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WillCav

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Everything posted by WillCav

  1. Hi Clive, You could have colour light signals for some main line areas in your era - if you want semaphores (I think they look better) then the company who ran the railway when it was last resignalled will determine the types of semaphores. Generally - GWR areas would be lower quadrant and others would be upper quadrant. The design of the signals and signal box are important to help locate a model. In terms of positioning, you need to protect junctions from all approaches with home (red rectangular with white line) semaphores. Most model railways aren't big enough to need to have the distant signals (yellow / black fishtail from 1920s) unless it is the distant for the adjacent box. The problem with signalling design is that it is a bit of an art and it depends on the track layout and the operability required. The pway signalling etc forum on rmweb can assist. Regards Will
  2. I model 1948 so any white roofs (stopped in WWII?) would be quite weathered by then. I have some stock with bright white roofs painted before I knew better. When upgrading, I weather or use grey but try and vary it a bit. There are photos on the forum of coach roofs where the white is weathered very differently at one end to the other (eg autocoaches that always had the loco at the inner end). Will
  3. That makes me feel better - I wasn't 100% sure that I had the ride height right, but you have used the same solution. It was a bit of a shock having to do this after swapping Mainline Siphon G bogies was a 2 minute job! Thanks Will
  4. I think you are right about reflections / over exposure. I was thinking that the lettering could be smaller than 5"? Difficult to be sure. Definitely painted in the 1936 to 1948 period. Will
  5. Craig, The ends are interesting - original flat cross bracing with top corners removed to make 'space' for the later double bonnet vents. Contrasts with the later end fitted on the V33. Thanks for posting the picture. I might have to try and build this (I'm waiting for an order of Mink Ds that I can cut and shut for the ends/roof/underframe). I'm guessing that the roof isn't white but is reflecting light? Shouldn't be white with post 1942 lettering. Regards Will
  6. Andy, I think it's a difficult one from that angle with only part of the side visible. It would be an open verandah type originally as it has the 'ledge' where the top of the sides was - closed verandah types (like tunnel vans) didn't have it. The panel under where the verandah was is metal - A lot if early Toads had wooden planks there but many had metal sheeting added later on so it doesn't narrow it down at all. I thought that the bufferbeam shape would help (rectangular the same width as the end) but it turns out all Toads seem to have this type - you learn something new every day. So - sorry I can't be much help. I wouldn't even want to say 20' or 24' length but more likely to be the latter due to build dates and longevity. Will
  7. Hi Pete, Where abouts in Wales and what timeframe? Different companies pre grouping and grouping. Different regions post nationalisation but now all Wales part of the same Route. Sorry to ask more questions rather than answer yours, but I think it needs narrowing down to give you what you want. Thanks Will
  8. Hi Sidmouth, The bogies are more GWR like on the airfix/mainline Siphon G and H but it still has the earlier DC brakes so would still need some modifications for the later types of Siphon G. GWR did have palethorpes vans but unfortunately they were 6 wheel vans and the Lima one is fictional. Regards Will
  9. Glad to hear that it's all in hand. Will
  10. Paul, Looking forward to seeing this layout being built - an interesting idea. One observation - are the retaining walls and the low wall by the ferry a bit close to the tracks? You might want to check the clearances by running some stock through before everything is fixed in place. Especially, check the curved line on the crossover as the ends of a long vehicle swing out wide and may hit the low wall. It could be that it's an optical illusion and all is well but I wouldn't want you to have problems later and have to re-build. regards Will
  11. Hi all, I thought this would be a quick upgrade project! I got a bargain diagram O33 Lima Siphon G at an exhibition last year. When I got home, I checked what GWR.org say on it - incorrect bogies - well that should be easy. Looking in the Siphon Bible by Jack Slinn, it could be one of four types with 9' Pressed Steel making up 75% of them. Many of them were converted to other types after WWII so watch out for that. O59 is easy - just add shell vents x11. M34 is shell vents + plated over Louvres. The Lima body has wider planks than normal. There is a side on official photo of 2937 with this arrangement in Russell's Coaches Appendix volume 2. It also has a different brake arrangement (lever v Lima's DC brake) but has the Pressed steel bogies. So my course of action is Rebogie Modify undergubbins Repaint I got some Bachmann 36-010 Collett bogies and first reduced the length of 16 footboard to be just footsteps. Problem 1: I then realised that the mounting arrangement was different. So I removed the middle pivot of the old and new bogies. I added two small 40thou bits of plastic under where the pivot meets the side frame on the new ones and then glued the Lima pivot under that to get the height right. Problem 2: Lima used 3' wheels whereas Bachmann have the correct 3'6" wheels - the new wheel flanges scrape on the floor of the Siphon. I cut out some serious chunks of floor out to give the wheels somewhere to swing - making sure the floor pivot wasn't affected. Problem solved The bogie at one end now fouled the DC brake handles - it needs to go anyway. If you are modelling one of the earlier DC brakes versions, I would suggest using shorter bogies like the 7' wb heavy types on 2057-2070. Remove the DC brake and move the dynamo to the other end. Add a V hanger from the spares box and add a couple of lever brakes - with shortened levers. I made the shorter still to prevent the bogies damaging them. Repaint - as 2937 is a 1945 build, no white roof, and roof colour to gutter, not rain strip. Square blob of plastic for the label clip right in the middle of the side. Transfers - this type have tare weight 26.11.0. I thought it would take an evening and it probably took three - not perfect but a reasonable "layout coach" for about £20. Shown here with the original Lima above. Just noticed I need white brake handles and blue axlebox tops! Thanks for reading Will
