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  1. A some what belated reply to jburgt Scale drawing of the Bachmann chassis block, here fitted with 12mm wheels the original comes with 18mm diameter wheels. Since we are here a progress report on the Hudswell Clark card body. None. Compared to the earlier plastic model which was just a get-it-to-look-right model I was trying to make an accurate one. There are many discrepancies to get the body to fit the chassis block, as these added up to a less accurate model I sort of lost interest and the card was getting tatty it is no way as robust as plastic or metal. With normal handling corners are being bent, sides squashed and it's not going to be very heavy which will effect running. This has all discouraged me and it went back into it's little box.
  2. Yes, this is entirely possible. https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/149610-airfix-chops/&tab=comments#comment-3902259
  3. Surely you mean 1890s vintage ? A lovely example of one of the most typical types of engine on British Railways, big in it's day but tiny by the 1930s. By comparison with newer engines. Once a mainline engine later a small loco pottering around branch lines. I've never placed mine next to the new models of similar classes of these engines, the Hornby of Oxford Rail Dean Goods or Hornby J15. For a size comparison I bet the O1 is the smallest. I never noticed the screw in crank pins. They blend in OK I bet they are invisible at half a metre, don't worry.
  4. I've run out of plastic strip so have used coffee stirrers to build up suitable timber baulks. Using PVA Everbuild 502 Wood Adhesive I've glued the stirrers into pairs. This make of glue in it's handy yellow squeezey bottle and nice dispensing cap which seems to keep the air out of the bottle and not get bunged up with dried glue. Makes it easy to apply the right amount. The label says it cures in 10 minutes but I leave it over night before I do anything. Then trimmed and sanded to the dimension that seem right for the model, 4mm by two stirrers thick. Wood to metal bonds made with superglue. Based on some photos of old tanker wagons I've built up the wood to support the tanks. Parts are random from some table top sale of odd bits and broken wagons back in pre-lockdown exhibition days. I've got a couple of tanks, this plastic one is I think a Triang TT scale one. Tank fixed in place with an 18 by 3mm self tapping screw. The chassis is an old Hornby I think, metal, I've cut various protrudencies off and the old couplings, this was a converter wagon it had Triang on one end and Hornby-Doublo on the other. I'll change the wheels later for finer scale metal ones, I've got none in stock at the moment. Still to do strapping details and end baulks. Parts in preparation, bottom left hand corner some timber which is 4 stirrers thick.
  5. Thanks to Jim for the pictures of these prehistoric tanker, small and old. I can build a few more ancient tanker wagons for the fleet, my criteria is that they have to be different in size and shape to any current RTR models. Since most tankers seem to be painted black the outline shape is the important criteria to go for. Since by the 1930s the tanks where built up to the loading gauge anything representing older prototypes would have to be noticeably smaller. Looking at the old photos here above and I think the Bristol Docks Railway or Devonport dock railway can't remember exactly, this is an exercise in combining chassis and bodies to make new wagons.
  6. Good to see a completed kit. I guess it's the Golden Arrow resin body kit on a Hornby chassis. Is it with the big old motor driving the front wheel or later type with a small motor driving the centre wheel. With mine the main problem was bubbles in the resin which need to filled and sanded even. I later replaced my centre wheels which had rubber traction tyres, with ones from another Hornby chassis with metal tyres and full depth flanges.
  7. Big Steam. It's all be done before, imagineering and discussing the types of locomotives that could have been. In this case to carried on improving the timings of West Coat trains between Glasgow and London. How to get more power than and haulage traction than the last big loco the Coronation class pacifics. From 1971 The Railway Magazine page 83 and O.S. Nock's article on improved west coast steam superpower. This example uses a post 1940's King type boiler, eight coupled wheels, a streamline casing and a large eight wheeled tender to avoid having to use pickup water troughs at speed. It comes with a good pedigree of imagination of practical locomotive men who worked in the age of steam.
