the tender has turned out a bit big for a 4 wheeler but that sort of follows the prototype. Underneath it hides the massive metal weight of an early Brawa shunter model. A hook and loop coupling has been made up from paper clip wire. So now the loco runs and with that pony should be able to get around train set curves.
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