  12. Thanks for your responses Mike and Fatadder, Mike - are Maurice Early's photos available online? I've had a look at Fatadder's Centenary coach conversions and they look really good. It's a shame that wartime brown is not an option. I think I'll try chocolate/cream on a spare body before I start attacking a Centenary. Thanks Will
  13. Hi all, When I was young and didn't know any better, I bought a rake of Dapol Centenary coaches (2 x D120(R) Brake 3rds and 4 x E149 composites) and happily ran it round and round as the Cornish Riviera. Now I am older (and hopefully wiser) I realise that this won't do. I am modelling early 1948 and by this time, the Centenary coaches would have been cascaded down into lesser services - so I plan to spread the coaches around. I am thinking of converting one of the E149s into a C69 all 3rd with etched sides (this looks quite easy as the doors can be retained) but I am worried about painting Chocolate/Cream. I have read on the excellent gwr.org site that during the 2nd World War, some 'more prestigious' stock was painted in a paler red-brown - would that apply to Centenary stock? I'm not expecting there to be photos to prove it as there was a war on. Many thanks Will
  14. Where a trains consists of 2 or more units coupled up, if there is no corridor connection, you need a guard per unit. Will
  15. If you're going to have a YG distant followed by 3 aspect then RG 2 aspect, the thing to watch out for is braking distances. There needs to be breaking distance between each signal. I'm guessing the 3 aspect junction to 2 aspect station starter is shorter than braking distance? If so then you need the distant to be Y when the station starter is R and have the middle signal R stepping up to Y on approach. Modern versions of this problem may be solved by having a very short 4 aspect sequence. Will
  16. Hi 57xx I've just finished a Siphon C using the Ratio 4 wheel brake third as a basis for the underframe. I don't put much detail underneath so I'm not the best person to answer you. I just used the Ratio V hangers etc as directed and added a V hanger at each right hand end for a DC level. I would guess that the linkages go from there directly to the central(ish) Vacuum V hanger. Both linkages would have to be on the side away from the gas cylinder as it gets in the way. When you're ready to add transfers, the Railtec transfers for Siphon F/G have small Siphon (F) lettering that fits in the tight space required - I used an edited 'O' from Siphon G for the 'C'. Will
  17. There's a couple of GWR departmental vans that I could use as mess vans: https://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/gwrdeptcoach w96 on page 1 is a ratio 4-wheeler with duckets removed, reduced footboards and hand brakes added http://penrhos.me.uk/Eng.shtml#80919 80919 also looks like a modified 4-wheeler Although they're not the actual mess coach used in 1930s, they are legitimate departmental stock - and easy to cobble together - and I haven't got any 4 wheel coaches in the stock list yet. Will
  18. M.I.B., The images I've found are copyright so I'll try and do links: Weed Spraying Train W82 with mess coach W82 closer up spraying Closer up still On board The last photo shows them spraying with the tank behind the spraying tender and a toad behind that - I'm guessing the other photos were publicity shots to show the tenders and regular usage was with a toad (which makes sense as you can then put a tail lamp on and spray in traffic). Will
  19. Are you planning to add a mess van? Looks like an old clerestory coach in photos. I agree with the top and tail Toads for transit moves. Do you know how they did the spraying? Spray wagon leading or trailing? Will
  20. I haven't put any transfers on yet. I think it's going to have to be a custom order from Railtec - they do up to 18 lots of up to 20 characters (max 2mm high) "TAUNTON DIVISION" & "W82" on one set and "WEED SPRAYING PLANT" on another for less than a tenner (and 3 trains worth) - I'm more worried about the ex-oil tank that carries the nasty stuff, that has a faded Corey's Fuel Oil on the side - not one POWsides do! I may have to hand paint that and weather it to hide my poor signwriting skills. There seems to be a number of variants of the weed killer train - I did the one with three tenders but no cab structure. The smaller tenders were easier as I used the City of Truro kit as a base and could alter the parts before assembly (spare boilers for wagon loads & boiler houses). I put top hats in and metal wheelsets, not thinking about curves and 6 wheel bogies - so it can only move on straight track until I come up with a solution. I also need to check the photos carefully as I've learned that early tenders had straight backed coal spaces and I've put slopes in - every day's a school day! Will
  21. Hi MIB, You've done a lovely job with that almost empty tender. I did a few for a weed killer train and I share your pain at getting the angles right. Will
  22. Update - I've used the Railtec transfers and the smaller Siphon F text fits live a glove. I've used the other Siphon F transfers with a bit of an 'O' as a 'C' to improve my Siphon C as well (roof still needs fixing). I've never used Railtec transfers before and I found them easy to apply. The only issue is that I had to cut a few Tares up to make the correct 22.11 weight for the American bogied versions. The 18T is from the HMRS transfers. I think the Railtec ones are a better colour. Will
  23. WillCav

