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  1. Here is my set up, a £10 Lidl pillar drill stand and a small 12v drill. I've got these old style Romford wheels that need drilling to take crank pins. There are just shallow blind holes provided. On the piece of wood, I have two more of the wheels, the small one is held done with a tiny screw but can still rotate. So how do I hold it more firmly? Am I just too hopeful about the chances of such a set up drilling the crank pin holes accurately? What sort of crank pin set up is best for upgrading this old Trinagchassis, drill and tap to fit current Markits screw in pins or will bits of wire do?
  2. This sketch is of a Robert Stephenson loco built for the New South Wales Railways out in Australia in the 1860s, and over the following years similar locos were built on this basic design because it was so useful. I've based it on a weight diagram of a later model found on page 73 of Locomotives of New South Wales 1855-1980 Volume One by Alex Grunbach. A great source for information on old steamers. I'm contemplating a model of it because it is a long boiler type that became extinct by the early part of the 20th century and so unusual compared to the normal RTR models. A long boiler type meant that the rigid wheel base was completely under the boiler and the fire box hung out and over behind the rear driving axle. This type was abandoned for being unstable at higher speeds say over 20 mph but was retained on mineral railways because their short wheel base and large boiler meant they could haul heavy loads around tight corners. What do you think of my diagram which is drawn with an 00 model in mind, can I get the two rear wheels close to the middle pair with 00 flanges? Where these Australian locos similar to long reboiled industrial types used in the UK?
  3. Some people mentioned the American switcher style loco would seem a bit to big for an industrial branch or light railway. Here it does not seem so bulky when next to a more conventional type here an SECR O1 0-6-0.
  4. After taking all that to add backhead detail it is rather irksome to see it disappear under a layer of black paint. So using gel pens with metallic ink I've picked out the highlights. Although a little crude when viewed through the cab windows gives just a hint of the backhead detail.
  5. This problem seems to have the little people nearly as perplexed as me with how to fix the wheels. So far it has been harder than ever I could imagine it could be. Gluing the metal wheel stubs back on using a home-made gauge block to keep them at the correct distance apart I found it was best to do one wheel at a time. Glue one in with super-glue and hours later or the next day fix the other end with Granville's Threadlock as it gives you more fiddling time. Super can set before you get everything into place and check which is not good, or not get a wheel at the right angle. On the second pair I over did it with to much super-glue and squirted some down the central plastic tube section or the axle and had to drill and dig out the surplus with a sharpened screwdriver. They now all roll through these code 75 points and I'll give it 24 hours for the glues to harden up and I can put them back in the chassis block and see how they run? Cracks in nylon or white plastic still visible at 1 and 2. Added a day later, now I've tried it out the news is not so good. The wheels turn but the running is wobbly may be that some replacements will be needed after all because without some sort of jig getting each wheel stub lined up correctly and attached to the centre axle tube was not as easy and accurate for me as I had hoped.
  6. I've also had this problem with the split axle J72s, both the early ones with pancake motors, where they by Palitoy and the later Bachmann ones with the in line motors. I look forward to the new ones due any minute now I hope they have metal axles. The problem seems to arrise with other Bachmanns models using the split axles system. Here is the wheel set from their 0-6-0 USA switcher or shunter. The first of my pictures shows the splits in the front and rear axles which have also come loose. the centre geared axle seems to be OK and has remained solidly fixed. What to glue them back together with? First I degreased them with lighter fuel and decided to superglue them back together and not use the weaker Granville Lockthread which is meant to stop your nuts dropping off vibrating engines, cars and old motorbikes. I've got my home-made back to back gauge there to hold the wheel stubs in place as the glue sets. It's made from layers of balsa wood and cardboard and is set to match the fixed bear axle so it runs through my PECO code 75 check rails. We'll see if this repair holds up under running conditions?
  7. No its an 0-6-0, here's a side view of it, When the cab interior is finished the rood can go back on and its awaiting buffers to change it to UK use. This model can come either as an 0-6-0 a 2-6-0 or a 2-6-2, just by the addition of pony trucks, there can be two tenders from Bachmann both bogies a square one and a slopped back one.
