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  1. I had a go at printing a boiler last year and also got a step at the front of the smokebox which coincided with the front wall. I had modelled it as a simple cylinder and the end walls had sharp internal corners. I found the solution was to put a generous fillet on the inside. I think what was happening was the step change in section was causing slight distortion when lifting off the FEP so the fillet introduced a gradual transition. Mark
  2. The brickwork is painted and I had added some etched parts. Still more work to do. Mark
  3. Thanks for your help. I will use 0.8mm which is nearly always under size slightly so that will allow for paint. Mark Humphrys
  4. Does anybody know the correct diameter of the stays on the front of a 43xx. The 4mm Mitchell kit suggests using 0.9mm wire but eyeballing this looks too thick scaling at 2.7” diameter. Thanks in anticipation Mark Humphrys
  5. Mark

    New Hornby Rocket

    I don’t have any dimensions but is it possible this model is to 3.5mm scale to keep the proportions looking right? Mark
  6. Mark

    New Hornby Rocket

    This crossed my mind too, but have they had to compromise the basic dimensions to fit between 00 wheels? The firebox and boiler might have been narrowed to fit so it might look odd in P4. Mark
  7. Brassmasters do some which are very good Mark
  8. I have never seen Brass Washout plugs so I have just looked and found the following heritage railways document that specifically rules out the use of brass. Where did you find they were made of brass? mark
  9. Mark

    MRJ 275

    I asked why WHSmiths put MRJ on the top shelf the last time. They didn’t provide me with a brown paper bag to disguise my purchase! mark
  10. You should have a longer axle for the middle wheels with top hat bearings supplied in the kit and not pinpoint. The middle axle should slide through the top hat bearing and this should give you clearance. 3’ radius is a bit tight though. You Might have to remove some material from the well immediately behind the middle wheels for clearance. These kits are designed for Wider gauges where there is plenty of clearance behind the wheels and it is possible that the inner clearance limits the 00 curve radius as much as the outer clearance limits the wider gauges. Mark Humphrys
  11. I use Rhino 3D for my cadds models. The basic structure was created as a solid shell 0.6 mm smaller on each side to allow the bricks to be booleaned on afterwards with a 0.3 mm overhang to allow some depth between bricks for mortar. I did an experiment using 0.15 mm deep on a chimney stack first in the picture below. unfortunately the brickwork is English bond and close examination of the building has required a lot of effort to position bricks to obtain the right position of openings. This means that layers which are predominantly stretchers have the occasional header along the length. I don’t think this can be automated. i have also started to paint the main structure now. Regards Mark Humphrys
  12. I have had a go at printing the water tower for Brent. The base and tank are separate parts. I have etches to use as overlays on the tanks so the slots are provided for clearing tabs on some details to fit to the etches. The tank had distorted during the build and was slightly too short so is being done again. I used a 0.2mm gap between the bricks a layer thickness of 0.02mm and an exposure time of 7.5 seconds to try and minimise light bleed. The building was grown perpendicular to the build plate. Scale is 4mm:1ft Regards Mark Humphrys
  13. Has anybody tried to install the latest Photon S slicing software? It has a number of upgrades the most useful being able to divide the print area into 8 different Build zones which can have different build settings. So you can try 8 different settings simultaneously to optimise your model. I have installed the software successfully on a Windows 10 lap top but the software fails to start when I try to run it. Anybody got any ideas? Thanks in anticipation. Mark Humphrys
  14. Quick question. Hopefully without causing too much consternation! Is this coach being built in contemporary form? If not the electrification warning flashes are too modern. Regards Mark Humphrys
  15. How about drawing a right angle triangle. For the base draw a line 300mm long which is equivalent to 30’ in 10mm scale. On the vertical axis draw a line 210mm long which represents 30’ in 7mm scale. Draw a line linking the end of both lines (The hypotenuse of the triangle). You could divide the 7mm line into 30 7mm increments and the 10mm line into 30 increments of 10mm. So all you have to do then is look for the size on your 10mm line that you want to convert and then draw a vertical line which intersects the hypotenuse. At this point draw a horizontal line and it should intersect the 7mm scale axis at the equivalent 7mm scale of your 10mm dimension. So for example 100mm on the 10mm scale should come out at 70mm on you 7mm scale. You can do the same in reverse to convert the other way. Regards Mark Humphrys
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