    Signalling Swan Hill

    Kit, There are a few important things to think about with semaphore signal boxes. Location: it needs to be in a position to be able to see the tail lamp of the trains as they go past before giving line clear to following trains. It also needs to be next to the road if there is a level crossing and close to the points it controls. Modern design is 350m max for manual operation. Signals can be considerably further as they are lighter to pull. Size: if it looks too small for the location, it will look wrong. It can be too big as the company would design in some spare levers - or the track could have been rationalized leading to spare levers. Heritage: the architecture should match the company or its predecessor- same with the signalling. Operation: 2 identical layouts could be signalled in different ways due to the operational requirements. If you need to share platforms (say, pilot onto back of train) then you need calling on signals whereas if it were units only, you don't. Think of all the moves you need - including run rounds and engine releases. You need signals for all of these ideally. In 7mm, you can do the point rodding and signal wires. Don't forget expansion compensators. Good luck with the signalling - it is hard to get right as there aren't many resources about the subject. Hope this helps a bit Will
  24. WillCav

    Signalling Swan Hill

    I've been thinking about signal 3 and the crossover. On the real railway, you would want to be able to shunt the crossover whilst a train is heading towards the terminus. There would likely be absolute block in place between the signal boxes and the last signal at box B would remain 'on' until the block section and 440yds beyond the first home signal are confirmed clear through the block instrument. So as well as your offstage distant, you need an offstage home signal 440yds before the crossover. The only thing this will influence on your model is the number/colour of levers and the diagram in your signal box (if visible). Regards Will
  25. WillCav

    Signalling Swan Hill

    On top of Rich's crossovers, I would pair 11 with 19&20 on one lever and have 17&18 on a second lever. The distant signal has to be braking distance (100s or 1000s of metres depending on speed/gradient) from the first stop signal so doesn't appear on most layouts. If you really want one, have it as a worked distant on the same post as 26 controlled by the next signal box (for trains leaving the terminus). Hope that helps Will
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