  8. His Lordship has a new locomotive, for the garden estate 2 ft 3 inch narrow gauge line. If Her Ladyship can spend her allowance on cattle breading and ridiculous great bulls form far away he can spend the estate allowance on something practical. Although perhaps an 0-4-0 or six couple tank would have been more practical than a replica of the new mainline singles now speeding with the finest expresses west from Paddington he has always admired all that rich green paint and shiny brass work. When the telegram arrived telling his Lordship of it's arrival up at the junction he bagged the inspections brake and organised a special trip goods up the line to collect it. Here it is being brought into Arkwright Mills yard by a mainline loco and will be collected by one of the light railway engines for the final trip to it's new home at the estate. Fortunately the new red brake van has arrived from the coach builders so the expense of hiring the GNR engine can be set against the need to bring down the new brake to the yard. How practical is a single wheeler for a small narrow gauge railway will we see. It is of course an old die-cast Lesney model made in roughly N gauge long before N gauge had been invented, I guess the small scale was waiting in the modellers collective subconscious, waiting for the development of small enough motors to make tiny moving trains possible. Here in the photo it is riding on a re-vamped Hornby-Dublo metal flat wagon. With some plastic break gear and Bachmann miniature couplings added. Now it's here it's looking decidedly second hand, perhaps a bit of touching up the paintwork before Her Ladyship get to see it for the first time. I've just measured the loco it has 11.2 mm gauge wheels, or at least outside the flanges so a little bigger than N ? The GNR saddle tank running the trip goods is a toned down Hornby 1980s very shiny J 52 in Great Northern livery. Some matt green on the wheels and two coats of Humbrol matt varnish over almost every where else and some half black, half silver on the coupling rods give a toned down look compared to the factory shiny chrome look. The two brake vans are part of my enthusiasm for small breaks, the compartment one is based on a LSWR prototype and adapted from an old Mainline model and the red one is a proper scale model, scratch built body on a widened Lima H0 brake van chassis. The drawing can be found on the Plymouth and South Western Junction Railway website. https://brucehunt.co.uk/plymouth devonport and south western junction railway/pdswjr goods stock.html Waiting for transfers and varnish
  9. The loco has gone to the paint shop, a clean dust free margarine tub and is already in basic grey. So this photo is now an historic record. Some work still needs to be done, a few corrections to tender. That gap at the bottom of the tender side where the metal meets the black base of the tender. Some sort of railing or door at the loco end. This is based on a Midland Railway tender which had two vertical stanchions on the front foot plate to stop the crew falling off. The coal load, where every one has been giving me advice on how to hide the motor. Working on this model away from any other meant that I had lost a sense of it's size or scale, it seemed to be to big. Not to worry, compared to this 20th century 0-6-0 it is definitely a small Victorian era engine.
  10. A type popular overseas but never caught on on British railways a long boiler 2-4-0. Robert Stephenson built many long boiler types for the Continent and other British locomotive builders sold then too. This is a model of a Sharp Stewart standard built for the Spanish railways. Seen here with a LSWR T9 maybe on the long branch line to Padstow down in far Cornwall. Maybe SS where trying to sell some as suitable for the long cross country line in the rolling hills of the West Country and it was undergoing trials. Also trying out the built up tender, a short type seen in Australia. After all British loco builders of the time sold across the globe. The T9 seems to awaiting repair to it's clack valve. As a model the 2-4-0 and it's tender are proper scale models to 4mm scale so it can be accurately compared to the slightly bigger T9. They are all built from bits and bobs, a Tri-ang cab, Lima and Airfix boiler bits, a metal chassis meant to motorise an Airfix Pug, etc, etc. Such a loco when on a free loan from a British builder hopping to sale some un-bought stock and get it off the books could have lent it to a home railway, as a chance to flog off a loss. Such a little loco could have pottered around some branch line for a few months un-noticed by any railwayiac photographer of the day and escaping history. Just distracting myself before a visit to the dentist.
