Pugsley

Erm, thanks Mikkel :icon_redface: I suppose there are some parallels between what I do and proper art - it involves using paint to try an fool the eye that it's looking at something different to what it actually is, if you see what I mean. That's it now, I can tell people that I'm a 3-D artist - it sounds a bit cooler than railway modeller!

With TFMP being out for the day, I've been able to crack on with this little project all afternoon. I go through phases with this, sometimes I really get into it and can achieve a lot in a what feels like a short length of time. Other times I don't really 'feel it' so get distracted, and don't achieve much at all. The second side is just about there now, I think. I've highlighted the panel lines with dark grime washes, and added the rust underneath the door hinges with powders - a mix of Mig Vietnam Earth, Black Smoke, Industrial City Dirt and AIM Grimy Black. I've added some rust wash from the exhaust on the roof at the front, again using gouache - it really is a wonderfully versatile medium. The masking tape depot plaque worked again, although it nearly ended in disaster - I hadn't noticed that I'd put the Metals flash over the corner of it, so when I removed it some of the transfer came away! Luckily I managed to retrieve the part, so managed to stick it back down with matt varnish. Work will now commence on the ends, although these are straightforward compared to the side, so I may even have this finished this evening! I need to make myself some sort of photo plank, now that I've no layout to take pictures on. It'll be a useful exercise too - there's some techniques that I want to try out. I think I've hit upon the next project already.

The GM three car sets were 150 133 to 142 - below are the numbers of the intermediate cars added: 133 - 52218 134 - 57218 135 - 52222 136 - 57222 137 - 52224 138 - 57224 139 - 52223 140 - 57223 141 - 52225 142 - 57225 HTH

A little more, much the same as before. The tank spillage needs a bit more work, I'm not entirely happy with that bit yet, but everything else is coming on nicely. The underframe has been done in much the same way as before, but this time I tried using raw umber gouache to tint the Tamiya Smoke for the oily bits on the underframe, instead of using the gloss tan. It's worked rather nicely, so that's another combination of materials added to the arsenal! Next stage is putting a bit of grime and rust in the panel lines, and reworking the fuel spill area - maybe more progress later. The exhauster boxes need a little attention too, both on the top and the sides. OMS - http://www.last.fm/listen/globaltags/ghetto%20jazz#pane=webRadioPlayer&station=%252Flisten%252Fglobaltags%252Fghetto%2520jazz

Yes, I think I'm going to persevere with the blog format, in the hope that modifications to the software in time allow them to become a little more integrated with the main forum. I had to put an index in there, I normally flit from project to project so it would get quite confusing without it! You could do something similar on a conventional thread by continually adding to the first post, I suppose.

Hi Paul, I'm not sure what has happened to it TBH - it was bought by a member, so hope it should appear back again at some point. No real progress on the layout as yet - I've done the baseboard fettling I needed to do. Once the 09 is complete, which may not be too much longer, it'll be back to the pointwork again. Once I've finished all the points, I'll start tracklaying.

I agree - the blacking has given the effect of neglected rods B) That Scale Hardware stuff is fantastic!

Apparently the 2700 DMU bodyshell is more closely related to the 323 EMU rather than the 158, but your version above definitely looks the part - from normal viewing distances most people aren't going to know that it's not 100% accurate.

Hi Rob, No, I haven't resurrected the topic as yet - most of the construction detail are on the old site though: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?p=349519#p349519 and http://www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=76&t=29258 HTH

Yes, I think you're spot on there - if you considered how far away you'd have to be for a real loco to look 4mm size, then you'd be have to be quite a long way away from it and probably such a distance that you'd not really notice the imperfections much. I think that there may be a case for it in 7mm scale, and definitely for scales larger than that - it's certainly something that I've seen armour modellers do in 1:35 and above. I like your idea about the Mk1 - perhaps something like tipp-ex applied with a thin brush to represent the ribs could work? Peter - apologies for taking this even further OT!

Aha, the holy grail! I should imagine it is rarely modelled as it is extremely difficult to do convincingly, particularly in 4mm scale, and I would go as far to suggest that it would be impossible (and not really required) in 2mm scale! I've seen it done on a couple of US HO models though, including one stunning Railbox boxcar by a guy called Butch Eyler. Although ex works locos are glossy, I don't think a full gloss finish works well, especially not in 2 and 4mm scales - you might just get away with it in 7mm scale. I think the a finish on the glossy side of satin could well work. I'd agree with James and WW - a coat of varnish, shadows in the grilles and a bit of dry brush highlighting of surfaces that would catch the light (top of grilles etc) by dry brushing a lighter shade of the base colour. I'd also consider painting the underframe a slightly lighter shade of black - true black never looks quite right on a model, and adding some touches of brake dust. You could go to town on the underframe by doing further dry brush highlighting of that as well. I think that convincingly representing an ex-works loco is quite possibly the toughest weathering challenge - it requires a lot more work and thought than a heavily weathered loco in many ways.

Wow, thanks everyone - I wasn't expecting such a response to this B) Phill - I dunno about rubbish, that 47 you did recently looked really good. I genuinely think that most people can do what I do - the biggest thing you have to learn is how to interpret photos, and work out what you're looking at. The techniques you then use to replicate that are almost incidental. There is also normally more than one way of doing something, too. It's something that comes with practice - I've learnt a lot since I did the 50, above.

