WillCav

The Castle has a second row on the nameplate probably for Castle Class. Looks like two words above - first word longer? My guesses is Viscount Horne 5086 or Viscount Portal 7000 based on name shape alone. Will

Mike, I eventually got round to my E145 conversions and used the trick above - really easy - thanks Here's the 1st one re-bogied. The only issue I had was the toughness of the plastic. I drilled the corners out to make it easier. Thanks again for the tip Will

Thanks Ian, I didn't know about them - I'll have to get some of their transfers. Unfortunately, scaling the transfers from the 25" and 16" G W on the same sheet, it looks like they are regular size writing which wont fit in the triangular gap I have. I'm thinking of using the Siphon F transfer from Railtec and making the C from a spare O in Siphon G. Will

I've just received a package from Railtec. The SIPHON F transfers have been reduced in size. I'll have to finish my model and try them out. I've checked the size and they will fit. Thanks to Steve from Railtec for being so helpful (no link except very happy customer). Will

I can't find anything written down on this. I've only found pictures of diagram CC2 Pooley vans in GWR days. One photo from the 1940s has the monogram, the signwriting doesn't look white and the body looks a lighter shade than the frame. so I'll stick my neck out and say I think they were brown. (Ducks quickly and runs away) Will

Update on transfers: I tried to do the Siphon C with HMRS transfers close together and it doesn't look too good (roof needs work as well) The good news is that Steve from Railtec is planning to update the Siphon F / G transfer pack in 4mm and put in a compressed Siphon F in the pack. I'll post pictures when I've got them and used them. (No links to company). I know I could have kept both as Siphon Fs but 2 were scrapped in the timeframe I model, so I decided to try the conversion. I am loving Lofty's Siphon selection - get a few Siphon Cs and you can model the sausage train from Calne to Newcastle! Thanks Will

Thanks Mikkel, That was the thread that got me thinking about increasing my banana van numbers. I'm planning to build a Y6 using a Parkside Mink D as a base. When that's done, I'll have 5 banana Vans - which I think is a reasonable number to run together. Will

If you think about when the real railways were built, the points were gathered together in a small area for the railway policeman (now signaller) or 'Bobby' to operate. When signal boxes came in, the points were operated mechanically - the further the point, the more effort to swing it. There aren't these restrictions on modern signalling but if the points were put there in 18?? then unless there's a good reason, replacement points will go in the same place. So short answer - yes, nearer the station is usual. It also helps with capacity as a train waiting for a platform can be closer to the station as the signal can be closer (especially in 4 aspect signalling areas). Will

Thanks Il Grifone, The Siphon codes were off and on at different times. The few photos of my era seem to show the Siphon Fs with the codes being there so I'll see what Steve from Railtec can come up with. Regards Will

Thanks CoY, Was that on the K's kit with the stretched middle panels? I've cut'n'shut mine by a few mm so I have less space to fit it. I did have 2 Siphon Fs - I got them before I knew there were only 6 of them. One has new been converted to Siphon C. Since I ordered the 3mm transfers, Steve from Railtec got in touch and he kindly checked the sizing of them for me. Even the 3mm ones are too wide. Steve is looking at what can be done (thanks again Steve, for your help if you're reading). Regards Will

Hi, You're lucky to have such a large space to build a layout. The problem with the narrow shelf arrangement is that you get a very rectangular track plan. Don't be afraid of having track not parallel to the board edges. Another few suggestions - does the headshunt by the double slip need to be longer, you need the same length behind the double slip as the longest siding. Good news is that the track design provides trapping (runaway freight in the depot doesn't end up on the mainlines). Add some wider intervals between the tracks. Standard arrangements usually have a wideway (or tenfoot) every other track for worker safety - it also provides space for signal posts. Look at your photo at the top, the bridges need a wider intervals too. Is than minimum radius track at the corners - if you can ease those, you will get fewer derailments and smoother running. Think about operability, presumably you want to get a freight (clockwise on outer line) into the depot without having to reverse it. Same for exiting. You might need to add / reverse some crossovers. Do you want trains terminating at the big station? Make sure you can get from/to the appropriate lines. You don't want to be running wrong way for too far as it uses capacity on the real railway. Hope this helps - I'm not trying to be critical, just want to help you make a layout that does what you want it to. Regards Will