  8. I'll do anything it seems to avoid modelling problems so to avoid doing problem window frames for­ the signal boxes I got this loco out to finish its conversion. Its from the cheap H0 Bachmann range based on a USRA First World War period switcher. An Internet search shows prototype locos of this type from the American manufacturers Baldwins and ALCO built between 1913 and 1953 as switchers and short distance road engines. Such a loco could have ended up on a UK backwater industrial line especial if it was obtained as cheap war surplus. Cab enlarged downwards so 4mm crew can fit into it, Fred here is 21mm tall not including his paving slab. The Lima Cronk now has buffers some couplings need to be fiddled onto it likewise buffers and coupling for the steam switcher. The tender is from an H0 static loco of a French type, it's short and replaces the long bogie type that comes with this model. Some plasticard strips and rectangles glued onto the backhead as crude detail. My high-tech height gauges down on the left. Some strips glued under the cab for a bent paper clip U shaped draw-bar. Red and white plasticard cut to shape to make a new chassis for the tender.
  9. There is much talk of super-large possible mainline locos here such as 4-10-2, mallets and super pacifics. At the other end of the scale are shunters or switchers as they are called in the states. Its from the cheap range from Bachmann H0 which seems to mean it only lacks valves gear. I think it is a USRA switcher from the 1918 to 1920 war period probably based on an already developed ALCO product. A quick internet search shows something similar dated 1913. If the big railways in Britain like the MR and GCR could buy American built locos such a loco could have ended up on a backwater railway in the UK like my industrial loop line, especially after the WW I period as cheap war surplus. The long bogie tender seemed too big so a smaller one was adapted. Reg the fire lighter is just over 21 mm tall for comparison, the cab height is deepened and a front buffer beam and buffers are being added.
  10. This little shed was started many years ago, probably aeons as it has had time to yellow with age. Made before the Evergreen period of moulded and grooved plastic-card to represent planks. Each grove and plank detail was laboriously scribed by hand. Probably why I never finished it the roof seemed even more a challenging difficulty. So it has remain just four walls and a floor ever since its beginning. Until recently when I needed a lamp oil store for my little shunting layout and finding some embossed slate roofing plastic sheet at a club sales stool it seemed I had everything to finish it. You have to cut out the stripes from the plastic and glue them on separately to get the tiled effect. A door was made and fitted from a rectangle of grooved Evergreen sheet or siding as they label it, nail detail poked in with a sharp scriber to show the zigzag position of the inside framing and I found a window frame from a Cambrian Southern brakevan kit.
  11. Back at the saddle tank, I think these larger wheels suit the model better, I've got a set of 8 but they are the old style with wider treads and bigger flanges, that's OK but I will have to drill out the crankpin holes somehow, any advice on how to do this. The smaller one is 18mm diameter and the larger about 19.5 mill.
  12. Here's the small signal cabin from earlier on this page, I'm still fighting shy of trying to make the window frames. Meanwhile, I've painted it with Humbrol Railway cream 103 and whilst I had the wagon red I tried to paint the corners and gutters. So how do you get the edges of the paint straight ? all advice welcome.
  13. Carried on from post 25, painting the round ended wagon, which is roughly based on a Great Western 3 plank open goods wagon. This is the 3rd attempt at the red colour. First try was a dull orange Revell 85 matt, too orange, 2nd try was the Revell orange 85 matt plus some dark brick red from Humbrol 70 matt. Still very orange. This photo shows Humbrol signal red 60 matt and the brick red which dulls down the signal red a little but only use a tiny amount as this is a very strong colour and can easily overpower the brighter signal red. An historical note this red is a very old tin but keeps going, I wipe the lids and rim clean before pushing the lid back in which ensures a good airtight seal.
  14. Hurray, I'm looking forward to Bachmann TTT range becoming available, lots of modelling fodder there. Here are two of my conversions from the Not-Thomas engine called Billy IIRC. Both on the Thomas chassis which is a nice runner with 18mm wheels. The blue one is made more realistic to my eyes, plasticard sides to widen the tanks and the front buffer beam cut off and raised up. The green saddle tank number 3E is a Hornby Percy body on the Bachman footplate and chassis. Lots of modelling potential.
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