Wow, I'm not quite sure what to say to that! At no stage did I ever imagine that I'd have inspired one of the most renowned modellers in the hobby. I'm glad I have though, I put my stuff here in the hope that it inspires others, and it's nice to know that it does. I must point out that the Tunnel Motor is nothing to do with me - it's by a guy called John Pitts, it was just one of my biggest inspirations. I will do a Tunnel Motor one day, just to see if I can do one as well as that, but that's a long way down the 'tuit' pile

That new building looks much better there - far more imposing, and in keeping with the rest of the buildings to the rear of the layout. The previous building looked a little lost there

This new blog format has deluded me into thinking that people may be interested in the reasons behind what I do, the inspirations and how it all started, really. They probably aren't, but I'm going to do it anyway It really started with the introduction of the Hornby Class 50, back in 2003. I'd had a model railway before, but sold up in 1993/1994 to start modelling US prototypes due to the superior models available. That too soon fell by the wayside once girls, cars and beer were discovered. The 50's were a firm favourite of mine from the days when I lived near the GWML and saw them regularly, and then from bashing the Exeter-Waterloo line in their final days. The release of the Hornby 50, to a higher standard than the US models I had, was an eye-opener, so the first releases were duly purchased. I was originally approaching from a collectors point of view, but soon realised I wanted more. During the time of my interest in US modelling, I bought Model Railroader every month, which was full of inspiring articles - it seemed light years ahead of Railway Modeller at the time, every month they'd have the 'Trackside Photos' section, where there would be some ultra realistic photos, similar to this: http://www.modelrailroadphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=3764 There was also the annual photo contest, which took these photos to another level, with superb modelling and photography. http://www.trains.com/mrr/image.ashx?img=mrr-tp0108_01.jpg&w=600 I wanted to achieve that kind of result, but railways soon got left behind. Once I rediscovered them, eventually I rediscovered this quest for realism as well, which happened around 2005 and is what lead me to both EM gauge, and weathering. I started searching around the Internet, and happened upon a couple of very interesting sites. The first was Mellow Mike: http://www.mellowmike.com/ Amazing models, and very realistic. He's comes across as a bit up himself though (the old site wasn't as bad as the new one for that!) - no details about techniques, but plenty of inspiration. He is very good indeed: http://www.mellowmike.com/FR8_Cars/MRL50036_P1.html http://www.mellowmike.com/FR8_Cars/MRL54035_P2.html http://www.mellowmike.com/FR8_Cars/SOO_4Posed.html Inspired by what I found, I then discovered the Model Trains Weathered site, and forum. Now subscription only, I learnt a lot in terms of new materials and techniques, and the members there were very good at constructively criticising what I'd done. http://modeltrainsweathered.com/ It was there that I learnt of the work of a guy called John Pitts. His structures were amazing, but what really captured my imagination, and inspired me to have a go, was this SD45T-2, in proper Southern Pacific condition: More pictures here: http://www.pbase.com/lumixfz30/abandonedreabuilding I then subsequently discovered some military modelling sites, and the models of Mig Jimenez, amongst others, which really leads me to where I am now. I think I'll leave it there - I should imagine anyone who started reading this has given up by now I leave you with this - my first attempt - it wasn't bad, considering, but I realise that both the techniques, and definitely the photography have improved an awful lot. Hopefully this has been of interest to somebody. :icon_mrgreen:

Thanks Nick. If you want to do one that's nicely weathered, but a bit scabby, Brian Daniels' Fotopic site has got some really good photos here: http://briandaniels.fotopic.net/c1757981.html

Thanks for the kind words everyone B) James - Yup, I bet you are the only one to study the cab roof closely Wayne - Not sure what the next project will be yet, I'll be starting on a 455 soon, so it may well be that. I've plans for 58019 in suitably grotty condition as well at some point.

As is kind of hinted at by the title, I'm pretty happy that I've finished the first side of the 09. It's just been a matter of adding the the little details with gouache and powders, so again it won't look much different to last time. The masking tape depot plaque seems to have worked as intended, a bit more gouache washes and powders in this area have made it look as it should. The trickiest part of this phase was the marks on the battery box where the BR arrow had been removed. Again using goucahe helped with this, as I found it really difficult to get to look convincing. I think this is attempt number 4 - the rest were wiped off with a damp cotton bud as I wasn't happy with them. I've made a start on the front, but that needs a lot more work yet. The cab end and other side need to be done next. I'm really pleased with the way this one is turning out - I think it might be the best one yet!

That's a brilliant, and somewhat surreal reason - love it! B) Perhaps we should see who can come up with the most random tags on the forum...

Seconded.

I'm not entirely sure what the Brachlines chassis offers TBH, it was just the only option that I was aware of. I should imagine it's not really any different to the version that you plan to repower yours with.

Thanks for that explanation Mike - it looks really convincing.

That is stunningly lovely B) I especially like the coal and water spill on the back of the tender - how did you do that?

Yes please B) I'm an even more amateur bodger I've found I've used my mill more than the lathe so far, but I'm sure it won't be that way for ever. The lathe is almost new, so shouldn't have the problem with a bowed bed, and was all quite accurate when I set about it with a dial gauge and test bar when I first got it. i should check it again really, as I've moved it since then. Like you say, it doesn't really matter what you do as long as you're enjoying it!