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  1. Gibson does bushes for reducing the bore of coupling rods to suit their crank pins. However the Ultrascale drop in conversion will have crank pins with an outside diameter to suit the RTR rods. Mark
  2. If you are scratch building the chassis is the easy bit in terms of forming shapes. You might buy in wheels, coupling rods and brake hangers but beyond that you are not constrained. I scratch built a GW Hall and tender several years ago and I learnt a lot from it which I have been apply to other projects subsequently. The key is having a good source of information. I would be wary of Roche though. There are lots of mistakes in the locos I have looked at in the past. I can’t comment about the M7 but be aware. Mark
  3. Thanks for the comments. I am not sure I have the appetite to strip and redo it and being red/green colourblind I would probably still not get it quite right. I could lay some thin orange washes over the top which might help give some better variation between panels. But it might not be too successful putting light over darker base. I bought a maroon Hornby version to practice with so I can use that as a trial to see if it works. Regards Mark
  4. I have had a go at applying teak to the model using the methods described by Mike Trice. I used precision for the base coat and then fine detail liquin and Vandyke Brown for the top coat. Far from perfect but I am quite pleased with the results. Mark
  5. I think I have done as much as I can on this now. I have done quite a few jobs detailing the buffer beam and the roof is now screwed in place. Next step will be painting! Mark
  6. Thanks to everyone who helped with this. The picture below is my interpretation of the emergency coupling. Mark Humphrys
  7. I use a set of broaches for opening under sized slots. As long as they are through etched just push the broach through and gently rotate it and it will work it’s way along the slot. This puts minimal force on the metal so you don’t risk distorting it. for soldering cleanliness is critical but if your solder clumped up it suggest you don’t have enough heat. You could tin the parts first but if the bolster is white metal and you are soldering it to brass then try Carr’s 100 degree solder which bonds to both materials. If you apply the heat to the brass and let the solder flow round t
  8. I usually use a brass brush 1 inch wide and 4 inches long and lay the brass on a hard flat surface and clean the whole sheet before I remove anything. The beauty of that is you can get rid all dirt, remove any dents or other damage and don’t scratch the surface. It also works very well for removing any curvature in the brass. I always like to solder on clean brass which is a lot easier in my experience than trying to solder tarnished brass. The flux will burn through but it needs more dwell time and heat before the solder starts to flow. Mark
  9. So maybe it is the emergency 3 link coupling stowed with a cover plate. Mark
  10. Only from pictures in Michael Harris’s LNER coaches book which I can’t post here. There is a good view at the top of page 17. Mark
  11. I am building an MJT Gresley Brake Composite and am wondering if anyone can explain what the large casting is between the steam pipe and the adjacent buffer. It appears to have a hook or handle on it so is it for winching? Any help gratefully received. Mark Humphrys
  12. Mark

    Class 59 in 00

    I would be a bit dubious about smoke. It will doubtless leave some residue on surfaces and it could ruin your structures and scenery if it ends up forming a sticky residue. Unless it leaves a convincing weathered look I will steer well clear of it. Mark
  13. Hobby holidays do a range of micro tubes in both brass and Nickel Silver. I bought some earlier this summer. Very quick delivery. Mark
  14. I have now fitted a set of Markits buffers. I have modified them by adding some bolts and I also reduced the width slightly. Here are some pictures of them on the coach. The steam pipe and vacuum pipe are home made and are balanced in position for the pictures. Mark
  15. Here are some pictures of a Hornby composite I have been messing around with. I have designed a series of etched parts for it including working corridor connections, door handles, fully sprung bogies and end steps as well as a host of other things. Mark
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