  11. Still have the little Spanish Style 2-4-0 to finish. Pushing to finish this tender for ages but could not think of a way to make a curved top edge, trying several schemes to cut strips of tube which ended up with wonky edges so they would not sit straight. Then noticed this edge on a pop top freezer box. several makes are available check edge styles for modelling possibilities. This make of plastic freezer food box with a pop top lid the curve top edge is just right for a 4mm tender and it is easy to get a straight cut by sliding the knife along the flat side of the box. No makers name on this box but you can use it in the microwave. Close up picture reveals the ugly truth, gaps at A and S shock me to realise the end piece is slightly wonky. The harsh reality of close up photography. The coal hole is anything but square. There staying like that, they will be invisible when the tender is coupled up behind the loco. The thicker white plasticard top allows for a little step at A and C which gives good location for the curved strip. Back to the 4-4-0. First attempt at spectacle plate windows edges, by cutting tiny strips of plasticcard but this green variety has broken apart, too brittle perhaps ?
  12. Developed a system to have the white metal tender top be removable, a soldered on tongue of metal that fits in the slot made by Airfix in their rear buffer beam and a screw at the front up the link to the loco. All the white deposits are from the acid flux I used, the little yellow pots by Power Flow from a plumbers shops, even after the parts have been washed the white persists. It can be rubbed away later with a pot scrubber. Soldered some off cuts of w/m along the sides to attach the coal mound to later. The second tender was another loco drive adaptation, intended for my Tri-ang 3F to Midland Johnson 2F. Another 90 % finished model which got abandoned for some long forgotten reason. Whilst looking for parts for the 4-4-0 I found it and maybe will finish it if I can find that missing wheel set. These tenders are from the old Ks Midland spinner kit, they seem to turn up second hand now and again.
  13. The worst job in model railways is handrails. Trying to match the little posts and cleaning out the holes breaking drills, handling stuff which is too tiny tiny to pick up unless you use tweezers then they ping off somewhere lost forever. Which glue to use, matching the drill size to the wire, remembering how to use a Vernier Calliper to measure and compare thickness. I think these handrail pillars are Alan Gibson they needed cleaning up and the holes opening out with a 0.3mm drill for my bit of wire. How they manage to manufacture such small items in the first place is amazing. The details are almost to small to see.
  14. Manage to catch some sunshine which is always the best light to show detail and close ups. With spring coming along nicely my photography window, more time as the sun shines on that side of the building more giving more time with good light for photography. So some more views for yous. The die cast loco, although crudely moulded see photo of the front footplate and buffer beam for example. I think it has potential and some careful filing down of things like that hump over the buffers might give a usable model, cut some windows with a mini drill and grinding wheels perhaps? Looks like a Hornby chassis could be made to fit just cut off that metal lump ahead of the motor. ++ The white metal kit in close up, space under the boiler. Again the Hornby chassis if the metal lump is cut off could fit, perhaps some more surgery to it, file down the top to go under the footplate. I had thought of converting this one to a Johnson Midland railway tank, the one with the lower side tanks around the cab doors and narrower side tanks. Possible, maybe. ++ The red plastic bits are the remains of an old project to convert an early Triang Jinty into it's narrower Johnson predecessor, as you can see it did not work. The plastic is a very hard one that resisted the normal polystyrene kit glues. A Triang R52 body again. Seeing it cut up like this reminds me of an argument about introducing new plastic loco kits like the original Airfix and Dapol continuations, whilst there are plenty of second hand bodies around, these cut be cut up and the bits turned into new types. Consider them as a kind of kits.
  15. More tender progress. Found it, the tender not the meaning of life, still looking for that. It was right by my elbow behind a little box at the side of the workbench somewhere close by but I did not expect it to be there so I looked every where else but there. Now where is that pin chuck so I can do the hand rail holes. See the inside of the corners.... there are support strips that are part of the molded sides. To clear these and get the original weights up inside I have had to do some trimming and sawing. Still has most of its adhesion weight. Next step is to devise a way to fix the metal top to the plastic chassis. The weights are held by screws to the motor and lower half of the tender, the original Airfix way of fixing. There is a second tender conversion from my abandoned Midland 2F, which is where I stole the weights from, some earlier raid has also taken one of the wheels, this is the fate of unfinished and stalled projects they tend to get raided for odd parts now and again and can be whittled away. How to fix the upper metal tender top to the lower plastic chassis, it must be removable for maintenance.
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