Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1,172 Excellent


Profile Information

  • Location
    Last of the Summer Wine territory
  • Interests
    '00' 4mm early 50's to late 60's

Recent Profile Visitors

1,710 profile views
  1. I managed to get the livery coat on yesterday, but the colour hasn't come out well in the photographs as I took the pictures too late in the day. I think the roof joints are too pronounced so it will be interesting to see how the Cellotape version works out. I need to get the glazing in next and then some weathering to tone it down a bit.
  2. I got some paint onto the roof yesterday and the roof joints don't look bad at all, not as prominent as I thought they would be. I'll paint the ends black and the sides in maroon and see if it still looks O.K. I had a message from the etchers today saying they had a backlog of work so it could be a while before this project comes to final fruition. When I get the next test build done I'll try making the strips with Cellotape as mentioned above so I can compare it to this one. Ian
  3. I got a coat of primer onto the model yesterday and I think the roof joint strips are too prominent. With hindsight (a wonderful thing) I should have stuck with my original idea and used cellotape and simply gone over it with a marker pen first to make it visible on the aluminium roof to aid alignment. I'll try that on the next one I make. I'll finalise the drawings over the next day or two and get them off to the etchers. Once I get them back I'll do a build to make sure everything is O.K. before I contact everyone on the list with an update. Ian
  4. I have fitted the rain strips and the roof joint strips. The latter were quite difficult to do and very tedious, I'll have to see what they look like when they are painted. I noticed when I was measuring up for the roof strips that I had fitted the roof vent at the wrong spacing so I removed them all, re-drilled the holes and refitted them at the correct spacing. I held the rain strips in place with elastic bands till I got them glued down. I decided to use black electrical tape to make the roof strips so I could see what I was doing, cellotape was difficult to see on the aluminium roof. I'll have to try to get some of the Comet tape for the next one. I've spaced the roof joints at a scale three feet which is what it looked like scaling it from the few photos I have but if anybody has more precise information on the spacing dimension, please let me know. I'll try to get a coat of Primer on it next as that always shows up any imperfections. Ian
  5. I've tried to copy the top covers from the photo on Steve Banks site. They don't affect the movement of the bellows, it works perfectly and it's the same method I used on the Siphon G's which have never given any trouble on the layout. However, the choice is in the hands of the builder, the component is a separate piece so if you don't want it, simply leave it off. A drop of filler or solder will soon hide the small slots it fits into. I will however make the slots a little bit longer so that the position can be adjusted to get it right up to the roof line. I copied the roof end from the two drawings I had, kindly supplied by Jonathan Wealleans and neither of them show the vent at the centre of the bowed roof end but when I looked more closely at the photograph as a result of the above posts I have noticed that on this van at least, the centre vent is present so I will need to re-instate the ones I have filed off. I will add the thin roof joints once I get the rain strips in place. I don't have any of the Comet strip suggested by Jonathan so I'll try sticking some Cellotape to a piece of glass and cut some thin strips with a scalpel. I have also noticed that there is a roof joint line on the bow end which is just visible in the photo above which goes down to the corridor connection cover. Ian
  6. The roof vents are now in place. I have also fitted the corridor connector cover. I've made the corridor connector bellows from black paper, I'll add the file for that to the Instructions disc so anybody who wants it can print one off. The end plate needs a piece of 0.9mm wire soldered to it which fits through the hole on the van end and the matching hole in the bellows which is easily made with a 2mm drill in a pin chuck. I haven't fixed it in place yet, I'll do that when it is painted. It is best attached with double sided tape which also keeps it lined up. A washer soldered or glued to the wire on the inside of the body will retain the wire in place and determine how far forward the bellows projects. Ideally you want the end plate on the vehicle to just touch the one on the adjacent vehicle. That way you don't end up with the tendency for one to push the other off the track on reverse curves. Next job is the rain strips. These will need to be glued on as you obviously can't solder brass to aluminium. That's tomorrows job, VE day celebrations permitting !!! Ian
