Steve Williams

Having finally used my last can of Testor's Dullcote, I'm looking for a suitable alternative in the form of a ready to use aerosol, as it would appear to be no longer available in the UK. I understand that some of the alternatives may be prone to 'frosting' and some may be not truly matt. I have heard good reports of Krylon, but have not yet tried it. Any and all opinions welcome.

Many thanks. Got it sorted now. CV267 was set at 90. I needed to change it to 185 to get four chuffs per revolution. I had just assumed that as it was a soundfile dedicated to a particular model, it would be pre-set. However, after a quick call to Digitrains as well as reading the info above, it seems that some tweaking is still required. It now obediently chuffs as it should! I shall know for the second one.

I have just finally got around to fitting a Dapol O Gauge Terrier with a zimo decoder and one of Paul Chetter's sound files. Now I notice that on his demonstration video on YouTube, and also on the factory fitted version (also shown on YouTube), there are four 'chuffs' to each wheel revolution. On mine, however, I am getting eight 'chuffs' for each wheel revolution. I am just wondering if maybe a particular CV has been misconfigured, and if so what the correct setting should be for the appropriate CV? If anyone can shed some light, I would be most grateful.

Many thanks (Only just seen this!) :-)

Norman, Just seen this thread from way back, as I am dipping my toe into O Gauge decoder fitting. When you say the Resistors are already attached to the LED light bulbs, are you saying that each LED has its own small board with resistor attached at the location of the LED, or is there one central board from which all the LED wires originate? Thanks in advance. Steve

DLIBOD17 I don't envy you having to detail all those buffer beams. I needed a lie down in a darkened room after just the one!

Don't know if anyone can clarify this for me, but looking at the attached photograph, it shows the roof sections of the Bachmann prototype Deltic and the Accurascale one. Both fitted with DCC sound and both configured so that number 1 end is to the right. However, in my copy of British Rail Main Line Diesel Locomotives', the diagram of the roof section shows number 1 end to be to the left. I'm using the ports on the central roof section as my reference as that area is one of the few that is not symmetrical. Have both companies got it wrong, or have they both got it right and the book author got it wrong?

I wondered if you could do it just using your hand controller and the programming track. As I mentioned above, I just use my Powercab.

What DCC system are you using?

Indeed, it probably is, but manual notching down is F27, so I have to press 'Options' twice before I can access that function on my Powercab. I normally swap F27 to F5 on my US sound locos, as F5 is usually some auxillitary lighting function which I don't use. However, on the Deltic project F5 is 'Drive Hold'.

I just did it with my Powercab.

Yes, I have changed the CVs as directed on their website, and it all works fine. I can now reduce the engine revs, so it appears to coast, and then disengage F5 and it slows to a halt. I did initially miss out the changing of CV31 & 32 the second time and wondered why nothing had changed!

Well that's something I wasn't aware of. I presume you are saying that the option is there in the decoder software if the project designer chooses to incorporate it into a specific function? I've yet to come across a sound project that has used it. Most of my sound locos are US models.

No, there isn't a braking option as such . However, I think F27 gives you a coast option and it can also be simulated by toggling F5 insofar as F5 can be activated whilst running and then the throttle turned to zero. This gives a coasting simulation. Toggling off F5 with the throttle at zero will then bring the loco to a halt, the rate depending on what braking inertia has been put into CV4

That's interesting. I was going to try mine with a slightly increased start voltage, although sometimes I have found that speed step 1 is then too fast, which would seem to indicate that it's not a weight issue, rather just a the mechanism being a bit stiff. I think it's Zimo decoders that have a sort of kick-start option which is designed to overcome the initial inertia issue.

I am not 100% certain on this, but doesn't the Powercab give you the option to turn off DC when you go through the initial set up stages (Option 1) when you enter programming track mode).

Whilst accepting that my loco hasn't been run as I don't really have the space for that, I have upped CV53 to 120 and may try it at 130 tomorrow, and I did find that there was some improvement. I use an NCE Powercab and when set to 28 speed step option it's pretty smooth at speed step 3 and certainly OK on speed step 4. For inertia I usually put in 100 for CV3 and 80 for CV4 when using Loksound decoders.

There is an Autotune facility with ESU. Normally you set loco to forward direction, have a length of straight track )I find around 3ft is enough, set CV54 to 0. Hit F1 and it should set off like a scalded cat and them come to a rest. Give it a test run and if necessary fine tuning can be done by setting CV53 to 120 and then work up or down until you get smooth running. It is advised that you make a note beforehand of CV51 to 56, in case you want to revert. However, having said all that, F1 starts the sound on this model, so I am not sure whether it will work or not. Maybe someone with more knowledge on this matter may be able to clarify.

A similar solution has been used by Atlas on some of their US locos. The chain is attached to the body and is a push fit into the bogie side-frame.

It would. However, the problem is that the surface area for adhering, is so small I do wonder whether it would be sufficient to hold items in place, as by the very nature of tacky glue, it has some degree of malleability.

Yes, that was a great help. I think fitting the piping would have been virtually impossible without the facility for removing the buffer-beam.

Yes I did see that. It was very useful. There is also a page showing which version one needs depending on the model purchased. It's the actual method of securing that I have issues with. I hope they do give this some thought with a view to possibly improving the securing of the parts. I do wonder how many people will end up making a pig's ear of fitting these, which would be a shame, as it it really is a cracking piece of kit and the team should be commended for it.

I would be interested in observations with regard to fitting all the buffer-beam detail. Personally, I found it very fiddly as there are no location holes, merely recesses, thus they have to be glued in place. As these parts are the most vulnerable on the model, if they get damaged and need to be replaced (assuming these parts will be offered as spares), then it's going to be far more problematic than pulling out a damaged pipe and re-inserting a replacement.

That would be like micro-surgery!

Blimey! It was a nightmare trying to get the very end of the chain held by my tweezers. I can't imagine being able to hold the end and re-locate on the end of the hanger AND attach glue. I think ninja elves must do the job at the factory!