artizen

Windbracing? Does this mean you need to get a blower vac and test it for wind strength as well as a weight test? In answer to your reply to my photo of the Ron factor - the bridge is quite small as it is for a 1:24 scale Gn15 layout I am building called The Steamy Pudding. Once I finish the photographic plank for my range of 7/8ths scale rolling stock, I will be hopefully getting back to The Steamy Pudding. Not sure if that sort of layout would go down too well on the layouts section of rmweb though!

The new machine must make these sorts of jobs a real breeze now! Being able to design, cut and build a complete train roof in a couple of days must be a revelation. My attempt at the Ron factor -

Not someone else who designs in Quark! I have just finished designing 18 pieces of rolling stock in 7/8ths scale - all done in Quark 9.5.1 (because I am still getting my head around Quark 10).

And a damn fine train set you have too!

Know all about meds that make you feel sick and tired. Bored with being sick and tired now! You should be proud - your methods of multi-layering has reached the depths of Brisbane in Australia. I have just designed a bridge for one of my layouts that needs five layers to create the curved span next to the tracks and three layers to create each under arch. A large plastic bag of laser cut parts that make up into a much more complicated and accurate model than I would have ever achieved using my usual methods. I really must do all this in a CAD programme though - inaccuracies come into the cutting when some of the lines are inside the box (my choice) and some are created straddling the outline (designing with bezier curves), etc.

I am sure I had an email from Stephen Sherwood (now deleted) stating the event on Saturday had been put back to another day. Maybe a phone call to be sure?

For a minute there I thought you had laid the skylights the wrong way round!

I use this method all the time as it is part of my job description! I also peel back the backing material about the same amount but then smooth from the "dry" end to the top corner at the "sticky" end first. That way you can check the alignment is still good to go before getting in too deep. Follow by smoothing down the rest of the initial small area by wiping vertically across the strip from the "dry" end back to the "sticky" end. This way the initial grab is perfect without creases or bubbles. After that, it's Slow Eddie up to the point where the backing material is longer than the top layer. Then it all becomes way more easier as you can hold the backing material with one hand and lift the remainder of the job up off the surface as you quietly wipe down the "sticky" area moving towards the "dry" area. Most people I know are right handed so you naturally seem to use the right hand to wipe down and the left hand to hold the backing. I have had to wipe down large adhesive vinyl signs up to 1200mm wide by 4 metres long. If you get a bubble in the vinyl surface, just pop it with a small sharp pin to allow the air to escape. You will find that the vinyl will "rest" down onto the surface without any more work. The more you work at a bubble, the worse it will get. As most railway backscenes are way too low (I prefer backscenes at around 500-600m high that hide any distraction beyond the model) this should be a quick and very easy way to add a superb improvement to the overall look of the scene. Remember, not only you look at the model, most non-modellers react more favourably to a realistic scene - it seems to give it more credence.

Do the boards tilt up for all this to happen without going completely crazy? Let me know if you run out of rocker switches!

I read recently about a similar problem with spoked wheels. The author glued the spokes down on a flat piece of plastic and then cut to final shape. After adding the rim, he then cut away the fillets between the spokes to reveal the wheel. An idea for next time?

Two tiny little niggles from me. (Although I really like what you have done.) (1) Would the pipes be that long? Only a crane could lift each one at that length. (2) Wouldn't the paint be a protective coating to resist rust from wet earth when buried? Or does cast iron resist rust really well?

You know - that Google Maps photo looks just like the real layout! Just read the comment about working curtains. You could rig them up with a string and pulley to a simple servo arm. There are plans on the web on how to wire it all up so it works in both directions. Complicated though. I am sure you will think of something simpler. Perhaps a variation on the wire in tube to push / pull them from side to side?

You've just given me ideas for downpipes in 1:12 scale (garden railways). Thanks for the photos - really hard to do enough photos and actually build the item as well. Much appreciated.

As a disciple of Ansel Adams, may I suggest reading some of his books on photography? The basic concepts of gathering light through a series of lenses onto a recording surface hasn't changed at all, only in the digital age a collection of little ergs has replaced film. F8 and be there?

I actually quite like the Trainz version of this layout as well. I rate Much Murkle the five thumbs standard (which I haven't used for a while). :good: :good:

Really nice. Good to hear someone else has discovered the benefits of LED reels.

Back in the old days as a graphic designer on ancient technology, crashes were a normal daily occurrence. By the third go at any particular job, you were well into the groove and could do it in about a third of the time - almost no thinking involved. Here's hoping that the third major iteration of this wonderful model is the one that sees daylight as a finished job. You must be pleased with the way this current version is turning out - handlaid track always makes the layout look like a model of an actual location in my opinion (even when the bridge is a little freelance!). Keep up the good work - we're watching you!

The goods yard photo is sublime. The muted colours, the rippled backdrop and the clouds gives it the impression of impending rain thumping down on a cool summer's day. Nice.

Nicely atmospheric shots when enlarged Gilbert! (Of course I had to, you told me to!)

I can't believe a cheap craft cutter can cut that cleanly and accurately and all in a relatively tiny scale as well. Access to technology like this has revolutionised the way we think and work. I doubt very much if the brass etchings would have yielded a substantially better result and at least the cutter gives you immediate, clean access so you can finesse the design as you go instead of spending money and waiting. Of course, once started with this, you realise that the only way forward is upwards in quality!!!!! More power to your elbow - or is that your plotter/cutter. This build only gets better.

As far as I know from experience here locally, the varnish wash is expensive but you use it sparingly and it will go a long way. The wargamers swear by it and they paint armies in the hundreds of figures at a time. There are three strengths according to the result you need but a double dip might also do that. The stuff is basically varnish with a black ink or wash added at the factory. No doubt worth trying to make your own soup and trying it out. I have found out why I can§t use punctuation = my Mac is using a Czech keyboard... time to restart after the power went out earlier i feel.

Base painting and washing - http://www.thearmypainter.com/videogallery.php?videoid=2 Action starts at about 1:00 or so. Love the flick onto the floor technique to remove the excess!

"I honestly thought that nobody would be interested in it." Laugh! This layout must be good for another 100,000 views I reckon.

Fluoro tubes give the most even light spread but be careful about colour balance. Another alternative is high power LED strips running off a 12V transformer (then you can dictate the colour you want to see). http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/16FT-5M-12V-Flexible-300-LED-5050-SMD-Strip-Light-White-Car-Light-7-/200790213077?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec00781d5#ht_3694wt_1141

The real thing was shiny!!!!!!!!!