The gap I've got for the transfer is about 6mm wide and full size transfers are about 8mm so hopefully Railtec 3mm will be the solution. I've taken the plunge and ordered some. I'll give them a try and let you know the outcome. Thanks for the encouragement Will

Hi Fatadder, I will write about it when I've done transfers. Essentially, cut'n'shut the sides between the middle of the 2nd and 3rd set of doors. The Ratio 4 wheel brake has the right wheelbase but is slightly too long. It's not as accurate as the brass body kit that Shirescenes offer but I had a spare Siphon F. Just realised that Railtec do that sheet in 3mm - might work possibly? Will

Thanks for the suggestion - I hadn't thought of them. Unfortunately, it looks like it is the same size as the 'normal' size Siphon G, H & J font. Will

Hi all, I've been modifying some old K's Siphon F kits, one becoming a Siphon C. On the full size ones, the Siphon branding is squeezed into a triangle of wooden framing. The HMRS transfers only have normal size writing which won't fit. I've looked on POWsides and Railtec websites and they look too large. Does anyone know of any transfers that will fit? Any ideas? Thanks Will

The side door area looks much better and the pile of boxes looks very natural. Will

Others on the forum will be able to tell you exactly what dairies were on the route from Penzance. Too early for MMB or Unigate or St Ivel or silver tanks. It will be the colourful liveries / united dairies white. 4 wheel milk tanks or 6 wheel or a mixture may be an option for you depending on exact date. The 6 wheelers stated to appear in 1931 and the 4 wheelers disappeared by WW2. You will also need some Siphons and a full brake to complete your train (and a loco of course). Will

Connor As it is a passenger train rated vehicle (Brown, or with XP lettering), it has to have automatic brakes - and for GWR, that means Vacuum pipes. As the end doors have a fold down flap to form a ramp over the buffers, it has to be a dangly down type, rather than the usual one with vertical metal pipe going above the top of the bufferbeam. I hope that makes sense! Will

Hi Adrian, The earliest 5 plank wagons had equal planks. Later diagrams had a wide 11" top plank. Later still, the wide plank migrated lower down (top plank more likely to be damaged?) 11" planks were hard to get in WW2 so new builds then had 5 x 7" planks and a narrow one. Some 5 planks had the same when bodies needed repairing. Opens are a minefield with so many variations and modifications like sheet bar removal, sack truck door and diagonal bracing types. Good luck Will Edit. Just checked - the Slaters open is an early O4 5 plank open. The Minerva is a later O11. Both were made in large numbers - the O11 has brakes compliant to the RH lever rules so no need to changes to brake gear later on. Both are 9' wheelbase 16' wagons so they wouldn't have lasted as long as later types with standard RCH underframes. W

The point rodding and cranks all look really great. So often people either don't bother or add them later without having planned it. Are you going to have working signals as well? Will

From looking at mink photos, that's what I thought - so thanks for the info. The opens all seem to be central in photos, unlike the diagram in Atkins! Thanks Will

Lovely choice of building. Looks really good. Will

Excellent advice. I am researching the O11/O15 and V12/14/16 types at the moment as there seems to be some uncertainty as to where the V hanger should go (central / slightly offset / more offset) on somw types and Atkins is not that helpful in this instance. I have too many DC1 braked vehicles thanks to Cooper craft's instructions too! Thanks Will

Really atmospheric - I especially like the wooden platform. Will

Thanks Mikkel, I took the plunge last night and started to remove the offending strapping. It was a lot easier on the Ratio sides than it was on the Copper Craft ends - must be a different form of plastic. I'm feeling more optimistic about it now. Will