  7. I got the roof fitted and did a bit more on the underframe. The castings for the ends which come from MJT need modification as the various protrusions on the castings are not required for the D45 version. The next problem is that the MJT castings don't match the profile of the MJT roof. A bit of Hornby filler and some emery paper soon rectifies the issue. Since I took this photo I've added more filler as I wasn't happy with the profile. I have also now added the Dynamo and a representation of the drive belt as well as a piece of 0.45mm wire to represent the brake rodding. I've also fitted the MJT buffers. Note the fact that the shank is offset to the fixing bolts and they are therefore 'handed'. I've never seen this before, I wonder if it is peculiar to the LNER. I'll try to finish the filler on the roof ends and the roof torpedo vents tomorrow. Ian
  8. Brake gear, buffer beam overlay, handrails and door handles now in place. The handrails are a bit timetaking to fit but not difficult. I have put a handrail jig on the corner of the fret which makes it easy to mass produce (you only need four of each type at most) the main ones. The little support pieces fit through from the back of the side and you need a delicate touch with the iron to fix them in place but the alternative is handrail knobs and they would be far too big for this job. This is how they are fixed on the inside face. I find this method of fixing much easier than trying to fit a short straight piece of wire. It's a good way of using up the little scrap bits that usually get thrown away as well. I'll probably fit the roof tomorrow. Ian
  9. Bogies, battery boxes and guards footsteps now done. Next job is the Vac cylinders and brake parts. I need to finish the bufferbeams next then I can get on with the mass of handrails on the van sides. Ian
  10. I don’t think it will be that long Paul, they usually only wait a couple of months!!!! Ian
  11. You know me Mike, I usually have a couple of projects in the pipeline. :-) Ian
  12. If you wait a little while you can have an etched metal one. Here is a photo of the first set of test etches, I just need some time to build it. Ian
  13. I added the solebars and the overlays today, I had hoped to get a lot more done, but the 'trouble and strife' had other ideas !! I then fitted the 0.45mm wire along the bottom edge of the solebar to replicate the bulbous edge shown in the photos earlier in the thread. It is easy enough to fit and fix by soldering along the underside of the solebar but frankly on this model I think it is probably a waste of time as it is barely visible and once the full length footsteps are in place you can hardly see it anyway. No doubt the perfectionists will want to fit it so I will add it to the instructions I have been writing. I think I will try to get the bogies assembled tomorrow. Ian
  14. I got the rest of the main body structure assembled today, here are the Bow Ends I made a start on the chassis and folded up the floor but I'm not happy with the fit, it goes into place but it is too tight for my liking so I think I will modify the drawing to rectify that. I was in conversation with 'Headstock' of this forum by pm yesterday and discovered that these vans don't have a lower lip to the solebar, they have a bulbous shaped profile instead, here are a couple of pictures he has sent me showing the shape. In order to accommodate this I have modified the solebars for this model by removing the lip. Once I get it assembled I'll solder a length of wire, probably 0.45mm along the bottom of the solebar overlay to replicate it. As I am going to modify the brass etch anyway to rectify the floor issue it isn't a problem to alter the solebars. This will mean it will take a bit longer before I can supply everybody who has asked for one of these vans as I'll have to have a new tool made and check it is correct. I'll do a bit more tomorrow on the floor and post more pictures. Ian
  15. I made a start on the bodywork yesterday and the basic body shell is now assembled. I fitted the overlays with the RSU as this is the easiest way to do it. Fitting the overlays is the most difficult part of this model, so once that is done the rest is very straightforward. The dimples in the middle of the double doors are the bump stops which were pressed out with the rivet punch. There are matching bump stops on the n.s. overlay alongside each door produced in the same way. The partitions with the hinges attached look O.K. and make assembling the body easier I'll make a start on the 'Bow Ends' today as once they are fitted the main bodyshell is complete and I can start on the chassis then. Ian
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.