Jump to content

Mark Forrest

  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Mark Forrest's Achievements



  1. I’ve done several of these and had no trouble getting the springing to function as intended. What type of bearings did you use? It’s best to use the waisted bearings as the end that protrudes through the axle guard is much smaller - even with those I tend to file the ends down a little. In the rear of the replacement axlebox I usually drill out as much material as I dare with a 2mm drill, then elongate the hole to form a vertical slot. I always pop the wheels out and remove the bearing carriers before gluing the axleboxes in place. Hope that helps.
  2. Nice work on that Vanwide. Regarding warped sides, I'd never considered that painting the inside might help, interesting. Whenever I build vans I routinely add some internal bracing, which also seems to prevent the problem, for example:
  3. Nice build up of grime in panel gaps and around hinges. Before doing any more to the ends, I'd remove those steps; most (all?) would have been removed from the prototype before a blue & grey repaint.
  4. Previous thread on the same topic: Personally, I’d go for the Parkside kit or wait for the Bachmann one if it needs to be RTR.
  5. Interesting project and a promising start with both the planning and locos. Good luck with it, another one to watch.
  6. Depends of course on your definition of a big exhibition, but Stafford, in its new bigger venue, is (hopefully) the first weekend in February.
  7. Mine was lit entirely from the front; made a L shaped beam from a couple of lengths of MDF architrave and stuck the LED strips to the underside of that.
  8. I have used two strips of LEDs in a similar setup, one warm, one cool; with a dimmer attached to enable me to fine tune the light to how I want it. Personally, if I was going to choose one it'd be cool as that suits the look I go for on my layouts
  9. Fair point, in my defense, in my excitement I just grabbed a link to a photo of an early body 25 at Inverness. Differences between 25/1 and 25/2 are largely in the electrical equipment, the potential for confusion comes from the fact that 25/2s were built in both the early and later style bodyshells. It's common for modellers to refer to early body as 25/1 and late as 25/3, but that overlooks the most numerous subclass which was a mixture of both body types.
  10. Have you seen the latest SLW announcement though? I'll just leave this here...
  11. That really is very nice indeed. So far, I've resisted a 24 (although must admit if there was a suitable LM allocated one available at the moment I'd be tempted), I was unable to resist the 25 though. I keep threatening one of my Bachmann 24s with a Silver Fox bodyshell (cab donor) and a razor saw, but know I'd never get close to the standard of an out of the box SLW. Any thoughts on a number for yours?
  12. Now the paint has dried, a couple of photos in better light. Still some work to do on the sleepers. Overall I think the Metal Cote Gunmetal has worked well, although might benefit from a bit of light dry brushing with some rust.
  13. That's enough reminiscing about my misspent youth; it's back to the buffer stops for tonight's job. As I think I mentioned before, they are deliberately subtly different. The LNWR one (closest) was painted with some Humbrol 173 (track colour), then given a light dusting with some rust red and dark grey powders. It doesn't some clearly in the photo, but the powders have given it a bit of texture. The BR one was painted with a mix of Humbrol 113 (rust) and 27003 (metal cote gunmetal). I might give it a very light dust with some powders, will see how it looks once dry. It's been ages since I've done any painting/weathering like this, quite enjoyed myself. I took this photo of some scrap rail recently to help with getting the colours that I wanted.
  • Create New...